Recent content by nyone

Typicaly all that outdoor cleaner stuff is just a strong bleach. You can also find it in the pool section called "chlorinating liquid"..for about 1/4 the cost.

Red rubber. I live in the rust belt, wash my vehicles and store my hose outside. This also goes for the OPs question. I believe I have 2 gates or goodyear red rubber hoses. Bought them from HD about 2019. Both live outside in NY and both still work great. 50' is about $35 now. I tried...

You could look at a parts breakdown for a voltage regulator. Then find what it looks like and go from there.

We bought my 4yr old a cheap metal detector for Christmas..best investment I have ever made into keeping air in my tires. I found everything from tools I didnt know I lost, nails (all kinds of nails) to window weights.

Fluid film or wool wax will wear right off first cut. It's also expensive for a one time use storage coating. Why not just flip the thing over, wire wheel the **** out of it and give it a proper paint job with proper paint and cure time?

looking at the one the OP posted the cross bars not having any diagonal support to help spread the load was my first concern. I dont have a LP but but I do have a box blade with scarifiers. I finish grade my driveway with it. Typicaly the scarifiers are just at the blade level so I just...

at one point my yard was so bad I would have to stock a spindle and blade. Until I bought a low end commercial ZTR. It's also got quick to adjust deck level settings. I have hit many things that stop my mower and still have the original spindles, bearings and blades.

I owned a gt5000 years ago with a 53in deck. It was gear drive and possibly the slowest mowing tractor I have ever owned. The blade tip speed was really slow causing you to have low ground speed. Gear drive sucks for mowing unless it's a open field. The carb is also terrible to get to on...

Dont buy a box store ZTR. A low end used commercial until would last you 20+yrs and cut your mowing time in half. In all reality most of the commercial ones are the same between manufacturers. So you really need to pick what engine and what series of drive motors you want.

More than likely it's just going to be wired like a standard 3 wire alternator. 12v battery, 12v ignition and charging light. Can you trace that one of the two smaller wires back to the ignition switch? It should be a switched 12v source there or at a relay.

It may be cheaper to find a tractor that alreaty has a loader on it. If you feel the need to keep the current one find the same model with a loader now you have a loader, all the parts needed and a parts machine.

Throwing parts at a problem is never good. Sounds like you have a internal leak some where.

Unless your driving surface never packs I think you will need scarifiers.

Kind of sounds like a restriction in the fuel line or filter housing. Can you see through your filter bowl? See any fuel movement or bubbles?

I'm with you here. 3 things don't fail all at the same time like this and re ringing a engine isnt a quick and easy job. I would be checking alot of other things before I just go ripping and tearing at the engine. Theres plenty of other cheap/free checks and adjustments you can do before...