1964 Ford 2000 No Spark

   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark #1  

Homestead Blue

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2015
Messages
75
Location
Cleveland, TN
Tractor
1964 Ford 2000
Hey guys,

I'm having trouble. I drive out in a field to do some work no problem. Went to start it up to head back to the barn and it wouldn't fire. Starter cranked and the motor turned over, but wouldn't start. I checked my plug wires and they were shot. I got new wires, plugs, and a distributor cap. Put it all back together, wouldn't fire.

So now I need a few things. One is a wiring schematic, I can not find mine that I built the wiring harness off of 4 years ago. Second, what is the process for checking for power through the system. Last, what's the process for setting the points and getting TDC etc to get the distributor timed right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark
  • Thread Starter
#2  
I'll give it a shot. Unfortunately it's 20 miles away at my farm. There's rumors we might get ordered to shelter in place tonight. Hopefully I'll be able to travel back and forth claiming "agricultural" reasons.
 
   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark
  • Thread Starter
#3  
If I end up changing out points, do you know what the gap should be?
 
   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark #4  
If I end up changing out points, do you know what the gap should be?

.025.
I have the same tractor. Let
Me Know if I can help.
As the previous poster said, don’t screw with the timing if it ran getting to where it was.
 
   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks! The distributor cap was pretty roached out. I just bought the kit that came with the guts. So I guess I'm going to replace the condenser and points. Also, do you know what degrees need to be in the window?
 
   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark #6  
Thanks! The distributor cap was pretty roached out. I just bought the kit that came with the guts. So I guess I'm going to replace the condenser and points. Also, do you know what degrees need to be in the window?

Not sure of what you mean by degrees in the window unless you’re talking about the dwell angle.

If you still have the 6 volt positive ground system from the factory ( I converted mine to 12 volt negative),
Then the wire going into the distributor will read 6-8 volts with your test meter leads with the POSITIVE on ground and the NEGATIVE on the wire end inside the distributor.
This reverses with a 12 volt negative grounded system.

Also. This is excellent information with schematic posted by previous poster for trouble shooting.

If you messed with the plug wires.

The plug wires rotation will go in the same direction as the way the distributor rotor turns when engine is cranked over.

Firing order is 1243.

There is a small little window by the hydraulic pump where you can see the timing mark.
Bump starter till mark lines up in window.
Where rotor points at that time is number one(actually a little bit before).
 
   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I'm sure I got the wires back right. The degrees I was talking about are for the timing. From what I understand I have to bump the starter until it's so many degrees from Top Dead Center.
 
   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark #8  
I'm sure I got the wires back right. The degrees I was talking about are for the timing. From what I understand I have to bump the starter until it's so many degrees from Top Dead Center.

8 degrees btdc will be real close.
 
   / 1964 Ford 2000 No Spark
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Ok, thanks! Pouring rain here, so it won't be today unfortunately.
 

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