New hydraulic top link won't clear the lift arms on my B-series

[npalen]

A banjo fitting is also a good alternative if you feel that the 90 degree fitting that Lou suggested doesn't provide enough clearance on the arm.

I like the banjo fittings but isn't a compatible port type required to seal them?

Edit: Compatible in regard to the thread type and size and the port face machined to seal against the copper washer on the banjo fitting.

 

[Outinstickssnafu]

I've no idea where you are ... but generally phone and mail still works.

I would recommend Powell Industrial if they are in your neck of the woods.

https://www.powellindustrial.com.au/about-us.html

 

[ptsg]

Not Sure about AU, but finding banjo fittings in the US is terrible. We normally replace them with O-Ring Boss (ORB) due to rarity.

I've noticed that. However, if you have an hydraulic top link with the double pilot check valve, chances are that it will have at least 2, maybe 3 banjo fittings.

I like the banjo fittings but isn't a compatible port type required to seal them?

Edit: Compatible in regard to the thread type and size and the port face machined to seal against the copper washer on the banjo fitting.

As long as the port matches the thread and has a flat face, which the nature of a port, either on a cylinder, valve or motor, always provide that, all it needs is either a copper or dowty washer on top and bottom of the banjo and it's good to go.

Let's say you have a 3/8" BSP banjo fitting, the port will need to be 3/8" BSP as well.

 

[Fxfymn413]

I weld, so I'd opt for the easy fix and cut the top link off and re-weld it so the hoses face up or down. I have welded a couple of top links and never had a failure.

 

[npalen]

I've noticed that. However, if you have an hydraulic top link with the double pilot check valve, chances are that it will have at least 2, maybe 3 banjo fittings.



As long as the port matches the thread and has a flat face, which the nature of a port, either on a cylinder, valve or motor, always provide that, all it needs is either a copper or dowty washer on top and bottom of the banjo and it's good to go.

Let's say you have a 3/8" BSP banjo fitting, the port will need to be 3/8" BSP as well.

I'm not real familiar with the BSP (British Standard Pipe or British Straight Pipe?) but isn't it a slightly different pitch than NPT which, also, is normally a tapered thread? Also, the surface of a threaded port isn't normally polished to accept a seal so I'm assuming that the copper washer is soft enough to absorb the imperfections and make a good seal. (?)

Perhaps the differences in pitch and taper between European and Imperial ports are not enough to cause problems when applied to a banjo style fitting?

 

[ptsg]

I'm not real familiar with the BSP (British Standard Pipe or British Straight Pipe?) but isn't it a slightly different pitch than NPT which, also, is normally a tapered thread? Also, the surface of a threaded port isn't normally polished to accept a seal so I'm assuming that the copper washer is soft enough to absorb the imperfections and make a good seal. (?)

Perhaps the differences in pitch and taper between European and Imperial ports are not enough to cause problems when applied to a banjo style fitting?

Technically, I should've really called BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel). There is also the BSPT ( British Standard Pipe taper) but I've never really seen it being used on hydraulics.

The face of the port doesn't need to be polished. Even the finish straight out of lathe is plenty good for the copper washer to seal. The dowty washer will seal even easier being that it has the rubber seal bonded to the washer, almost like an o-ring and doesn't need to be tighten as much as the copper washer.

The banjo style fitting has to have parallel thread or it will simply not work. If the banjo bolt had a tapered thread, it would run into the issue of not threading enough to seal the banjo or too lose of a fit that would pretty much strip the threads.

 

[LouNY]

OK, looking closely at the OP's first pic;

The fitting port size is 9/16" UNF
this should be a 9/16 fine thread if using a bolt to verify,
also called an SAE -6 or a -06

just guessing as the hose kit doesn't say what size they are;

A -06 male X 3/8" male npt might be the correct fitting,

SAE 6 Male x 3/8" NPT Male 90 Degree Elbow 6806-06-06 Adapter​

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The 90* fitting works for his application, I do this all the time. He will need to keep his anti sway links snugged up though.

As far as a banjo fitting, only if you are going to machine the bolt yourself or are willing to purchase 1000 pieces the last time I checked. I machine the bolts for the few that I need.

 

[tallguy104]

LouNY yes you're right you tracked down the top link I have! I've circled the fittings from the hose kit which go directly into the port on the top link.

As you can see it has a rubber o ring on the 9/16 UNF end, which pushes into the tapered part of the female port:

So when screwed all the way in looks like this:

The other end of the elbow is 3/8" BSPT.

So I gather the elbow I am looking for is one which has "9/16 UNF" (AKA "SAE -6" or "-06") on one end, and 3/8" BSPT on the other? Do I need to specify anything extra to ensure that it comes with the rubber o-ring as well (assuming it is necessary)?

A side question someone might be able to help with...since we are talking hydraulic fittings. I've googled high and low and can't work it out. It turns out the hoses supplied with the top link have BSP (parallel thread) fittings on each end. For some reason, all of the fittings supplied with the hose are BSPT (tapered thread). I would have thought the fittings would need to be parallel thread (BSP) fittings too, so that they can be freely screwed all the way into the female BSP fitting on the hose and press down on the o-ring (see photo below) to create a tight seal. I raised this with the dealer and they assured me they are compatible, yet to my lay-man mind I cannot see how they would seal tightly.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Can you get a 90 degree elbow that's male threads on both ends that would screw directly into the cylinder and then attach the hose to it? It looks like eliminating the adapter/coupling would provide the clearance.

He just needs a street ell from the hardware store.