1963 Ford 2000 wiring questions

[Jimmike44]

I have several things going on with this 2000 that I bought this year, but I want to address some wiring questions to begin with (for now!). I will try to keep this as short as possible.

The tractor was running just fine (not great, but fine), then it sat for a few weeks while I couldn't play with it. I went out to just to crank it up and it would not start. The starter sounded like it was trying, but it wouldn't fire. After several attempts to crank, the starter actually got STUCK on, even after removing the key! After running to get a wrench to disconnect the battery, the starter finally stopped on it's own.

I thought maybe it wasn't getting gas, needed plugs/wires, etc. (I had planned to rebuild the tractor over time anyway, I mean hey, it was a $600 purchase .

I pulled the gas tank off, I will be cleaning the rust out, lining the tank, and then painting it at some point. I put a temporary gas tank back in place with the fuel line running directly to the carburetor, and bypassing an in-line filter that I thought may have contributed to the issue.

After hooking the battery back up, I tried turning the key, and all I could hear was a clicking noise from the starter solenoid, and that didn't even happen every time I turned the key.

I purchased a solenoid from Yesterday's Tractors that appeared to be very similar to the "original", 2 big posts and 2 smaller posts.

I tried to hook up the new one like the old one, but they aren't EXACTLY the same. The original had the positive cable from the battery going to a big post, which ALSO had a small white wire from the ignition attached to the same big post.

The other big post went to the starter. And there was a small black wire that went to a small post on the solenoid.

SO, with all that being said, my FIRST question, how the heck should this solenoid be wired, because the starter still won't do anything, and I need to know if the starter itself is bad or not?


Secondly, I'm curious about so many wires coming from the ignition itself. I ask this because the replacement ignition that Yesterday's Tractors sells only has 2 wires on it. Here are the 5 coming from my switch:

1. Black wire (with tape on it) running to the coil

2. Black wire running to the solenoid

3. Dirty white wire (holding in my hand in the picture) was originally double mounted with the positive battery cable on the solenoid.

4. Clean white goes to alternator

5. Red goes to volt gauge on my non-existent "dashboard"

I would GREATLY appreciate any help getting all this wiring correct and my tractor running again!

Thanks!
Mike

 

[gimmodog]

can't tell you just how your tractor should be wired but I can tell you how a solenoid like your new one is normally wired.

4 post
1 large post to battery
1 large post to starter
1 small post to ground
1 small post to whatever is going to trigger the starter--could be ignition switch or a momentary push button. Something that will energize the solenoid.

I cannot help with your ignition wires. I know nothing about this model of tractor

 

[jaxs]

To begin with,$600 tractors around here doesn't include an engine or rear tires and seller doesn't know what shape the final drive is in. And now you say yours doesn't start.:laughing: There are 2 common types plus 1 uncommon type solenoids with 2 small posts. We will assume yours is one of the common types. On both types,one post should have an I and other should have an S by them. For now,we will not be using I. The difference is in the S post. You will need a test light or volt meter to find which yours is and at the same time make sure large posts are wired correct. Until we know large posts are wired right,remove wire from small post and tape it up out of the way. Look closely for markings on/near large posts that indicate which is battery and which is starter. When the large posts have correct cables on them,install black wire on small post marked S. Let us know if starter works and we will go from there. Answer a couple of questions before going back to check those things. Do you own a multimeter and are you familiar with using a multimeter?

 

[Jimmike44]

Oh I know I got a steal! I will look tomorrow, but I don't think the solenoid has any markings next to the posts. I do have a multimeter, but by no means an expert with it. Thanks for responding
Mike

 

[Jimmike44]

And that's $600 with a Ford Loader on it! But no sheet metal...

 

[jaxs]

And that's $600 with a Ford Loader on it! But no sheet metal...

You better hope the guy you got it from can't id you.

 

[Jimmike44]

So, no markings on ANY of the posts of the solenoid...

 

[radios1]

And that's $600 with a Ford Loader on it! But no sheet metal...

I'd check the serial number to see if it's stolen!..

 

[Jimmike44]

It's not stolen. Any constructive advice on my issues would be greatly appreciated.

 

[radios1]

explain the first and second pictures, is the first picture of the solenoid the replacement for the solenoid on the second picture?. one thing is, the solenoid on the first picture needs a wire that gets power in the ignition crank position, +12V on a small terminal, it also needs a ground wire for the second small terminal, and the dirty white wire looks like it's for the alternator, which needs to go to the battery terminal on the solenoid.. if everything is done as stated, the solenoid will be energized, you'll hear a click, as the solenoid makes the connection from the battery to the starter, and the starter should turn..