11hp Briggs & Stratton Rebuild

Big Al · May 2, 2007

So how big of a job is it to rebuild an older (mid-80s) B&S engine?

My $130 Snapper likes to leak oil, so a rebuild is in order. I might just try and only replace seals instead of a full rebuild to get it through the season.

Any thoughts or experience?

DieselPower · May 2, 2007

It's not that hard. Buy a engine service manual for starters. If you have never done one before give it a good read over. You will probably also need a flywheel puller. Other than that it's a fairly easy job, at least it is for me.

slowrev · May 2, 2007

Al, is it a cast iron sleeve engine ? If aluminum bore, just get another one.

Ben

Fordlords · May 3, 2007

Most of the '80's vintage Briggs engines were just Nikasil bore throwaways. If the crankshaft seals are leaking, it's probably not even worth the bother of taking it apart to replace them. The Snapper is an easy rider to retrofit just about any vertical shaft engine on to that has the same crankshaft diameter and width, I'd go that route at the end of the season, and just keep filling the old engine with oil until then. A little bit of Bar's engine oil stop leak will lessen or stop the leaks too.

-Fordlords-

Big Al · May 3, 2007

Thanks for the advice. I will try the Bar's engine oil stopleak.

A new engine is only $350 from SEW, although the replacement would be a Tecumseh, which I'm not overly thrilled about. I think that would make a nice winter project.

Now to do something about the oil stains on the driveway...

slowrev · May 3, 2007

If it is cast iron bore it should say I/C on the cover.

Kyle_in_Tex · May 7, 2007

I'm interested in doing the same thing only mine is 10HP. I think it is aluminum bore but not sure. I can't tell you how hard of a life this engine has endured. We used to NOT have tractors. It still runs but knocks and is a bit low on power.

The manual says to hone the bore out .010" to get the oversize piston to fit. If it is nikasil lined, the hone won't be able to touch it (hardness). You can't bore nikasil either, you just put a fresh piston in if the bore is not scarred or cracked. I'll look to see if I/C is on it. It is pretty old and the stickers are long gone. I thought that I/C meant internal combustion??

I've seen online rebuild OEM kits for about $70 less the rod which is about another $25-30

I was thinking about it more for the experience than keeping it for the long haul. I'll probably sell it as I have a new mower.

Big Al · May 7, 2007

Kyle_in_Tex said:
I'm interested in doing the same thing only mine is 10HP. I think it is aluminum bore but not sure. I can't tell you how hard of a life this engine has endured. We used to NOT have tractors. It still runs but knocks and is a bit low on power.

I've seen online rebuild OEM kits for about $70 less the rod which is about another $25-30

I was thinking about it more for the experience than keeping it for the long haul. I'll probably sell it as I have a new mower.

You got me to thinking -- why isn't a nikasil engine worth rebuilding? Assuming the cylinder & piston are in good shape, I'm really just looking at seals & (maybe) bearings. I don't need this to last forever -- ideally a few years and then I would swap in a fresh engine.

Where were you finding the rebuild kits online? I might check those out.

Ah well, this is all moot right now, as I can't tear down the engine right now since it's the mowing season and all..