Shred or Spray

[Aggie66]

We purchased a property 2 years ago that has 50 acres of wooded and creek area and 30 acres of areas that can be developed into a pasture. We are currently doing wildlife management, but I’m trying to decide on whether it’s worthwhile to develop some or all of the 30 acres into pasture. Preiously it was always used for grazing only and wasn’t hayed. With the spring rains that we’ve had one area of the pasture is pretty well grown up. It is various weeds and grasses that I’m gonna have to decide the best herbicide to use but what I would appreciate feedback on is should I go ahead and shred it first it’s pretty well 24 to 36 inches in some places high or should I just spray it. I just don’t have experience in trying to develop a grazed pasture into a hay pasture. I realize I should have done something back in April but that’s hindsight. I’d be receptive to anyone’s schedule on how they manage their pastures from Spring Green up to haying or how you do just weed management. Thanks

 

[jaxs]

There is no "one size fits all" way of establishing pasture or hay where desirable grass is already mixed with undesirable plants. If the land has net fence,alowing someone to run goats on it is a good start. Goats eat weeds and brush but very little grass. First question is whether there's any desirable grass amongest the hih weeds. Secound question is whether someone will bale it and take hay as payment. Contrary to what many believe,hay doesn't have to be weed free before someone will buy it. Too many unanswered questions to allow BEST answers to your questions.

 

[5030]

I use 2-4-D (B) for broadleaf weed control in my hayfields. It's not cheap but it works well.

 

[oldnslo]

Is what you are calling hay or pasture just grass or is there some alfalfa mixed in? If alfalfa you will need different weed control than grass.

 

[5030]

Actually, alfalfa is very tolerant to 2-4-D (B). it isn't to 2-4-D but the Buterac modifier makes it that way. Only one company that makes it too, I believe they have a patent on it and like I said, it's not cheap. Last jug I bought (2.5 gallons) was just north of 100 bucks, but the dilution ratio is 50-1 so it goes a long way and it don't take a lot either.

Has all the attributes of regular unbuffered 2-4-D but without the killing of alfalfa. It will slow the growth of fresh cut alfalfa for a short period however.

What he needs to do is call his local county extension agent for further information and keep in mind that in some areas, 2-4-D (B) requires a state applicators license. I spray it on growing alfalfa that is developing broadleaf.

 

[jaxs]

I use 2-4-D (B) for broadleaf weed control in my hayfields. It's not cheap but it works well.

I've used 2-4-d but not on stuff already 3 feet tall. I'm sure it will kill some things but then you have a bunch of dead junk shading ground that has to be mowed. Why not mow,see what you have then spray if need be. Like you said,it's expensive,why waste half of it wetting more foliage than required?

 

[Yander]

If you cut it too short your spray will not be affective and may not even work. Herbicides need some leaf surface in order for the plant to take in the chemical via the leaves. I would just spray it. You will have to use more chemical since you let it get that tall.

If you cut it down don't cut it to the ground. Leave some leaves to take in the chemical.

You could also cut it down and when it starts to re-establish and leaf out, spray it at maybe 12" tall.

 

[Aggie66]

Is what you are calling hay or pasture just grass or is there some alfalfa mixed in? If alfalfa you will need different weed control than grass.

It’s Bahia and coastal but has weed growth of croton black eyed Susan horse mint various grasses

 

[jyoutz]

It’s Bahia and coastal but has weed growth of croton black eyed Susan horse mint various grasses

If you have a good component of grasses and the weeds are annual, repeated mowing will convert the area back to grasses. Perennial weeds are a different story.

 

[5030]

If you cut it too short your spray will not be affective and may not even work.

Exactly. All herbicides are absorbed via the leaves. Don't matter what the invasive species is.

 

[jyoutz]

Exactly. All herbicides are absorbed via the leaves. Don't matter what the invasive species is.

True, but if the weeds are annual, herbicides are unnecessary. The key is preventing them from going to seed. Most perennial weeds may require herbicides to remove them. It’s important to know what species you are working with.

 

[5030]

Why I suggested contacting the local extension agent. Posting on here will net the OP little The local extension agent (who is familiar with the local invasive species) will not only identify them but suggest the correct course of action as well as chemicals.

 

[jyoutz]

Why I suggested contacting the local extension agent. Posting on here will net the OP little The local extension agent (who is familiar with the local invasive species) will not only identify them but suggest the correct course of action as well as chemicals.

Great advice.

 

[Aggie66]

Thank you all for your input. All comments welcomed and appreciated. Thanks again

 

[Southernspeed]

I’ve had paddocks like that , I cut them real short then in a couple of weeks when everything starts growing again I’ll spray grazeon ( or herbicide of your choice)

 

[Aggie66]

I’m shredding the past two days. Probably 2 more to go. Then spray on green up. Is Grazon preferable to glyphosate. I plan on using RM 43.

 

[Southernspeed]

RM43 is total vegetation killer isn’t it? Pretty sure that’s what I use on fence lines. GrazonNext will just kill broadleaf weeds. It’s newer version is called DuraCor ( DuraCon?? ) Works well but there are restrictions on hay and manure movement off farm as the active ingredient keeps working for 18 months passing through animals. Great for keeping weeds down in your pasture but a disaster if someone uses hay or manure on their vegetable patch or prize roses!!

 

[mo1]

There is no "one size fits all" way of establishing pasture or hay where desirable grass is already mixed with undesirable plants. If the land has net fence,alowing someone to run goats on it is a good start. Goats eat weeds and brush but very little grass. First question is whether there's any desirable grass amongest the hih weeds. Secound question is whether someone will bale it and take hay as payment. Contrary to what many believe,hay doesn't have to be weed free before someone will buy it. Too many unanswered questions to allow BEST answers to your questions.

Goats will eat most weeds and brush (they also do eat grass once the weeds and brush are gone, it's clover they won't really touch) but fences need to be very good to keep them in. They also don't eat a whole lot (3-5 pounds per head per day depending on size and such), it would take a lot of goats to clear off 30 acres. A "net fence" that would hold in goats would be a fence with the 4' tall 2"x4" or 4" 10/12 gauge woven wire, or the 4 gauge welded panels of the same hole size, topped with a strand of barb. That is not a cheap or particularly easy to install fence. They will break the 14 gauge wire, they will get their heads stuck in any fence with 6" holes (such as the field fence that costs less than half of what the 4" sheep-and-goat wire does), and they will get through barbed wire fences. Electric poly net may keep them in but I have seen too many livestock get out when an electric fence fails to trust an electric fence for anything besides internal fencing.

 

[SethWilliams]

I sprayed Duracor on hay and pasture ground for the first time this spring. $100 2.5 gallon jug covered 10 acres. It worked very well - cleaned up my hay - and has a residual value. I much prefer it to 2-4-D.

 

[SethWilliams]

Also, in regards to county extension agents, I agree about meeting and speaking to them. The main thing to keep in mind, at least in my area in TN, is that our county agents won’t recommend spraying. They can identify weeds all day long but not recommend what herbicide to spray due to regulations.