1510D Thermostat?

[dieselgeek]

Guys -

My little 1510D runs COLD. I have installed a temp gauge, and if I am mowing WOT for a good 10-15 minutes, it'll run between 130 and 160F coolant temp.

I don't see a Thermostat in the parts breakout on Hoye's site (which is the most awesome support page ever!)...

Is there a way to adapt a thermostat to this tractor so that it'll warm up during lightly-loaded tasks? I know from experience, a cold running diesel will wear out the ring seal quicker, and I want to be able to do short hop tasks like pulling the wagon around, or push snow in the winter, but still give the engine a chance to run in a proper operating temp.


Suggestions? is there a version of this engine with a thermostat / recirc setup?

-scott

 

[HoyeTractor]

The YM186 (the us version of the 1510) has a thermostat & I don't see any reason why you could not convert it to that style if you really wanted to. I think maybe just the water pump back plate & maybe different hoses would do it. There have been quite a few posts about adding a thermostat & I think the general consensus is that they probably don't need one though.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/116772-yanmar-thermostat.html?highlight=THERMOSTAT

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/68285-cool-water-temp-too-cool.html?highlight=THERMOSTAT

Hoye's site (which is the most awesome support page ever!)...

Thanks!


Aaron
Parts@HoyeTractor.com
(940)592-0181

 

[dieselgeek]

Based on my experience with designing diesel engine management systems, and the design of the combustion chambers in my little prechamber tractor, i *wholeheartedly* believe it needs help maintaining a higher operating temp.


Apaprently Yanmar felt the same way, our winters are probably a little more cold than those in Japan!


I'll be in touch soon for parts to try this out Aaron!

thanks,

-scott

 

[MJPetersen]

Scott,

I have thought about this also. If you do this could you make a list of ALL the parts that are necessary and give me an idea of the cost. I cannot get the parts here, but I do return to the States once in a while for a short time. It seems to me that unless you are working it like they were designed to be worked--rototiller and PTO RPM for hour after hour--that they just would not get warm enough. This past winter I actually put a piece of a pizza box where the screen is.

Also Would you post a bit about your temp gauge install. I am curious--lights make me nervous.

Mike

 

[RobJ]

Based on my experience with designing diesel engine management systems, and the design of the combustion chambers in my little prechamber tractor, i *wholeheartedly* believe it needs help maintaining a higher operating temp.


Apaprently Yanmar felt the same way, our winters are probably a little more cold than those in Japan!


I'll be in touch soon for parts to try this out Aaron!

thanks,

-scott

I think parts of Japan get plenty of snow...never been there though.

When the thermostat went out in my Kubota I was surprised to find a 160 degree thermostat. I replaced it with the same. On cool days and light work it will not reach 160, but it runs fine. It's a 3 cylinder 26hp diesel.

Good Luck,
Rob

 

[dieselgeek]

Scott,

I have thought about this also. If you do this could you make a list of ALL the parts that are necessary and give me an idea of the cost. I cannot get the parts here, but I do return to the States once in a while for a short time. It seems to me that unless you are working it like they were designed to be worked--rototiller and PTO RPM for hour after hour--that they just would not get warm enough. This past winter I actually put a piece of a pizza box where the screen is.

Also Would you post a bit about your temp gauge install. I am curious--lights make me nervous.

Mike

heck, the temp gauge install took all of 20 minutes? What I did was, I moved the headlight switch down on the lower panel (near the decomp lever and ign. switch), simply drilled a hole there in a good location. Make sure it's "low" enough so it clears what's behind the panel. Oh and I removed the horn button since I have no horn anymore, but that wasn't really necessary. Then I bought a hole saw bit and drilled two holes diagonally in the dash (they BARELY fit), encompassing the old light switch hole, and the gauges were very easy to mount up. It's not Chip Foose quality but it sure opened my eyes to the operating temp on the tractor. I used the smallest Sunpro gauges (come in a 3 pack: voltmeter, oil pres and coolant temp) that were available at the local Autozone. Same as everyone else here is doing.

I picked up the metric adapter kit there too. Simply remove the old coolant temp sensor (for the dash light) and thread in the adapter and probe for the Sunpro gauges. At first I thought the gauge was broken, so I bought ANOTHER three-pack of gauges (figured my other mower needed a voltmeter and oil pres. gauge), but found the new gauge also wouldn't register above 120 deg. most of the time. This was during spring when I was only towing fallen trees, pushing some dirt around, etc.

I heated the temp gauge's probe (with the probe removed from the engine) with a lighter and it zinged right up to higher temps, so I knew the gauge wasn't broken. Sure enough, when I finally started mowing in the spring, WOT with a little bit of load brought it right up to 160ish degrees (on cold days, as low as 135-140 indicated temp). I am not expecting these gauges to be super accurate but they give a good idea what's going on.

I noticed a difference in how the engine starts after it'd been heated up a couple times too. I'd swear the oil actually got cleaner looking, but that could be my imagination. The tractor seems to like being run warm, and like I said - I know what cold diesels do to ring seal, it kills compression quickly.


I'll keep you posted on the thermostat progress, but it might be a few weeks - I am currently resurrecting my Scag ZTR mower with a busted electric PTO clutch, the 1510D is handling the mowing chores fine - albeit at 1/3 the pace of the ZTR!

-scott

 

[rock2610D]

not sure of the size of your engine but the JD 650's thru 1050's had thermostats..

My 2610D has the same engine that a JD 850 (3T80) has and all I think would have to be done is to purchase a water pump mounting adapter plate thingie that has a thermostat. Our Grays lack a thermostat on the adapter plate thingie..

Parts I would need...From John Deere

CH15536 THERMOSTAT

M801316 HOUSING

CH11797 COVER

CH19841 VALVE

And some gaskets and stuff...

 

[YM-135trac]

A sissor fit card board with a few punched holes btw the screen and rad. gets mine to a nice temp

Remove in hot summer.

 

[MJPetersen]

Thanks Scott. I will have to go to the parts store and see what they have--Autozone, Napa, etc are a long ways away. My advantage will be that they will probably already be metric!!

A sissor fit card board with a few punched holes btw the screen and rad. gets mine to a nice temp Remove in hot summer.

Yes I would do that as it is MUCH less expensive--but not more convenient, except with a light I do not have confidence that I know what is going on well enough. I really do want to put on some gauges so that I can do such things with confidence.

Mike

 

[California]

I wonder if the Japanese farmer just blocks part of the radiator with cardboard. The grays generally arrive over here in good condition after 20 years of whatever the Japanese do with them, so they must be doing something right. I'm not convinced these need a conversion to thermostats and gauges to adapt for US use.

My (US) Yanmar was used in a riding stable for its first 10-15 years, hardly intensive use. Then apparently semi-retired, and fired up occasionally when the loader was needed. Per the comments above you would think it would be long dead. It's not; I don't see any of the claimed detrimental effects. It doesn't have a thermostat.

In my opinion, just verify the warning lights occasionally. (The manual says each 100 hours). That's all Yanmar intended the owner to do.