1720 Block Heater placement?

[BarnieTrk]

Hi Guys!
Here's the deal: I was hoping to remove my starter from my new-to-me 1720 to see about smearing a dab of neverseize on the starter's gear drive assembly, as I believe it is hanging up periodically and not engaging every time I turn the key.

My 1720 has a block heater installed in the place of a "soft plug" in the engine block. However, it is located in the soft plug directly behind the starter.

In order to remove the starter, it appears as though I'll have to drain the coolant and remove the soft plug, since it appears as though it sticks out enough that it will prevent the starter from pulling out of the bellhousing opening. I will already have the coolant drained, so that won't be an issue. I could then install a standard soft plug in the opening behind the starter and not have to deal with the block heater in the future when I want to remove the starter again........

So, my question is: Does anyone know of any reason why I could not relocate the block heater to a different soft plug on the block?

BarnieTrk :steeringwheel:

 

[PILOON]

What engine is installed? might it be a Mitsubishi? if so the heater could go behind the oil filter as it is on my K3- engine.
Actually any frost plug would do as long as the cavity will accept the heater, problem is you don't want to go about pulling all the plugs just to find out.

 

[RickB]

You should try removing the starter before messing with the block heater. You might be surprised.

 

[BarnieTrk]

THANKS FOR THE REPLYS, FELLAS!! :drink:

PILOON,
My '89 Ford 1720 has the Shibaura 1.5L 3-cyl diesel engine in it.

RickB,
Yeah, I will try removing the starter first without pulling the block heater,,,, it just looks like it'll be in the way from the angle I'm looking at it. Maybe it'll snake on out of there without a problem.......

Thanks again, Guys!

BarnieTrk :steeringwheel:

 

[kirkawilson]

My 1998 1920 starter has been 'problematic' for months. The solenoid would click but the starter would not engage. Learned from other TBN'ers that these starters require full 12V to engage. Aged wiring/connections throughout the tractor caused loses that were nearly impossible to troubleshoot. I did replace the starter, but the new one eventually behaved the same as the OEM. After many attempted wiring repairs, my latest install seems to be the most dependable. Put a push-button starter switch on the dash that shunts directly from the starter battery post to the starter solenoid (much safer than the dual-screwdriver-touch technique I was doing for a while). Now I turn on ignition switch to open fuel solenoid and push the button...wah-lah...starts every time.

Just saying that your starter problems might be electrical instead of mechanical. Might save you some time to check voltage on starter before pulling. Must be a STRONG 12V to engage starter.

Good luck!

 

[BarnieTrk]

kirkawilson,

Thanks for the suggestions & experiences with your 1920 starter.

If I am understanding you correctly, the STRONG 12V should be measured WHEN KEY IS TURNED & STARTER IS CRANKING, correct?

BarnieTrk

 

[kirkawilson]

That's right, Barnie Trk. Unplug the small spade connector wire from the starter solenoid and check voltage from the starter battery post to that small spade- solenoid wire while the ignition key is turned to 'start'. The spade-solenoid circuit has many safety switches and connectors that must be good before a STRONG 12V is passed to the starter solenoid. These switches and connectors tend to wear/age/corrode and cause problems. Also, I failed to mention that my push-button start fix bypasses all of these safety switches (neutral, etc.) and must be used with EXTRA CAUTION when starting. I would prefer to keep the safeties in the start circuit but even if they are working properly, my entire wiring harness has multiple modifications from the previous owner that I cannot troubleshoot.

 

[BarnieTrk]

kirkawilson,

Ok, thanks for the detailed explanation. I think I follow ya.


Well, before I can perform this test, though, I need to get the thing to run longer than 5 minutes!

(see my http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...7472-fuel-stalling-problem-help-new-post.html thread)

But I will come back to this......

BarnieTrk