Recent content by MoBill

I haven't tried that. I'll give it a try and see what happens. Thanks!

I have a 1958 Ford 641 with a charging problem. It still has the original 6 volt positive ground system and is still using a generator. I had a charging problem a while back that required me to jump the regulator to get the red dash light to go out and the generator to charge. Mysteriously...

No, I admit I didn't. I should have as I do understand how the solenoid works. I might have wasted $20 on the new solenoid. Since my last post, I found that a couple times I had the same starting problem. Reaching around behind the sheet metal and wiggling the wires on the back of the ignition...

Problem solved. Someone at some point wrapped a bunch of tape around the rubber boot and wires on the back of the switch forcing the contacts together. It looks like the contacts on the switch were barely touching and probably arcing slightly which was causing them to heat up. I took the switch...

Upon further investigation, I found the back of the ignition switch is warm. This leads me to believe there's a bad connection on the wire going to the "hot" side of the solenoid. Wiggling wires around on the back of the ignition switch solved the problem- temporarily. Tomorrows project is...

I have a 1958 Ford 641 Workmaster that's in really good shape. It has very low hours and was only ever used for mowing. Ever since I got it a few years ago, it's had starting issues. When I push the starter button, which is just a ground for the solenoid, it has always been hit or miss...

I think I might try another voltage regulator and see if that solves the problem. It's the simplest and least expensive thing to try.

Yes, it's positive ground.

John0829, You're absolutely right. I feel like an idiot. I'm writing about the 641 and thinking about my 3400, which does have a generator driven tach. Your post definitely simplifies things. Right now, I'm trying to decide if I should try another regulator and leave the 6 volt system intact, of...

I'll have to double check, but my recollection was that when the light is out, I'm getting about 7 volts at the battery. I don't think I've checked voltage when the charge light is lit. This all started when I got the tractor from the previous owner. When I originally got it, it had sat for a...

I've replaced the voltage regulator but the charge light still stays on when I start it unless I jump the terminals to polarize the generator. It's not a huge issue, but I'd just as soon not have to open the hood and reach in and jump the regulator every time I use the tractor. I've even thought...

I have a 1958 Ford 641 with original 6v system. The charging system is giving me fits. Every time I start it, I have to jump the voltage regulator terminals to get it to charge. I'm considering converting to 12v alternator system. I don't want to lose tach function. Suggestions?

I have a Ford 641 I recently got that has a strange oil issue. If the tractor sits for a couple days, the oil level will show full on the dipstick when it has the correct amount in it. After running the engine, it takes a couple days for the oil level to reach the full mark again. The only...

I've been looking for a loader tractor for a while and came across a MF 2135. I'm not familiar with that exact model but I used to run a MF 20 several years ago. Are they pretty much the same? According to what I can find on tractordata, they look very similar.