Barndominium/Shop or "real" House?

[WinterDeere]

I like the PT lower plates on all that framing, but be aware that ACQ will eat uncoated nails faster than a fat kid eats cupcakes.

 

[ETD66SS]

So it's temporary?

Yes, it will stay on until after drywall at least.

 

[ETD66SS]

I like the PT lower plates on all that framing, but be aware that ACQ will eat uncoated nails faster than a fat kid eats cupcakes.

Damn, Unfortunately a bit late for that info.

 

[WinterDeere]

Damn, Unfortunately a bit late for that info.

Well, it's under compression, not sheer, so not critically loaded. Wall board will keep everything in position.

It's also out of the weather, so probably won't suffer corrosion nearly as fast as the fasteners I've seen rot out of decks.

There was a big fuss about this, maybe 20 years ago, when the lumber companies were forced to switch from CCA to ACQ type pressure treated lumber. And then all the expensive coated fasteners followed...

 

[ETD66SS]

Well, it's under compression, not sheer, so not critically loaded. Wall board will keep everything in position.

It's also out of the weather, so probably won't suffer corrosion nearly as fast as the fasteners I've seen rot out of decks.

There was a big fuss about this, maybe 20 years ago, when the lumber companies were forced to switch from CCA to ACQ type pressure treated lumber. And then all the expensive coated fasteners followed...

I'll probably get a box if galvanized and shoot two nails in each stud. It will work fine as most of those walls are 2x8, the 2x4 walls might not be a great idea as there could be splitting if I try to add more nails.

 

[EddieWalker]

Makes sense. Nobody makes a bigger mess then the sheetrock guys!!!

 

[pmsmechanic]

Plastic on top of the treads then 1/8 plywood stapled on top of that. It protects the treads while doing all the roughing work.

I really like this idea. It's a cheap way to save on having to clean up all that ground in dirt etc.

 

[ETD66SS]

Got the proper nails for the bottom of the studs into the treated plates. Also got the stairs fully secured to the opposite wall with Loctite glue & GRK screws. Stairs are very solid now. Not sure if I need temporary railings for the contractors (insurance etc).

I screwed 2x4's into the studs on each side to cover and protect the tops of the stingers. If someone drops a tool the plastic alone is not going to help the pine stringer underneath.

 

[WinterDeere]

I'm sure it was stated back around page 4 of this thread, but what's the intended use?

I also have a whitewood staircase in my 1775 carriage barn retrofit, and stained it all nice and pretty. But realizing its intended use was as a work shop, I haven't gone out of my way to protect it at all. It's getting a few scuffs here and there after 10 years of regular use, but it has held up a heck of a lot better than I anticipated. I never really looked that closely to determine species, but I suspect it's either birch or eastern white pine.

 

[ETD66SS]

I'm sure it was stated back around page 4 of this thread, but what's the intended use?

I also have a whitewood staircase in my 1775 carriage barn retrofit, and stained it all nice and pretty. But realizing its intended use was as a work shop, I haven't gone out of my way to protect it at all. It's getting a few scuffs here and there after 10 years of regular use, but it has held up a heck of a lot better than I anticipated. I never really looked that closely to determine species, but I suspect it's either birch or eastern white pine.

The stairs are to access the living space, which is only on the second level, above garage space.

I'm pretty sure these stairs are made from Southern Yellow Pine.