Coolant flush procedure issue

[steve2]

flushing radiator for my 2013 M 7040. (1300 hrs) Block heats up almost overheating water and flush never released from radiator the hoses stayed cool while block just kept getting hotter. Turned off the motor drain block and radiator reinstalled 50% antifreeze. My first thought is before replacing thermostat buy a new radiator cap Thinking this is the least expensive option to start. please let me have some feedback about my approach. Should I just buy a new thermostat at the same time as the cap not sure how accessible thermostat is it’s crowded up in the front around the top of the radiator on this tractor.

 

[dusty3030]

When you say the block gets hot, how are you measuring the temp?
What does the temp gauge on the dash indicate?
It takes awhile to get a diesel that isn't under load to warm up and open up the thermostat. Infrared thermometer would be helpful for you to see what the temp actually is before you go to swapping parts.

Have you had some issues or are you just doing some preventative maintenance?

 

[steve2]

Thanks for quick response Dusty. —-preventive maintenance. The gauge was between the last and second from last lines below red “hot” lines and when working tractor thermostat releases typically between third and fourth lines below red hot line with gauge dropping to fourth line as normal operating temperature.

 

[dusty3030]

Sounds like you might have some air in there. You drained the old coolant already and are flushing with clean water and radiator flush if I'm reading correctly. When you drained it did you drain out the radiator and the block? There is a block drain just forward of the oil fill cap.

 

[steve2]

Sounds like you might have some air in there. You drained the old coolant already and are flushing with clean water and radiator flush if I'm reading correctly. When you drained it did you drain out the radiator and the block? There is a block drain just forward of the oil fill cap.

Uh

 

[steve2]

Yes drained radiator and block. Next Filled with water and drained radiator and block. next added flush and water filling until water came out top of radiator ran engine 2000 rpm fifteen minutes until temp gauge caused concern (see detail from original post) turned off waited a few minutes and as I was running out of time released pressure with 1/4 turn of cap which released fluid AND possibly air. Since Original post I called my local Kabota dealer. The new cap Is $54 new thermostat $66. Maybe before investing I should take it out run it to operating temperature watch what’s going on with the gauge? If thermostat releases all good. If not purchase new stat. Either way I’ll let it cool off open the cap and see if radiator is filled to top or if need to top off antifreeze. Overflow tank is filled already with new coolant mix. Thoughts?

 

[Chewwy]

It’s unlikey the radiator cap is your problem. If is is not leaking and the radiator and/or hoses have not blown due to overpressure, it is doing it’s job. You could remove the thermostat and see if that solves your block overheating issue, before buying a new one.

 

[RjCorazza]

Although I've never bothered, you can remove and test the thermostat in a pot of water and a thermometer. By the time it's removed you may as well just replace it.

 

[ruffdog]

Sounds like you might have some air in there.

I agree. Is there a vent in the system to bleed the air? Does it have a vented thermostat that prevents a pocket of air? I have drilled the 1/16" hole in many thermostats to prevent this. Many newer cars and motorcycles also have the bleed valve/screw. See article:

Air Venting

 

[RjCorazza]

I agree. Is there a vent in the system to bleed the air? Does it have a vented thermostat that prevents a pocket of air? I have drilled the 1/16" hole in many thermostats to prevent this. Many newer cars and motorcycles also have the bleed valve/screw. See article:

Air Venting

One of my wife's cars years ago had to be purged at the thermostat with a bleeder valve. Never seen one since though. Don't most thermostats have a small hole that allows coolant to trickle through when the thermostat is closed?

 

[ruffdog]

One of my wife's cars years ago had to be purged at the thermostat with a bleeder valve. Never seen one since though. Don't most thermostats have a small hole that allows coolant to trickle through when the thermostat is closed?

Some do have the bleed hole in the t-stat, but some don't. Being able to bleed the air out of the block quickly without having it over heat is a big plus.

 

[sixdogs]

Yes drained radiator and block. Next Filled with water and drained radiator and block. next added flush and water filling until water came out top of radiator ran engine 2000 rpm fifteen minutes until temp gauge caused concern (see detail from original post) turned off waited a few minutes and as I was running out of time released pressure with 1/4 turn of cap which released fluid AND possibly air. Since Original post I called my local Kabota dealer. The new cap Is $54 new thermostat $66. Maybe before investing I should take it out run it to operating temperature watch what’s going on with the gauge? If thermostat releases all good. If not purchase new stat. Either way I’ll let it cool off open the cap and see if radiator is filled to top or if need to top off antifreeze. Overflow tank is filled already with new coolant mix. Thoughts?

I run mine without a radiator cap--or just leave it loose--for a while after new anti-freeze so it can heat up some and get air out. I don't think trapped air happens much with Kubotas.

My M7040 takes forever to heat up so I put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to speed it up.

 

[5030]

Both my M's have expansion bottles. I renew the coolant every year, flush the system with straight water 2 times, drain it (via the lower radiator hose) and add new 50-50 green antifreeze, warm it up and check the level and top off with straight distilled water according to what my anti-freeze specific gravity gage tells me.

 

[JWR]

Yes drained radiator and block. Next Filled with water and drained radiator and block. next added flush and water filling until water came out top of radiator ran engine 2000 rpm fifteen minutes until temp gauge caused concern (see detail from original post) turned off waited a few minutes and as I was running out of time released pressure with 1/4 turn of cap which released fluid AND possibly air. Since Original post I called my local Kabota dealer. The new cap Is $54 new thermostat $66. Maybe before investing I should take it out run it to operating temperature watch what’s going on with the gauge? If thermostat releases all good. If not purchase new stat. Either way I’ll let it cool off open the cap and see if radiator is filled to top or if need to top off antifreeze. Overflow tank is filled already with new coolant mix. Thoughts?

Well first, the prices for rad cap and tstat are absurdly high. Just go on Amazon and buy a set for 1/3 that price. But do you have reason to think you need either one? If you had no known problems prior to all this just flush it the best you can (drain all via orifices noted above), replace the coolant with 50/50 and forget it. If you can find the capacity of the cooling system, then just put in half that much in full strength antifreeze and add water until it is full. Then run it a while, open back up and fill if it will take more. Essentially do what 5030 said in post #13. Once you are 100% sure the radiator fins are clean and open run it ( 20 or 30 minutes, go mow something) until it should be at stable operating temperature. The gage should show in the lower 1/3 of the range. Make it prove to you there is some problem, if any.

 

[MTGreen]

I had a BMW 3 series at one point that if you didn't get every last bit of air out of that system it would overheat. It had several air bleeding points and a complicated procedure you had to follow.
Figuring out that procedure in a parking lot after repairing a ruptured expansion tank miles from home after the POS stranded my ex wife for the 3rd time from 3 separate issues made that the very last BMW I will ever consider owning

 

[number two]

May not apply to OP,but for cooling system maintenance with no other issues requiring flushing-
Drain all you can and refill with 50/50 mix.
Freeze point will be maintained with minimal fuss.
Good Luck!

 

[5030]

Well first, the prices for rad cap and tstat are absurdly high. Just go on Amazon and buy a set for 1/3 that price. But do you have reason to think you need either one? If you had no known problems prior to all this just flush it the best you can (drain all via orifices noted above), replace the coolant with 50/50 and forget it. If you can find the capacity of the cooling system, then just put in half that much in full strength antifreeze and add water until it is full. Then run it a while, open back up and fill if it will take more. Essentially do what 5030 said in post #13. Once you are 100% sure the radiator fins are clean and open run it ( 20 or 30 minutes, go mow something) until it should be at stable operating temperature. The gage should show in the lower 1/3 of the range. Make it prove to you there is some problem, if any.

I use a Brix Refractometer to determine coolant concentration. Much more accurate than any 'floating ball' indicator and they are pretty cheap to buy as well. How I determine the flood coolant concentration for my machine tools.

 

[RjCorazza]

I use a Brix Refractometer to determine coolant concentration. Much more accurate than any 'floating ball' indicator and they are pretty cheap to buy as well. How I determine the flood coolant concentration for my machine tools.

I also prefer refractometers for coolant concentration measurements. They are not that expensive, and much more reliable and accurate.

 

[boatmoter]

flushing radiator for my 2013 M 7040. (1300 hrs) Block heats up almost overheating water and flush never released from radiator the hoses stayed cool while block just kept getting hotter. Turned off the motor drain block and radiator reinstalled 50% antifreeze. My first thought is before replacing thermostat buy a new radiator cap Thinking this is the least expensive option to start. please let me have some feedback about my approach. Should I just buy a new thermostat at the same time as the cap not sure how accessible thermostat is it’s crowded up in the front around the top of the radiator on this tractor.

Thermostat stuck or the water pump impellers have rusted off or the thermostat is installed upside down, (tip) pay a little more for a quality thermostat,thermostats are not as good as they used to be.stant used to be a great thermostat but Stant sold out to a company in ****** and is not longer quality and gives problems

 

[MTGreen]

Thermostat stuck or the water pump impellers have rusted off or the thermostat is installed upside down, (tip) pay a little more for a quality thermostat,thermostats are not as good as they used to be.stant used to be a great thermostat but Stant sold out to a company in ****** and is not longer quality and gives problems

Do you have a suggestion for who makes quality thermostats now?
I tend to stick with OEM or Motorad