1986 TRX350 questions

[handirifle]

OK so I got an 86 Fourtrax TRX350 4x4 for a decent price. I paid $850 for it, when the seller said it was kick start only. I got elec start going in short order so its value jumped pretty quick. Plus it was a bucket of rust when I got it, and literally painted 3 different colors and they all looked bad. Stripped it down to factory red. Also in the slow mode of searching out the few pieces of plastic it is missing, but that is not a big deal.

Just recently on a ride with the wife on hers and some neighbors, I had the RF wheel bearing overheat. I have pulled those and waiting on parts, but noticed the ball joint on the top right needs attention. I will do both front wheel bearings.

I have looked and cannot find a source that lists any NEW ones for my quad, but I am wondering, hoping someone will know if other years of the same quad will fit. I have read there were some changes made in 1987 so I am unsure.

Anyone have any ideas?

I would like to add zerk fittings to the old joints if I cannot replace them. Has anyone ever done this? The top right ball joint came apart, but I think it will press back in OK, with new grease of course.

I realize the old bikes like this one are getting parts scarce, but would like to get it as close to completely new in the front as possible. It runs great and everything else works fine.

Here is a picture of it after I cleaned it up

Its missing the triangular side panels and the rear tool box, but like I said no biggie on those at this point. Sellers want an arm and a leg for them.

 

[Sysop]

Not that this will be a sure fire help or not, but I'd get the measurements of the ball joint. I had a Lincoln, that for many years the only source for ball joints was the OEM, which were only sold as an entire control arm assembly, and at a very expensive price. Come to find out later that all along, Moog had a set that worked fine in it; they just weren't listed as compatible in their system therefore wouldn't cross reference on a part lookup. The measurements to look at were the diameter of the housing that presses into the control arm, and the diameter of the threaded part of the stud on the ball. I'm pretty sure that Lincoln used a 19mm housing with a 13mm stud on the ball; a few minutes work on a press and you saved 90% over the OEM solution and had something that solved a continually repeating failure. One user over at lincolnvscadillac.com simply did the research, tried it, reported success, and hundreds of users started installing the Moog ball joints. Moog finally updated their compatibility list to include that Lincoln on that part...

 

[handirifle]

That was what I had in mind. Imfortunately I just left Harbor Freight. Why? I don't have a metric caliper. Grrrr

Ok next trip.

 

[PILOON]

Also owned a 86 Fourtrax TRX350 4x4 , nice ride and possibly the best of the best.
As to the triangle side panels, forget them. I visited some 5-6 local scrappers and those simply do not survive.
I had some PVC sheeting, about correct gauge , and simply fabricated some.

PS, good price, I sold mine for $1000. but it was 'top shape'. I simply did not use it enough to justify keeping it and annual plating + insurance.

In my area if we get caught on a public road it gets costly and trail memberships are ridiculously priced for those few times.

 

[handirifle]

Weird never register them. Always on private land, ours and neighbors. Most around here dont even have titles. Usually it it runs a 4x4 will get $1500 minimum.

I hear ya on the plastic. I have thought of making my own too, if I bother with them at all. The tool boxes are reasonable and it keeps the battery covered, so I might get one of those.

Gotta get the front end fixed first.

 

[gclark]

If you haven't already, check with bikebandit.com they may have the ball joints you are looking for.

 

[handirifle]

No luck there.

 

[tjkubota93]

Wow, I couldn't believe it, but they are nowhere to be found on the web.
Looks like you will have to find something that will match your old part like sys op said.
Or make some more common ones fit.

 

[handirifle]

Yea I am going to try to put the original back together but will measure first. Then wil try to source SOMETHING that will work. Been wondering if newer ones migh be made to fit.

 

[tjkubota93]

A friend had one of those a while ago. I thought they were popular (at least popular enough for replacement parts to be made)

 

[handirifle]

I suppose 31 years is longer than they expect them to live

 

[dfkrug]

I suppose 31 years is longer than they expect them to live

There are plenty of quads from the 80s that are still running fine. My '86 Bayou 300 is a good
example, tho I restored it. Also the '86 TRX250 Fourtrax I bought years ago is owned by a friend
and still runs fine.

I am not sure what ball joint you are referring to, but I have subbed them before. Note that
the front end of a 4x4 TRX350 Fourtrax/Fourtrax Foreman is kinda unique and unusual with
the solid (straight) front axle. If it is the axle ball joint, you have a challenge. Steering
ball joint should be substitutable or adapted with some custom work.

In Norcal, any good condition name-brand 4x4 utility ATV with title should bring $2500 and up. 4x2
utility, you can get a good one for under $2K.

I believe all new ATVs sold in CA now come with titles. Registration is still optional, but
required if you go thru the DMV process to have a title created for you for an ATV that
is not in their system. BTDT

 

[handirifle]

OK an update on this one. They are not ball joints, they are called knuckle joints. Turns out they were in good shape, just needed to be repacked, which I did. One of the guys here gave me a link for a pdf manual, so I even got them set according to the book. Steering is nice now, seems easier too, probably cause they have grease in them now :thumbsup:. Funny how that works.

It runs fine, but when it's cold most times it needs a shot of starting fluid. I still have to check valve adjustment, plug gap, then I will try filling with premium gas to see if that helps. If none of that does I guess it will be time to look at the carb. Me and carbs do not always see eye to eye. Sometime I get them right, sometimes not.

Once it has been started and warmed for 30 seconds or so, it runs fine and restarts easily, unless it sits long enough to cool down.

 

[dfkrug]

Clean the carb jets. Easy, after you get it out. Sitting for a long time with
E10 gas in there does bad things. Often, the float bowl is green inside.

 

[handirifle]

Yea will have to have a look. I always run sea foam through them when I first get them. That always helps.

 

[bspeedy]

Valve clearances too tight may make it hard to start from cold, also. Easy to check / adjust.

Carb is, indeed, the most likely suspect. Check the pilot jet carefully. Plug gap too.