First Time Homeowner - E110 Not Starting

[Gryz]

I recently bought my first home and also bought the E110 from the previous owner. Has 200 hours, and did the complete maintenance kit when I moved in and has been great since February.

It recently starting doing this, where I cannot start it. I can usually start it the first time of the day. After that, it will not start.

I can tell you the starter motor gets hotter than the surface of the sun. That is the only thing I have noticed in troubleshooting. Perhaps why I can only start it once?

Things I have done:

1. Changed Battery
2. Changed Solenoid
3. Disassembled Starter Motor - reseated brushes, cleaned commutator
4. Checked Spark Plug
5. Checked Safety Switches

Any ideas? I am mechanically inclined, but this is my first lawn tractor.

 

[jaxs]

Wellllll weeee'l hafta know a bit more before going all in on a solution. Research your model of engine to see if it has a feature called compression release and how it works. One you know that's not the problem,move on to starter below.
Are you holding key in start position from beginning to end of that vid? If so the spring in starter drive is weak. If you were releasing key each time flywheel stalled,try holding key in start position for 3 secounds to see if flywheel starts spinning after the momentary hesitation. If flywheel doesn't spin after momentary hesitation or stall's again after beginning to spin,it will require a new starter or complete overhaul.

 

[Roadworthy]

Since it seems you can engage the starter but it gets hot make sure all your connections are clean and tight. These would be both battery terminals of course but would also include the ground cable being tight at the chassis ground. Be sure power cable to starter is tight and tighten mounting bolts to ensure good ground. Don't overlook the solenoid connections. Check the cables for corrosion. Check carefully, it's not always obvious. If the starter is still overheating you may wish to have it checked at a shop that works on starters. Of course if the starter gets hot when you're not even using it you probably have quite a current drain on the battery and need to investigate in that direction.

 

[5030]

From the short vid, I'd say it needs a valve adjustment. When the valves get sloppy, they won't engage the compression release and it won't turn over. Easy to adjust. I suggest you look up Taryl's UT video's on how to adjust them.

 

[beenthere]

Welcome to TBN

From what I hear, I'd first remove and clean all battery cable connections. Then get the battery load tested. If all done and good, move to the starter and other good suggestions as given.

 

[2manyrocks]

From the short vid, I'd say it needs a valve adjustment. When the valves get sloppy, they won't engage the compression release and it won't turn over. Easy to adjust. I suggest you look up Taryl's UT video's on how to adjust them.

I think you are right.

 

[Gryz]

I think you are right.

So I just adjusted the valves. They did not seem out of spec to me and I did not check to see what they were at. But I loosened them and set them to 4 thou.
Started right up...

So I think you guys were right. Can you explain to me about the compression release so I can understand?
Thanks!

EDIT: Nevermind, it is back to its old self. Cannot get it to turn over.

 

[Gryz]

Think I found the problem. Well first, I think my compression release spring valve is busted off, as I don't see a bump when moving the valves by hand.
But I got it to fire up anyway, started mowing and notices some smoke and leaking oil on the ground.

Wonder if that was the compression valve that flew out or something else?

 

[jaxs]

Think I found the problem. Well first, I think my compression release spring valve is busted off, as I don't see a bump when moving the valves by hand.
But I got it to fire up anyway, started mowing and notices some smoke and leaking oil on the ground.

Wonder if that was the compression valve that flew out or something else?

Since I was the one that jumped the compression release rabbit,I should respond to your question about it.
Notice I advise "YOU" research it for "your specific engine",it's different from one engine to another. A common arrangement is a spring loaded cam that hold's exhust valve open at low revolutions.
Revolutions meaning far fewer than rpms at idle. The instant engine strats,revs sling cam out of way until engine completly stops. If your's is like that,make certain you set exhust valve clearance on EXHUST stroke,not on COMPRESSION stroke. Very common mistake that disable's the function. I doubt oil and smoke have anything to do with compression release,more likly gasket leak caused while setting valve clearance. I realize you are mechanically inclined but I'll offer something just in case your mentor overlooked it. Be very mindful not to let 2 seperate issues trick you into believeing symptoms are from a single issue. Stated differently,chasing 2 rabbits while thinking there's only one rabbit seldom leads to catching a rabbit. Either forget the smoke and oil leak for now or take time to find cause(s) before troubleshooting hard start.

 

[2manyrocks]

Think I found the problem. Well first, I think my compression release spring valve is busted off, as I don't see a bump when moving the valves by hand.
But I got it to fire up anyway, started mowing and notices some smoke and leaking oil on the ground.

Wonder if that was the compression valve that flew out or something else?

If the valve cover isn't tightened enough or the gasket is bad, it will leak oil. On my Briggs, the oil ends up on the exhaust muffler if I don't have the valve cover tightened. That might be where the smoke and oil leaking is happening.

I also recommend watching some youtube videos about the valves. You may have to do some research to figure out exactly what gaps are needed and where you have to be on the compression stroke when setting the gaps. I can't say for your specific machine.

 

[Gryz]

Since I was the one that jumped the compression release rabbit,I should respond to your question about it.
Notice I advise "YOU" research it for "your specific engine",it's different from one engine to another. A common arrangement is a spring loaded cam that hold's exhust valve open at low revolutions.
Revolutions meaning far fewer than rpms at idle. The instant engine strats,revs sling cam out of way until engine completly stops. If your's is like that,make certain you set exhust valve clearance on EXHUST stroke,not on COMPRESSION stroke. Very common mistake that disable's the function. I doubt oil and smoke have anything to do with compression release,more likly gasket leak caused while setting valve clearance. I realize you are mechanically inclined but I'll offer something just in case your mentor overlooked it. Be very mindful not to let 2 seperate issues trick you into believeing symptoms are from a single issue. Stated differently,chasing 2 rabbits while thinking there's only one rabbit seldom leads to catching a rabbit. Either forget the smoke and oil leak for now or take time to find cause(s) before troubleshooting hard start.

Thank you for your detailed response.

The picture above shows a hole blown in the side of the engine, which is where the oil and smoke was coming from. Ran fine for a few hours after setting the valves. Took a lunch break, had trouble starting it but it eventually turned over.
Made a few passes before noticing the smoke, oil and finally the hole in the engine.

I just drained the oil. Lots of fine metallic shavings.

 

[jaxs]

Thank you for your detailed response.

The picture above shows a hole blown in the side of the engine, which is where the oil and smoke was coming from. Ran fine for a few hours after setting the valves. Took a lunch break, had trouble starting it but it eventually turned over.
Made a few passes before noticing the smoke, oil and finally the hole in the engine.

I just drained the oil. Lots of fine metallic shavings.

Sorry to hear that. That's bad,make that really bad. Around my area there are lots of late model lawn tractors for sale because they don't run and shops are so expensive that people buy new. You have to be quick on the trigger for Z-turns but regular tractors are cheap. Your problem might be having a way to mow while precuring and repairing the replacement.

 

[LittleBill21]

also looks like its missing the sump bolts. if it makes you feel any better, mine is torn apart waiting for yet another part.

 

[Gryz]

It is what it is. I reached out to a small engine repair place and they will swap the motor out with another used one for me. Better than buying an entirely new mower I suppose.

 

[Richard001]

Gryz - you said that you know your way around tools, why would you pay someone else to do what you can do ?

 

[Gryz]

Gryz - you said that you know your way around tools, why would you pay someone else to do what you can do ?

That's a good question. It is because the repair shop would not sell me just an engine as they don't honor their warranty if they do not do the work themselves.

The price was reasonable, so I said sure.

 

[LittleBill21]

they have used and new on ebay, just an fyi. IF your good at this. its a 20 minute change out. I kid you not.

 

[Gryz]

they have used and new on ebay, just an fyi. IF your good at this. its a 20 minute change out. I kid you not.

Link? I am unable to find them.

 

[LittleBill21]

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[LittleBill21]

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