Ford 5000 power steering issue, veers to the right.

[MinnesotaEric]

Ok, so something occurred to me this morning.

When I installed the valve’s cover plate, there was no “tension” from the spring.

What I’m wondering is if perhaps the centering spring was over compressed during rebuild and it being too short is allowing bypass. I think if I back off the threaded clevis end 1 turn or so, it should actuate properly. Easy enough to test I suppose.

Man am I glad I can work on the valve while it’s in the tractor… lol

I'm not familiar with your tractor's steering, but as you suspect, it sounds as though the spool valve isn't centering. Once disassembled, if the spool valve can move freely, then geek out and measure the length of the springs and their tension. Then order new springs anyway.

 

[AntiqueIron]

I'm not familiar with your tractor's steering, but as you suspect, it sounds as though the spool valve isn't centering. Once disassembled, if the spool valve can move freely, then geek out and measure the length of the springs and their tension. Then order new springs anyway.

Already looked into replacing it- I wondered if the spring was weak. Couldn’t find any available sadly.

It turns out that the tension on that spring makes an enormous difference- tightening it until it wouldn’t move anymore, steering veers right. I backed it off about a turn and it was forcing itself left hard. Tried it backed off a little and it worked fine. Think everything is functioning properly now

Definitely a good idea to measure end of coil to end of coil with calipers before disassembling the spring and packing stack. Ford doesn’t list one in the service manual, so whomever undertakes this should inspect and verify.

It has been heavily implied based on the NH parts breakdowns and the service manual that several subtle variations of the valve and cylinder were used, and I’d imagine the coil length changes accordingly.

Thank you all for your help! Here’s hoping LuAnn can get out and get some exercise again soon!

 

[AntiqueIron]

So test drive did not go well.

Steering leaks, pulls, and is all around not really working well.

I’m pretty much ready to get rid of everything power steering related and start from square one. It’s becoming clear to me, based on my reading, that these systems aren’t really worth refurbishing.

Was wondering if yall could help me ponder my options:

-Drop 2k on an aftermarket power steering column. Description of these says they are not for use with loaders so I’d have to junk the loader.

-Spend $90 on a one piece steering center and go to arm strong steering, with or without the loader

-Try one of those power steering cylinders that mounts to the drag link. I don’t know how practical these really are, or how well they hold up- they look cheap, for lack of a better way to put it.

I just really don’t want to keep chasing my tail with this power steering assembly. I want some sort of mechanical link to the front axle, but power assistance would be nice.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Everybody has their own ideas about what's "the best" option. You will no doubt get a few in short order.

No offense intended, but has anyone else besides yourself looked at the system to see what more improvements might be made? Just wondering. Lots of us have worked on those systems and I believe many (if not most) are pretty successful at it if enough stuff is repaired and/or replaced.

That said, I probably wouldn't go with an after market unit. Mainly because other than the type that bolts to the drag link I'm not aware of any that would work on a 5000, The drag link type has been too problematic in the few cases I've seen. Having never done it, I hesitate to say you can go full hydrostatic with enough modification, but honestly, that would be my first thought. A steering cylinder from a 10 series tractor could (probably) be mounted under there with at least some of the other parts from a donor tractor. I don't know that, having never tried. Same for the steering column and valve. Would that be less money than a used 5600 style power steering gearbox/column, I don't know, but I think it would be a better overall product in the end.

 

[AntiqueIron]

Everybody has their own ideas about what's "the best" option. You will no doubt get a few in short order.

No offense intended, but has anyone else besides yourself looked at the system to see what more improvements might be made? Just wondering. Lots of us have worked on those systems and I believe many (if not most) are pretty successful at it if enough stuff is repaired and/or replaced.

That said, I probably wouldn't go with an after market unit. Mainly because other than the type that bolts to the drag link I'm not aware of any that would work on a 5000, The drag link type has been too problematic in the few cases I've seen. Having never done it, I hesitate to say you can go full hydrostatic with enough modification, but honestly, that would be my first thought. A steering cylinder from a 10 series tractor could (probably) be mounted under there with at least some of the other parts from a donor tractor. I don't know that, having never tried. Same for the steering column and valve. Would that be less money than a used 5600 style power steering gearbox/column, I don't know, but I think it would be a better overall product in the end.

No offense taken, and yes I am the sole person who’s looked at it. I’m very reluctant to call new holland out or someone else because they’re going to have a tech with the same manual I have who probably doesn’t have too much experience with these either, charging me $100 an hour. I really wish I could speak to one of the ag mechanics who worked on these when they were the big kid on the block- I suspect most are no longer with us sadly.

I’m pretty sure the issue is that the valve spool centering spring is just a smidge too long end of coil to end of coil, IE under too little tension. I spent a full day messing around with it and if it’s too short, the tractor pulls right. Too long, steering pulls left. I thought it was centered because I had no drift at idle, however once I got the tractor reassembled and did a test drive the steering pulled to the left- you can hold it straight with a finger, but it is extremely irritating to drive like that for me.

It’s probably irrational- but I really have a strong distaste for full hydrostatic systems.

I steered a disabled 6405 John Deere down a snow covered road after dark while it was towed and all I had for steering was toe brakes. I want a mechanical link between the wheels and my hands so if something happens I can limp home. Blow a hose on a hydrostatic system and you’re done ski. Power assist and you can block off the lines and drive home Popeye style.

If I can find a used power steering column that wouldn’t break the bank, that would be my first choice.

I’m really growing tired of the existing system because of how finicky and difficult to service it is.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Point noted.

 

[AntiqueIron]

Looks like a tremendous amount of work to make the drag link type work. Think switching center arms over is probably the best way forward, and I can go from there as far as what type of steering.

 

[AntiqueIron]

Alexander’s has a remanufactured power assist column for $2300 and theres a USA made hydrostatic kit- a company called farmland tractor selling one with a column, orbital valve, lines, cylinder, mounts and everything. Looks like a bolt-in fit.

I’d probably need to have lines made for the reman column, because I have the earlier style pump.