1720 won't start - should try to bypass key switch?

BarnieTrk · Oct 1, 2016

1989 FORD 1720, 3200hrs. It's been stored inside, on concrete, dry, critter-free. It was ran last maybe two-three months ago. I've got 12.6V at the battery and all seems intact without corrosion. I turn the key and all I get is a dim parking brake light on the dash........ no clicking, nothing else... I've checked the PTO lever, it seems in its proper place. F/R lever in centered. Gear shift is in neutral. Clutch is pushed in and I'm seating on the seat.

I'm guessing it may be a bad key switch? Can someone tell me how to jumper or bypass the key switch?

Advice please....... Thanks in advance, Guys.....

BarnieTrk

BarnieTrk · Oct 1, 2016

I've been reading here.....with the key in the ON position, if I short across the two large posts at the exposed end of the starter solenoid, shouldn't it crank over?

Where do I locate and test the "neutral reed switch" connection?
Where do I locate and test the "seat switch"?
How about the same for the "safety relay"?

I will locate the fuse panel cover (below dash @ left knee area) & remove it looking for any "issues"......

BarnieTrk

chopped · Oct 1, 2016

Not sure if it helps but mine did the similiar thing years back. I found a corroded terminal at the starter.... I also have mine inside etc. I would check it out and then try jumping the solinoid and see if that helps.

BarnieTrk · Oct 2, 2016

Thanks, Chopped, for the reply! That is on my to-do list tomorrow.... remove each connection at the solenoid, clean and replace.... repeat.

I was also thinking the starter might be hung up, but if that was the only thing, I'd think the dash would still light up...... ?

BarnieTrk

Walt H · Oct 2, 2016

I would remove the cables from the battery and clean them first. Dim light on 'key on' sounds like corroded terminals to me.

kirkawilson · Oct 2, 2016

Also remove and clean the 'ground' connection to the chassis. You should hear the fuel solenoid valve 'click' when you turn ignition switch to 'On'. Then, if you jump the battery connection post on the starter to the solenoid terminal (can use a long screwdriver, or equal, off of the tractor), the starter should engage and the tractor will likely start immediately. WARNING: MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS OUT OF GEAR AND BRAKES LOCKED BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS, or we might be reading about your accident tomorrow. If the tractor starts, there is a problem in your wiring harness...maybe neutral safety switches, or ignition switch. Wiring problems on these tractors are 'boogers' (can I say 'booger' on this forum?).

RickB · Oct 2, 2016

Bad battery cable connection. Clean all 4 points of contact

flyerdan · Oct 2, 2016

+1 more on the battery connections. Just because they're not fuzzy with corrosion doesn't mean that there isn't a ring of black porcelain-like contaminant that wicked up from the post acting like an insulator between it and the cable end. As also stated, don't discount the grounds, they can give you fits if they're not clean and tight.

BarnieTrk · Oct 2, 2016

Fellas,
I removed the both battery cables at the battery, the other end of the (+) cable at the solenoid and the other end of the (-) cable end at the frame rail kinda below the battery tray. None seemed bad, but cleaned them anyway. No change.

Although my VOM says my battery is 12.6V, I think I'm going to put a charger on it anyway.

If I removed the negative (-) cable at the battery and set my VOM on 20DCV scale between the battery cable and the battery (-) post, I should NOT see anything, correct?

If I get something on the VOM, then there is a short or battery drain, correct?

I have quite a time understanding electrical systems and how to troubleshoot them.....so please, any guidance is VERY appreciated!

Thanks in Advance, Guys!

BarnieTrk

kirkawilson · Oct 2, 2016

It's a little scary the first time you do it because it will throw sparks when you make the connection, but the best way to troubleshoot your starter is to SAFELY 'short' the battery cable post to the solenoid post with the ignition key on (as I described above), and if your starter engages (which it likely will) then you know your problem is somewhere in the wiring harness. Then, start with the neutral safety switches and work from there.