1/4 hose for toplink

[puckgrinder85]

Anyone use 1/4 hose for a toplink over 3/8?" Im leaning to 1/4 for the size and minimal flow it will need, may be a bit of a restriction to slow down its movements. Anyone go this route with success?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Anyone use 1/4 hose for a toplink over 3/8?" Im leaning to 1/4 for the size and minimal flow it will need, may be a bit of a restriction to slow down its movements. Anyone go this route with success?

1/4" hose is fine, it will not slow the use down that it makes any difference. I think that us suppliers of these premade hose kits use 3/8" hose because it is tougher than the 1/4" and therefore we as suppliers have fewer problems using 3/8" vs 1/4". You may find that you still want to get some restrictors to slow the ram down even more.

 

[jmc]

I went with 1/4 and it still can move a little too fast. (That might have something to do with my 500 PSI piloted check valve, though.)

 

[J_J]

You can always add a needle valve and adjust it to your needs.

 

[kennyd]

I always recommend 1/4" or TnT setups and grapples. Cheaper, more flexible, easier to route=win, win, win.

 

[puckgrinder85]

Its not really a matter of cylinder speed, I just thought it might be a desirable side effect of going with the smaller hose. I just gotta make sure my supplier can go from 1/4 line to a -8 JIC fitting. If not i'll have to stick with the 3/8 hose.

 

[BAP]

Strength of the hose has more to do with the quality of the hose you use, than the size. Hose comes in 1 wire braid, 2 wire braid or 4 wire. The more wires the stronger it is. Cheap 1/4" hose tends to be 1 wire and 3/8 tends to be 2 wire. As long as you get 2 wire hose, the 1/4" will be as strong as the 3/8" hose.

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

Its not really a matter of cylinder speed, I just thought it might be a desirable side effect of going with the smaller hose. I just gotta make sure my supplier can go from 1/4 line to a -8 JIC fitting. If not i'll have to stick with the 3/8 hose.

That should not be a problem

 

[PILOON]

On a plow installation we found the lift/drop to be much too fast.
My solution was to install a male/female fitting that I welded shut and then bored a 3/32 hole thru the welded area.
Worked like a charm and cost, like $2.50 each!

 

[Xfaxman]

The restrictors for my 3 point backhoe were a small hole washer dropped in before the hose was screwed on.

 

[Threepoint]

The restrictors for my 3 point backhoe were a small hole washer dropped in before the hose was screwed on.

Very clever, Xfaxman. :thumbsup:

Any drawback to doing this, that anyone can think of? Might the washer affect the ability of the male fitting to seat fully? Any risk of deformation under the hydraulic pressure? Nickle plated washers or stainless steel? If I ever need flow restrictors, this solution seems like it would come in handy. But it's so simple it worries me!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The problem when using any type of flow restrictors on a high usage hydraulic cylinder is over heating the oil. So you need to be sure that when using restrictors, you have a large oil capacity or an oil cooler.

 

[TomSeller]

The main advantage of larger hoses on your front or rear remotes is when you are going to run hydraulic motors with the hoses. If you are just opening and closing hydraulic cylinders on a CUT or SCUT, you will be fine with 1/4"

 

[puckgrinder85]

Very clever, Xfaxman. :thumbsup:

Any drawback to doing this, that anyone can think of? Might the washer affect the ability of the male fitting to seat fully? Any risk of deformation under the hydraulic pressure? Nickle plated washers or stainless steel? If I ever need flow restrictors, this solution seems like it would come in handy. But it's so simple it worries me!

Instead of washers you can just plumb in a flow control valve. They aren't that expensive and you can dial it in exactly what you want. Running one little cylinder a few times isn't going to heat up the oil to worry about it. If you were running a motor constantly, yea, time to worry.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Instead of washers you can just plumb in a flow control valve. They aren't that expensive and you can dial it in exactly what you want. Running one little cylinder a few times isn't going to heat up the oil to worry about it. If you were running a motor constantly, yea, time to worry.

I would not call any back hoe cylinder other than the out riggers, only being used a few times. Yes typically T&T cylinders and implement cylinders are not a problem, but any unit that is getting a constant use for a period of time can become a problem if things are not properly allowed for.

 

[puckgrinder85]

Yes, my post was pertaining to the top link, hence why I said little cylinder with little movement.