1710 Ford cold weather start

[Hobo Dewey]

My cold weather start assist stopped working. I checked the glow plugs with an ohm meter, and they test good. Voltage at the glow plugs is only 2 volts. Voltage to the glowing resister wire on the dash is also 2 volts. This resister no longer glows but I suspect it is because of low current. Does anyone know if the current flows direcrly from the ignition switch to this resister or does it have a relay that transfers current to the resister?
Thanks,
D from Michigan

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Check the voltage at the ign. switch. If you do a search for glow plugs in the NH forum one of the posts had a schematic for a 1700 which should be the same as yours.
Bill

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Here is the link http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/131986-ford-1700-start-aid-quit.html
Bill

 

[mostly_gas]

If it is the same as the 1700 then I would look at the ignition switch. I had to replace mine when the tractor was 29yo because it was very intermittent.

 

[RickB]

Could also be the resistive indicator coil. The indicator coil is also part of the glowplug power circuit. If the coil fails open, the only time power is applied to the glowplugs is when the key switch is in the crank position, when the indicator is bypassed and the glowplugs are powered directly from a different post on the key switch.

 

[Hobo Dewey]

If it is the same as the 1700 then I would look at the ignition switch. I had to replace mine when the tractor was 29yo because it was very intermittent.

Where did you find the ignition switch? I can't find it online and I really didn't want to order it from the New Holland dealer because of the high prices they charge.

 

[Soundguy]

you can always go echlin.. but I would like the oem switch myself.

soundguy

 

[RickB]

Where did you find the ignition switch? I can't find it online and I really didn't want to order it from the New Holland dealer because of the high prices they charge.

The highest priced parts you can buy are the ones purchased before any troubleshooting is done.

 

[Hobo Dewey]

The highest priced parts you can buy are the ones purchased before any troubleshooting is done.

12 volts into switch. 2 to 8 volts out depending on what day I check it. Zero amps out unless my amp meter is defective. I did find a replacement switch for $40 plus shipping but opted for the OEM from the New Holland dealer, $85 plus tax. Didn't want the hassle of dealing with a company by mail if the switch didn't fit. Switch is to arrive at the dealer tomorrow morning.

 

[Soundguy]

I think you made a good choice. the oem switch is a no hassle deal. sure you can use a non oem one and / or relay's.. but then you are adding some custom wireing to the machine which may make it harder to troubleshoot the next time a mechanic has to look at it..

soundguy

 

[Hobo Dewey]

12 volts into switch. 2 to 8 volts out depending on what day I check it. Zero amps out unless my amp meter is defective. I did find a replacement switch for $40 plus shipping but opted for the OEM from the New Holland dealer, $85 plus tax. Didn't want the hassle of dealing with a company by mail if the switch didn't fit. Switch is to arrive at the dealer tomorrow morning.

New OEM switch installed. Problem solved. Hope this switch lasts as long as the original, 27 years this past summer! If anyone is interested, here is the site where I found a non-OEM switch for $42. Ford Tractors Parts: Electrical Parts || Weaver's Compact Tractor Parts & Compact Tractor Salvage
I decided to use the OEM switch even though it was much more expensive mostly because I could actually compare it to my old one before making the purchase. Thanks to everyone for your comments.