Thanks for the info. None of these lights have dimmers in my house so not a big deal on that part. I see Amazon has these for a bit under $6 a bulb. Decisions....
5 KND6 - - Amazon.com
Thanks for the info. None of these lights have dimmers in my house so not a big deal on that part. I see Amazon has these for a bit under $6 a bulb. Decisions....
TCP 65 Watt Equivalent 6-pack LED BR3 Flood Light Bulbs, Non-Dimmable Daylight White (5K) LBR315KND6 - - Amazon.com
I haven't noticed any RFI from LED bulbs in the house/shop, but automotive ones (work lights, fog lights, etc.) are a different story, even interfere with FM reception. Putting a ferrite bead in the 12V wire does help a lot.Update. Nearly the entire house is LED now, Mostly Cree, except for the 4 foot tubes in the kitchen and garage. They are Hyperikon bought from Amazon, and they are the kind that run off of 120 volts directly so you have to remove the ballasts in your old fluorescent fixtures. That is no big deal. There is also a couple of no name fixtures and a screw in "batwing" type of LED bulb 10,000 watt equivalent downstairs in the craft room. man is that thing bright. No failures with any of them except the original old Cree bulb number 1 in the lamp upstairs that became flakey as noted back in 2016. So no failures, No RFI, just lots of light so far.
James can better talk this point than I. What I understand is some types of LED replacements don't require removal of the ballast. What I understand about that type is the savings is less and RFI is more likely.
Correct. Some don't require the removal of the ballast, but you do not save as much electricity, and still have the failure point of the ballast. You save time on the original install as you just snap in the tubes like any other tube. BUT in my opinion far better to remove the ballast, it just takes a few minutes and wire in the in model that runs directly on the 120 volts AC. I chose the single ended feed kind. Maximum savings, and less heat, and gets rid of the failure point of the ballast. If you know how to turn off a breaker, and can follow simple printed instructions and use wire nuts to rewire and a nutdriver to remove the 3/8 nut holding the ballast in place, you can do this job yourself. No electrician required. If you didn't understand that or cannot follow instructions, then do not attempt. 5 minutes later, you have loads more light, and saving a lot of money. I haven't seen any RFI from the Hyperikon 4 foot tubes, and the ones in the kitchen and garage have been playing for years. They are totally payed for now and the rest is gravy. Win, Win, Win. No downside noted so far.
I replace them in the garage or shop when the ballast goes bad, but in the house I replace them because they're ugly (bad color) and I can see the fluorescent's flicker readily while the LED is only obvious if I'm moving my eyes.
How are the replacement headlights as far as aim goes? I've noticed the parts store "fog lights" need to be pointed almost straight down (more or less negating any benefits from them), otherwise the glare will blind oncoming drivers. I'm sure this is taken into account with the high end replacements, but the Chinese ones, meh.
Ballasts are pricey, in many cases more than a replacement fixture. I've read that if you're going to pull out the ballasts to install LED tubes you need to change the tombstones too. Supposedly the non-ballast ones are different, though I've never seen an explanation as to what the difference was.
Well, that was many years ago.
