Best way to shorten cylinder rod?

[etpm]

Before you cut the rods be sure you will still have enough extension to fully dump the bucket. Adding travel on one end reduces it on the other unless the cylinders can extend past their current stops.

Thanks for the reply. I did consider the dumping capability but if I hadn't your reply would have reminded me to do so. The bucket now curls way more than necessary to dump. It really appears as if the cylinders were assembled with the wrong length rods. Fully retracted there is much more than 3 inches of rod exposed and I have never seen a hydraulic cylinder like this. Looking at the specs for my loader it curls forward way more than the what the drawing shows and way less back.
Eric

 

[etpm]

I would not use stainless filler to weld it. Most rods are alloy steel with a thin chrome plating on them. Use something like 70-S6 for filler. I normally mig weld cylinders and rods when I build/modify them.

The 308 stainless filler I have has the same yield strength but higher tensile strength than 70-S6 filler. I know the piston rod is some sort of alloy but since I don't know for sure which I will the stainless filler to lessen any chance of cracking. And since I already have plenty of filler rod and it won't take much the extra cost of the 308 filler won't amount to much. I do appreciate the reply though. Folks often have pre-conceived notions of what will work but are mistaken. It helps when someone with experience, you for example, says something. Then a person can make sure they are doing the right thing.
I could MIG weld the rod ends back on but I am more comfortable using TIG for this job.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[CJONE]

The 308 stainless filler I have has the same yield strength but higher tensile strength than 70-S6 filler. I know the piston rod is some sort of alloy but since I don't know for sure which I will the stainless filler to lessen any chance of cracking. And since I already have plenty of filler rod and it won't take much the extra cost of the 308 filler won't amount to much. I do appreciate the reply though. Folks often have pre-conceived notions of what will work but are mistaken. It helps when someone with experience, you for example, says something. Then a person can make sure they are doing the right thing.
I could MIG weld the rod ends back on but I am more comfortable using TIG for this job.
Thanks,
Eric

You can use basically any filler you want as long as it is at least a 60 series. Most rods are just induction hardened with a chrome coating, some are not even hardened. I have welded quite a few either with a mig 70 series filler or 7018 with 0 failures. Just be sure that the ends are a true 90deg before and after you start welding. I will weld a pass at the top and then the bottom of eye and then the sides so it doesn't pull on you. Be SURE the rods are the same length! Never had a cracking issue welding rod ends. I will put a small hole in the eye tube and machine a small nub on the rod just to hold it true if I have it in the lathe. Watch for mig splatter in the chrome if you use a mig. I always leave at least 1/2" of rod stickout when it is fully retacted. Any less it will force crap into the gland wiper then destroy the seal. Anything else shoot me a PM and I will try to help. CJ

 

[RancherGuy]

Thanks for the reply. I did consider the dumping capability but if I hadn't your reply would have reminded me to do so. The bucket now curls way more than necessary to dump. It really appears as if the cylinders were assembled with the wrong length rods. Fully retracted there is much more than 3 inches of rod exposed and I have never seen a hydraulic cylinder like this. Looking at the specs for my loader it curls forward way more than the what the drawing shows and way less back.
Eric

The 3 inches of exposed rod is not a surprise for a tractor that some may consider in a budget class. Maybe they had a cylinder supplier but that source became unavailable and they found a substitute cylinder that was a little longer than the original.

 

[etpm]

You can use basically any filler you want as long as it is at least a 60 series. Most rods are just induction hardened with a chrome coating, some are not even hardened. I have welded quite a few either with a mig 70 series filler or 7018 with 0 failures. Just be sure that the ends are a true 90deg before and after you start welding. I will weld a pass at the top and then the bottom of eye and then the sides so it doesn't pull on you. Be SURE the rods are the same length! Never had a cracking issue welding rod ends. I will put a small hole in the eye tube and machine a small nub on the rod just to hold it true if I have it in the lathe. Watch for mig splatter in the chrome if you use a mig. I always leave at least 1/2" of rod stickout when it is fully retacted. Any less it will force crap into the gland wiper then destroy the seal. Anything else shoot me a PM and I will try to help. CJ

I was planning on using a pin to do the same thing as you do with the nub. I am going to shorten the rods in the mill so that I take the exact same amount off of each rod. I'll use a carbide endmill to mill off the rod end and then move over and mill off the excess length. This method will be a little slower than sawing and then milling but will guarantee I remove the exact same amount from each rod. And it will only be two rods anyway. After shortening I will clamp the rod in a toolmaker's vise with the rod hanging down off the back edge of the table. Then indicate for center and drill a 1/4" diameter pin hole.
I wasn't sure how much rod to have sticking out when done. Your comment about having at least 1/2 inch to keep dirt from being forced past the seal was a good one. Now I know how much I'm gonna have sticking out.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[etpm]

The 3 inches of exposed rod is not a surprise for a tractor that some may consider in a budget class. Maybe they had a cylinder supplier but that source became unavailable and they found a substitute cylinder that was a little longer than the original.

I was thinking the same thing. The cylinder supplier ran out of the short, correct length rod and just put longer rods in. Or somebody made a mistake. But they installed them anyway. Like you said the tractor and FEL were budget class. Even though relatively inexpensive the tractor itself is built to last and will surely outlast me. I don't know anything about the new ones but 40 years ago Yanmar was making high quality tractors. Oddly, the FEL mounting frame is very heavily built. The loader arms are kinda lightly built but the frame is heavier than a modern Kubota the same size that I was looking at the other day.
Eric

 

[CJONE]

I was planning on using a pin to do the same thing as you do with the nub. I am going to shorten the rods in the mill so that I take the exact same amount off of each rod. I'll use a carbide endmill to mill off the rod end and then move over and mill off the excess length. This method will be a little slower than sawing and then milling but will guarantee I remove the exact same amount from each rod. And it will only be two rods anyway. After shortening I will clamp the rod in a toolmaker's vise with the rod hanging down off the back edge of the table. Then indicate for center and drill a 1/4" diameter pin hole.
I wasn't sure how much rod to have sticking out when done. Your comment about having at least 1/2 inch to keep dirt from being forced past the seal was a good one. Now I know how much I'm gonna have sticking out.
Thanks,
Eric

Just be sure you have enough dump at full height with the 2.5" removed. CJ

 

[sandman2234]

Using the cut and weld, I would make sure to fill the cylinder is full of oil, and might even consider dropping it in a bucket of water to keep the heat away from the seals! Weld in short bursts, to keep temps down!
David from jax

 

[5030]

I’d take the cut and weld option because it’s faster, easier and doesn’t require taking the the cylinder apart.

With one caveat. The rods are hard chromed so you need to take a thin kerf abrasive wheel and remove the hard chrome before cutting where you intend to sever them. Cut the old eye off and reweld it to the newly cut off rod end.

 

[CJONE]

With one caveat. The rods are hard chromed so you need to take a thin kerf abrasive wheel and remove the hard chrome before cutting where you intend to sever them. Cut the old eye off and reweld it to the newly cut off rod end.

If it is just chromed you can cut right through it. If it is induction hardened with chrome then just "red line" it with a torch "heat until it just discolors' and then cut with the saw. That is the fastest cleanest way to cut hardened rod. CJ