Door jamb repair.

/ Door jamb repair. #1  

dodge man

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So my daughters fiancée locked himself out of their house when it was below zero outside when walking the dog. With the title of the thread you can guess what happened. The bottom half of the door frame broke away from the door handle down. The dead bolt wasn’t thrown luckily.

They make repair kits for this made out of metal. That’s what I’m leaning on using. Anybody use one of these? I assume I just need to remove the trim and screw the repair jamb in. We live 4 hours away so I’ll have to haul the needed tools up. I’m open for other methods but my mechanic skills and tools are way ahead of my carpentry skills but I do have some tools.
8F92AF0F-30B3-45ED-8314-537E02408A75.jpeg
 
/ Door jamb repair. #2  
The "correct" carpentry repair would be to at least remove the door jamb on the door latch side and replace the entire piece of wood, either by making one on the table saw or maybe they sell one at Lowes. You'd have to cut it to length and then install with a few trim nails....probably needing a couple of shims to position it where it needs to be.

If the broken piece is complete and not missing any part, you could use a waterproof glue like titebond to glue the door jam back together.

Obviously, the split jam isn't strong enough to keep out an intruder. It looks like the door latch wasn't even screwed into the stud. Usually, I want to see 3-4" of screws attaching the door latch through the jam into the stud.

I think the issue you are going to have is that the distance from the door knob bolt to the dead bolt doesn't look like a standard dimension to simply install a once piece metal door latch reinforcing plate. You will need to measure.
 
/ Door jamb repair. #3  
Based on the single picture...I would be inclined to remove the insulation and add whatever it takes to fir out the jack stud to the back side of the existing jamb and then glue and fasten the broken piece back in...use bondo (yes body filler) to fill any gaps sand smooth and paint...
...Replace the strike plate screws with ones that reach the jack stud...
 
/ Door jamb repair. #4  
I think the box stores used to sell milled jambs...(left and right)...but to replace one on a prehung door requires a bit of skill since it's fastend to both the header and the threshold...the latter up from the bottom...

Good Luck...
 
/ Door jamb repair. #5  
I bet that hurts in a couple of ways. Ouch!

That's a pretty thin jamb, lucky for your daughter's fiancé. You could glue and clamp/screw it back into some sort of alignment, but I'm with @2manyrocks that I would expect to see more substantial fastening of the door frame to the wall. I would come prepared with some 4-6" screws to make it right, and to hold things in place while the glue sets.

If you go with the kit, I would be prepared for the deadbolt opening not to be in the right place, I.e. bring a metal saw, and extra screws.

Might be a chance to talk about how fast a locksmith can open locks...and how fast and easy it is to jimmy a door like that when the deadbolt isn't thrown.

Just in case, for the future...

All the best,

Peter
 
/ Door jamb repair. #6  
Why don't you help your daughter's fiancee' deal with this problem?
 
/ Door jamb repair. #7  
I'd want someone to hold up the broken jamb piece against what still remains of the door jamb to see if you can simply reglue it along with securing the door latches with longer screws into the stud. That would be your easiest repair if you're lucky enough that the broken piece can be glued back in place.

It becomes more involved if you have to replace the jamb. It's a common repair and there are many you tube videos showing how to do it.
 
/ Door jamb repair. #8  
Is this a rental?
I only see 2 screws in the top part where there are 4 screw holes.
Like 2manyrocks wrote glue the old parts back together.
Then move her to a safer place.
 
/ Door jamb repair.
  • Thread Starter
#9  
No, it’s not a rental. It’s a series of townhouses, they own it.
 
/ Door jamb repair. #10  
A clarification...By removing the insulation and furring the jack stud out to the back side of the jamb (use whatever thickness of scrap plywood etc and some shims)...be sure that the furring extends behind the intact jamb (at least between the sets of nails)...that way finish nails can be used to fasten the broken piece in place while glue sets..

Be sure to add additional shims behind the jamb at the strike plate locations...so when you use longer screws you do not pull the jamb in too far away from the door...check the gap (top to bottom) before replacing the inside casing...
 
/ Door jamb repair.
  • Thread Starter
#11  
A revisit. I’ve hung doors before but they were interior ones. In my picture above it seems like where you see pink insulation there should be lumber? It seems like where the drywall is would be flapping in the breeze so to speak. This may also be why the plate for the deadbolt only has 2 screws, there is nothing for them to screw into. I think this is why /Pine is saying to fir out with a piece of lumber. Thanks for the advice.
 
/ Door jamb repair. #12  
If the broken piece is complete and not missing any part, you could use a waterproof glue like titebond to glue the door jam back together.
That would be my approach and reinforce as required with screws into the studs and suitable blocking as required
 
/ Door jamb repair. #13  
Hard to tell from the picture if the insulation is just enough to cover the gap between the door frame and the stud or if there is a major gap. Typically, the door studs will be oversized just a bit to make it easier to insert the prefab door & frame into the opening in the wall where the door goes. The amount of the oversizing depends on the measuring for the height and width of the opening versus the prefab door frame as well as whether the studs and floor are truly level.

This is why the previous posters were recommending that you take some shims with you because you never know how much the gap is going to be. Shims are a quick way of taking up that gap between the studs and the door frame to make the door frame installation that more secure.


It can be a PITA to hand nail and get the shims just right. So....my suggestion is to buy some trim screws that won't look terrible, but would allow you to back the screw out and try again if you see them pulling the door frame too far away from the door.

Be sure you have the correct bit to drive these or check the trim screw package to see if it includes the correct bit. Also...predrill the hole so the trim doesn't tend to split.


Moving on to the door latch, typically there are only two short screws holding the latch to the prefab door frame. The screws are short because they are shipping these door assemblies and don't want any protruding screws to stab someone.

When it comes to the actual installation of the door, the finish carpenters typically set the door in the wall opening, tack it up more or less level and plumb.

A better finish carpenter will take time to shim the door frame, but take out those short latch screws and install longer screws that will secure the latch to the stud.

The BF was able to kick the thing in because the door only had the two short screws that didn't reach into the stud.
 
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/ Door jamb repair.
  • Thread Starter
#14  
He actually just used his shoulder. After looking at the picture I said to her I bet he popped that door right open and she said yes he was surprised how easy he broke it open. I’m a little over 6 feet tall and weigh about 245 and he makes me look small.

Btw, I was friends with someone who worked for a locksmith for years and picked some stuff up. The open the door with the credit card trick will not usually work anymore. I will know that for sure when I see her door.
 
/ Door jamb repair. #15  
I'm no carpenter, but followed along pretty well because I've done a couple of doors in my lifetime.

A consideration may be: could this happen again? Personally I would reframe and secure those latch plates with some heavy screws. Then buy the fiance an extra key and attach it to the dog's collar. :)
 
/ Door jamb repair. #16  
Just get a pilot bit and counter sink and screw broken piece back on. Probably won't be able to tell it even happened. Tell doofus to get some extra keys or even a push button latch.
 
/ Door jamb repair. #17  
I have hung thousands of doors. That looks suspiciously like an interior jamb. It's lightweight vs an exterior jamb. Also the opening is not framed properly which is why there is no stud at the jamb. Sorry if it was you :p
Having no stud there makes a solid repair harder. But you can cobble together a temporary repair by screwing a board on the back side of the broken board (screws go in from the paint side) so that it hangs out far enough the glue and screw the broken part onto it.
 
/ Door jamb repair. #18  
The side jamb looked a little odd to me as well but I believe the inside piece is an exterior door jamb because of the door insulation strip. I suspect a piece of trim was nailed to the exterior at one point perhaps for a storm door?

Regardless, I suspect you're going to find that the stud is about 1/2" inch or so from the door frame and there is just a little insulation crammed in between the stud and the door frame to help with air leaks.

There seems to be a shim near the bottom and a nail or a screw driven in near the insulation strip to hold the door frame to the stud. You can most likely pull that insulation strip out of the slot in the door frame to see where they drove the other nails or screws to hold the frame to the studs if needed.

jamb.jpeg
 
/ Door jamb repair.
  • Thread Starter
#19  
2manyrocks, that’s what I’m hoping is the case and that will make it easier.
 
/ Door jamb repair. #20  
I run 3" screws thru the latch and on into the 2x4s or 2x6s behind the glued, screwed & tattooed elcheapo door frames. Actually, professional burglars kick in the hinge side because the same 3/4" screws hold the hinges to the door frame. Just kick 1 hinge at a time. Be sure to re-screw the door side as well.
 

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