Ford 2000 3 cylinder diesel not firing

[rangerfredbob]

Got a cheap 2000 a couple weeks ago, tried to get it running and no fuel to the injectors so pulled the top off the injector pump (CAV rotary) and the kill valve was gummy and stuck in the off position so that's roughly where it is now other than I freed that up without taking it off. That said I primed the injector pump but fuel is only getting to 1 and 2 not 3 as of now but it's just a seep not a strong pulse like it should be.

What's the dumbest way to get this going so I can get some fresh fuel through the pump to clean it up? I've heard pull starting gets things going faster and can help...

I need to get the voltage regulator working better though, it's dragging the battery when connected (still has a generator) but I've done some research and haven't tried cleaning the contacts on it yet... a new regulator is cheap anyway...

 

[thepumpguysc]

U have to make sure that fuel is getting TO THE PUMP INLET..
THE DPA pump has 1 rotating member that feeds all the cylinders, so it’s not very common for it to feed 1 & 2 and not the 3rd one..
But if u had a low volume of fuel TO the pump, that could account for that problem..

Have u loosened the bleeder screw on the pump, by the name plate.??
Its a double screw.. 7/16 body with a 5/16 bleeder..
Loosen the 5/16 and spin the engine, fuel with no bubbles should shoot out a good couple of feet..

It probably has a 3pc filter setup.??
Change the filter..
Very important: the top oring GOES UP IN THE GROOVE IN THE FILTER HEAD..

Do u know about the filter screen in the tank.??
It’s made onto the shut off tap under the tank. It could be clogged..?? U could back blow the line with air to clear it.. BUT.. most of them leak so a better choice is to replace it..I just did one and it was less than 20.00.

 

[rangerfredbob]

The petcock/outlet screen was plugged and I did blow it out with air, replacing that is on the list after the thing proves itself... The fuel filter has been changed I think, I'll look again... the guy I got it from ran it in the fall but it had a misfire but with the petcock plugged you'd get that... was being hopeful at that point. The pump is flooded, I was next to my camper so I didn't crank it with the bleeder screw out but it's on the list, I had that screw out and there weren't any bubbles with gravity.

I'm assuming the #3 roller is gummed up or the check valve on the side plate is stuck, my brother has a 4100 that had both of those issues...

I was hoping that getting the vane pump on the inlet end of the pump moving faster might overpower the goo to get some fuel flowing. On that thought I wonder if the piston or screen under the inlet fitting are stuck/plugged...

Thanks

 

[5030]

Like the old well worn saying goes, once the satisfaction of a good deal is past and your wallet comes out, the thrill of a cheap deal vanishes. Why I buy new, always.

 

[rangerfredbob]

Meh, this is one of the least clapped out old Ford tractors of all between me and my brother... he's got two 4000's (one manual with a blown bearing between the input and output shaft and one select-o-speed that actually works and runs perfect), the 4100 mentioned above, 4600 with weak clutch and probably worn injector pump, a 7000 that works pretty good (the business end of the pump forgot the name of it is worn on #4 so that cylinder is weak), 8600 that needs a clutch and the injection pump that he bought over the winter put on and probably the hydraulic pump to fix the power shift, then a 9000 that needs the pump for the power shift fixed but works decent otherwise. I'm used to this engine family at this point, everything is available and they're dumb reliable and cheap since they're not green or orange... nearly everything mechanical is the same between all of those tractors, I think they have the same stroke and valvetrain, there's only a few different pistons and a few different bores but I think even all of the fuel injectors are interchangeable...

Once this is going it will work just fine, the problem is it spent like 20 years sitting at one point so the fuel system is gummy...

I paid $1500 for the tractor, $10 for a reseal kit for the injection pump, had a battery sitting around, if I have to buy a voltage regulator that's $35. At this point I have maybe 3 hours of labor working on it fixing the seat frame and dinking with the fuel system, I'll have under $2k in a 35hp tractor... a new 35hp tractor is like $25k...

 

[5030]

Bare tractor maybe.. Add a loader and I bet the price is north of that, plus you get the dreaded emissions junk.

 

[oldnslo]

That is quite the fleet of old blue iron. I do miss the simplicity of the 5000 & 5600 we had 40+ years ago.

 

[5030]

Pump Service guy in here offers a rebuild service FYI. You need to message him however.

 

[5030]

When they started the T4 emissions stuff, that's when I realized that my pre 4 Kubota's would be my last new units. They get excellent care and no emissions junk to fail. Will be my last tractors I ever buy. 2000 and 2002.