Repairing metal hydraulic line

[Pushrod_Paul]

One of the main metal hydraulic lines on my JD755 that run the length of the tractor above the drive shaft has a small hole wore through it (another story).

Instead of having to try and replace the entire line (I'm not even sure I can find a replacement for it) has anyone tried repairing a hole with MarineTex?
I know MarineTex is rated to 2300 PSI shear strength and 8,700 PSI compressive strength, so I'm thinking that may contain the leak.

Any other suggestions on repairing this type of leak without replacing the line?

Thanks in advance.

 

[psj12]

I don't think I would go with the adhesive. I would use a small piece of steel shaped to fit the exterior curvature of the tube and braze (with brass) the patch to the tube. I have done these same kinds of repairs to high pressure lines before and they work well.

 

[J_J]

You might read through these post and get some ideas.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/68293-brazing-hydraulic-line.html

 

[Soundguy]

glue? really? please... that's a problem waiting to happen.. again.. fast..


solder / braze it if it is a thin line.

at worst, I'd UNION it, depending on size and where it was at.

soundguy

One of the main metal hydraulic lines on my JD755 that run the length of the tractor above the drive shaft has a small hole wore through it (another story).

Instead of having to try and replace the entire line (I'm not even sure I can find a replacement for it) has anyone tried repairing a hole with MarineTex?
I know MarineTex is rated to 2300 PSI shear strength and 8,700 PSI compressive strength, so I'm thinking that may contain the leak.

Any other suggestions on repairing this type of leak without replacing the line?

Thanks in advance.

 

[DanD78]

If you can get the line off have it silver soldered. Same as brazing with a higher quality of material. Brazing will require the metal to be clean and free of oil.
The union idea that Sound Guy sugested would work if the hole is small or you can replace a short section of line.

Dan

 

[kennyd]

Is this the small pressure line or the larger return line? Have you checked John Deere for a replacement?

 

[Pushrod_Paul]

Is this the small pressure line or the larger return line? Have you checked John Deere for a replacement?

It looks to be about a quarter inch diameter line. There are two of them nearly side by side. The tractor is out at my families farm in West Virginia. We are in the process of putting up a barn when I get out there every other weekend or so. I was hoping to get a repair done on it en-situ until the barn is built and I can afford the time for the tractor to be down.

 

[Car Doc]

Forget the adhesives just put that out of your mind it isn't going to work that will be a waste of time waiting for it to dry etc and the second you start it will leak.

It needs welded either brazed or mig'd or tig'd to hold any pressure and getting it clean and oil free will be the biggest challenge, get it off the machine is my recommendation but from here that sounds easy hahaha! :thumbsup:

 

[N8ghz]

I'd forget splicing, because if you have the tools to make the flares, you might as well just make a complete new line.....being 1/4" or whatever it is.

Compression unions won't work on pressure lines, but may work on a return line.

A guy that is good with a TIG could fix it and silver-brazing would work too.
If you have any silver solder, I'd think you could do a 1/4" tube with a propane torch?

 

[Pushrod_Paul]

I'd forget splicing, because if you have the tools to make the flares, you might as well just make a complete new line.....being 1/4" or whatever it is.

Compression unions won't work on pressure lines, but may work on a return line.

A guy that is good with a TIG could fix it and silver-brazing would work too.
If you have any silver solder, I'd think you could do a 1/4" tube with a propane torch?

I have silver solder, flux and a propane torch. If I clean the outside really well, will brazing it work without removing the line?