7' Tiller on a Smaller Tractor

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I wouldn't remove anything from it. If it's too big, sell it and buy the right size. You can find them used -- though this is NOT the best time of year to shop for used tillers. (It's a great time of year to sell yours though!)

I would think the perfect tiller for that tractor is 5'. You want the smallest tiller that will cover your rear wheel tracks. 6' would be pushing it, so you're about "2 sizes" too big, in my opinion.

You wouldn’t need the tiller to cover tracks if you space rows.
A 4’ tiller would make one pass between the tires
then space out your next row so the rear tire is just at the previously tilled row’s edge.
This also creates a work path between rows.

 

[GWagon]

I've inherited a 7' Tiller, but I have an RK25 tractor.
Would I be able to use this tiller if I removed 2 flanges on each side?

I think the RK25 PTO horsepower is 18? Should specify how much in your manual or on RK or TYM websites.

 

[CH4Ohio]

You wouldn’t need the tiller to cover tracks if you space rows.
A 4’ tiller would make one pass between the tires
then space out your next row so the rear tire is just at the previously tilled row’s edge.
This also creates a work path between rows.

This is the same old debate, but would you ever actually go buy a tiller that was not as wide as your rear wheels???

When the average person tills their garden, they expect to see a seedbed of tilled ground from edge-to-edge. The entire area. Tilled up. Not with untilled paths in the middle. Anyone paying to have their garden tilled expects it to all be tilled and smooth with NO tire tracks or paths left.

If you want to leave untilled areas, you can certainly do that with a properly sized tiller. Just move over.

On the other hand, with a narrow tiller on a wider tractor, there is NO WAY to leave an entire area tilled with no tire tracks.

So how does it make sense NOT to have the tiller a little wider than your tires? Seems silly to suggest that it's handy to have a too-small tiller. Worse than too big.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

This is the same old debate, but would you ever actually go buy a tiller that was not as wide as your rear wheels???

When the average person tills their garden, they expect to see a seedbed of tilled ground from edge-to-edge. The entire area. Tilled up. Not with untilled paths in the middle. Anyone paying to have their garden tilled expects it to all be tilled and smooth with NO tire tracks or paths left.

If you want to leave untilled areas, you can certainly do that with a properly sized tiller. Just move over.

On the other hand, with a narrow tiller on a wider tractor, there is NO WAY to leave an entire area tilled with no tire tracks.

So how does it make sense NOT to have the tiller a little wider than your tires? Seems silly to suggest that it's handy to have a too-small tiller. Worse than too big.

NOT true, offset the tiller to cover one tire and go the same direction for each pass with the tiller covering the tire track on that side.

SR

 

[big bubba]

believe the tail would wag the dog on this application. but never hurts to try.
attempting challenging tasks with under powered sub compacts is a common theme on this forum, good luck

 

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This is the same old debate, but would you ever actually go buy a tiller that was not as wide as your rear wheels???

When the average person tills their garden, they expect to see a seedbed of tilled ground from edge-to-edge. The entire area. Tilled up. Not with untilled paths in the middle. Anyone paying to have their garden tilled expects it to all be tilled and smooth with NO tire tracks or paths left.

If you want to leave untilled areas, you can certainly do that with a properly sized tiller. Just move over.

On the other hand, with a narrow tiller on a wider tractor, there is NO WAY to leave an entire area tilled with no tire tracks.

So how does it make sense NOT to have the tiller a little wider than your tires? Seems silly to suggest that it's handy to have a too-small tiller. Worse than too big.

Made sense for us where we planted bushes in rows and our harvest plantings were also in rows.
With pathways between beds, it made it much easier to access either side of the beds. All
we did was mow the grass paths between the planted rows and used these clippings that were blown onto the rows, as mulch. It also cut down on weeding. Worked out very nicely grasshopper.
Not everything planted necessitates a vast ,open expanse of tillage.
So that is one example where the tiller doesn’t have to be as wide as the tire track.

 

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believe the tail would wag the dog on this application. but never hurts to try.
attempting challenging tasks with under powered sub compacts is a common theme on this forum, good luck

I have seen where even 3’ wide tillers have compromised some scuts depending on the soil type and texture.
It still is amazing to me what can be done with a scut. Many punch above their weight class.

 

[Bert the Bard]

How many tines per flange?

SR

11 flanges.
6 tines per flange.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

It's going to take a bigger tractor to run that one.

SE

 

[jenkinsph]

It's going to take a bigger tractor to run that one.

SE

11 flanges.
6 tines per flange.

I agree with Rob and 84 " tiller with large 6 tine flanges will require more tractor, probably 40 pto hp as a minimum. Turning a tiller can load an engine down. If watch your temperature gauge over an hour you may overheat. That's with a 35 hp tractor and tiller.

I know nothing about your tractor but I recommend you get a tiller sized for your tractor. A 7' tiller is too big a scut.