Just drive making a left turn. It'll swing under and then out. But me, I'd just get the weed eater.How do you get the bar under the fence wire, on the ground, go 10-16 feet and get it back up and around the next post, and start over?
I think the answer is why all these other ideas have been considered.
the barb wire fence should be up off the ground. a tractor with a live pto and you with patience... put the tractor in a very low gear and pull up to the post with the bar on the ground and turn the tractor toward the fence and mow under the wire right up to the next post. raise the mower up enough to get the bar off the ground. put in reverse back up carefully untill you can pull out and go to the next post and repeat. after a while you learn how to pull in leaving the bar on the ground and weave in and out under the fence with out backing up every time. with the live pto you can ease up and it will be cutting all the time. if you like keeping your farm trimmed up this is the best machine for the job. with the disc mower and disc bine you just cant get up close to things. i have done this a lot over the years. leaves everything green. anymore i just spray and let it turn brown.How do you get the bar under the fence wire, on the ground, go 10-16 feet and get it back up and around the next post, and start over?
I think the answer is why all these other ideas have been considered.
How do you get the bar under the fence wire, on the ground, go 10-16 feet and get it back up and around the next post, and start over?
I think the answer is why all these other ideas have been considered.
Once and Done. Maybe two time per season. Hit it in the hot weather and the ground will be bare for a season. It is very low in toxicity. And much safer than Paraquat.Glyphosate
Not sure how to describe this, but my goal is to cut some of the very tall grass growing under a barb wire fence that I will be taking out. I like the idea of a bar that would stick out approximately 6 inches past the brush hog at an angle to grab grass under the fence and draw it into the brush hog cutting area.... if it was spring loaded it would hit the t-post and go right back each time. I am about to test a stationary version and will post results.
I don't have to cut every blade to the ground, if I can cut most of the grass it will help tremendously.
My personal choice for this application is a hedge trimmer attachment for a straight shaft trimmer. Mine is a Troy Bilt attachment purchased at Lowes years ago and used a lot with no issues. I like it for timing under fences, along the sides of a fence for brush, etc that grows through the fence, (on both the customers' side or the neighbors' side of the fence,) for actual hedge trimming, and also ditch trimming. One of the nice features is the adjustable head angle that allows anywhere from the straight shaft position to 90* angles. It has a 16" cutting area and in your situation, you could reach that far under the fence to the other side. This would let you cut that far out on both sides, making it easy to mow up to the fence with the bush hog otherwise. The only downside that I see is if you have a lot of fence to cut along, it makes for a lot of walking. One upside is if you already have a trimer that accepts attachments, you would only need to add this attachment to your list of equipment.Well, the OP did give me a potential solution to one of the problems I have with the piece-a-junk Bush Hog brand 7' finish mower I bought. The front of the mower is rounded at the corners, following the blade arcs, and it fairly effectively pushes any taller grass to the side, limiting max cutting width. I need to write up a review of my 'experiences' with the Bush Hog factory.
agree, for me a heavy duty bicycle handle/harness weed eater works wonders around my endless pond dams & areas like yours.Just drive making a left turn. It'll swing under and then out. But me, I'd just get the weed eater.