Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...

   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down... #11  
David,

Relief valve should only divert if there is a shock load on 3 point (hitting a bump in the field with heavy weight on 3 point. some relief valves are adjustable by turning the adjusting screw in tighter making more pressure and some you add shims. It would not hurt to inspect the relief also. Now if you have flow coming from the plug it shows the pump is pumping which is good, Return path of oil to allow lift to drop can be blocked by rate of drop knob in front of operator seat. make sure it is not all the way to turtle as that would not allow the arm to drop. if you cannot drop the arm then you can lift it either.
 
   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...
  • Thread Starter
#12  
The relief/diverter valve has 2 plugs and a screwdriver slot. I removed both plugs, one at a time, with weight on 3 pt, and while I did get fluid drip out of them, nothing huge, and the 3 point didn't lower.
I cranked the tractor and turned the slotted screw and it would load the engine, I could hear it, depending on which way the slot was aimed. Still no drop at the 3 pt.
I am wondering if there is anything in the thumbscrew that has been messed with, that could be causing this issue.
David from jax
 

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   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down... #13  
You will need to remove the plate with the knob in front and below the seat. See photo. That will give view of the lift piston and if it is removed there is no hydraulic way to hold up the lift. Check the shaft that the lift arms attach to. Is it centered, will it move any? You may be able to tell if the problem is hydraulic or mechanical.

lift.jpg
 
   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down... #14  
A bit more explanation and pics for visual.

Below is the picture of behind the lift cylinder and piston. That Ram rod needs to move freely forward and back if you raise and lower the lift arm by hand. It is pinned so it can pivot some. The hole in the left and in the middle is where oil is being fed from the 3 point spool. It is the same path oil is returned to diffy when you lower the lift.

DSC04301.JPG

another picture of lift cylinder head. Notice the o-ring on the middle hole on the right. That is to seal the oil going to lift cylinder.
DSC04343.JPG


You see 3 holes here.The bigger hole in the middle is normal path of oil supply to the lift piston. The smaller hole is the shock relief and it is outside of the lift cylinder that directly dumps in to diffy. The one on theh right has a valve and seat that is the oil return path when you lower 3 point. That is the one directly connected to rabbit/turtle knob that establishes the rate of 3 point drop. Again is that valve is all the way closed then the oil has no pathway to return. The oil cannot get back to spool from the middle hole as there is the ball and spring that acts as a check valve or one way valve to provide flow to lift and not return path.
DSC04344.JPG


This the lift cylinder and piston insert. you see a gap between cylinder and teh housing and that is where shock oilf flow spils in to the diffy. That operates with the stiffer soing and ball check valve.
DSC04345.JPG
 
   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...
  • Thread Starter
#15  
You guys are making me smile with all the knowledge y'all have about this tractor! I really appreciate the help!
. Spent the evening with friends around a fire pit. Didn't accomplish much, but had a good time!
David from jax
 

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   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down... #16  
Good looking fire. we'll have one tonight with my boys. hopefully , collectively we get to the bottom of your problem.
 
   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Good looking fire. we'll have one tonight with my boys. hopefully , collectively we get to the bottom of your problem.
JC-jettro,
Did you see what was standing in line with the fire 🔥 about 40 feet away?
As far as the "problem"...I need to know what I will need to pull and replace. Is there a gasket that I will need to make, and how about the o-rings, any chance that I will need need ones?
Just trying to get ahead of anything I might need so I don't have to leave it open if I don't have time to go after things. Those things might be ordered, but time is getting to be an issue.
David from jax
 
   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down... #18  
No David, I did not see it clearly enough first time of around, needed my .270 during if it were the season. I am sure it is not season yet in your neck of the woods.

As far as disassembly, You first need to establish if your return path for oil is working. what you want to do is move the knob all the way to rabbit, then try to lower the 3 point lift using the lift lever. If 3 point does not lower then keep turning the knob CW or CCW.

1- Did the arm come done when you opened the plug?
2- did you manipulate the rate of drop knob?

Taking the lift cylinder head is real easy and most likely the o-ring will not damaged as it just sits in a groove. you can withdraw the cylinder sleeve out and inspect the ram rod. It might be mechanical bound up. You will not use any consumable part for this inspection. Do, what I suggested and report back.

One last thought, your 3 point arms is either mechanically bound up or hydraulically. If it is hydraulic then your lift piston seals is okay. When I changed my lift piston seal many years ago I think it was around $5. same thing now is at least $35 now. If it mechanistically bound then you need to inspect and verify and for that you do not need part. Lift system on 1000 series in Ford/Shibaura is a fantastic, robust and simple design. A lot of other tractors including my Kubota is real work to replace the seals.
 
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   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...
  • Thread Starter
#19  
1)The arms have not come down when I opened any plugs.
2)I have twisted the rate of drop knob several different ways, none of which made a difference.
3) Those deer are my Wife's pets, we feed them most days, and if you want to find out how good a shot She is, let her catch you shooting at Her deer!
4) I just looked on Messicks and while both o-rings are available, I will probably pull it apart and check for damages, or blockages.
5)The relief/diverter valve isn't on my 1100, so not familiar with it, but it appears it also controls if fluid is going to the lift arms or to auxiliary hydraulics. That would make me think it may have something to do with it, but one thing at a time.
David from jax
 
   / Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down... #20  
On #3 , I would not dare to test her resolve and marksmanship. Pretty much %95 of the deer I harvested were from back of my property and nope, I would not feed them.

1-If you remove the cylinder head off and the arm does not lower then there must be something that is mechanically bound up. Let's check on that. it will not be a big mess and it just need removal of 6 bolts. That is the most non-invasive and simple thing to start ruling thing out.
 
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