A quality dealership with a good parts department would have touch-up paint in the blue, black, white and reddish brown right on the front counter!
/s>
Take some pictures as you go through the adjustment and post them here along with an explanation.
It will help others in the future.
Best of luck and don't be afraid to ask more questions.
It is probably a re-branded Jinma.
Check with Affordable tractors dot com or Circle G tractors dot com. They have parts and illustrations online.
The clutch may only need adjustment.
I don't think there is any way to tell what clutch it has by model and serial number. Their parts lists don't...
When I was in high school I helped my dad split an old Case VAC tractor to replace the main seal. That was quite an ordeal since we didn't have any decent shop equipment. Getting the engine out of a tractor with a frame should be a lot easier. Especially now 50 years later when I own an engine...
Yes, the cylinder with the red mounting strap is a 1000W tank heater. Will bring the head from -30F up to above freezing in about an hour. Real necessity here.
The banjo style ends are just crimped onto the hoses like any other hose end. Probably technically a 6mm fitting but will work just...
It doesn't take much pressure. I think the one I used was 4 to 7 psi.
If your fuel tank is higher than the filter and the IP, you can probably just get it to run without the pump. At least for some testing.
If you make a cover plate for the lift pump you can leave it connected, just tied up...
Good. I had looked but didn't find where I had taken a picture of the lift pump. It is in a box somewhere in the shop.
I never seem to throw something away just because it doesn't do the assigned task any longer. Never know what I might do with it in the future.
Or, it will just be the...
That is a different pump than mine but the basic structure is similar. They probably all are.
The o-ring I was referring to was on the the actuator shaft where it enters the lift pump body. It was the only thing that separated the fuel in the lift pump from the oil in the IP sump. The lift pump...
You could use an imperial cylinder with rod ends (eyes) that are as close to the metric ones you have, just make sure they are larger holes. Then make (or have made) custom bushings to reduce the size of the eyes down to fit the metric pins on the backhoe.
Converting the existing metric hoses...
Probably the easiest thing to do is pull all the injectors and take them to a diesel repair shop for testing. They can check the pressures, look for leaks and examine the spray pattern. They may need to know the make, model and year of the tractor and fuel injector pump.
As I understand it some...
Depending on what injector pump you have, it might be possible for a leak to get into the crankcase through the front timing gear housing.
Another possibility is an injector that is leaking and letting fuel wash down past the piston rings.
I can't think of any other places where diesel would get...
The top of my list to check would be the connections at the fuse box. I don't know about the 2014 models but my 2006 had female spade terminals crimped on the wires and stuffed into the fuse box from the back. The low quality terminals would loose tension and not make good contact with the fuse...
I suspect you are correct in thinking it is the sector box. To confirm, take the hoses off of the cylinder and put them into a bucket. Then turn the steering wheel back and forth. If it still feels clunky, it most likely needs a new box.
As far as I know there are no internal parts available...