HardiPlank - Pros and Cons?

[AndyM]

In this thread--
Hoisting an I-beam …
TBN member Fungus made the following comment--
<font color="blue"> "Everything is coming together pretty nicely, but I’m torn about what siding to use. At first I was going to use HardiPlank but I’m swinging more towards T-11 now. After reading about all the issues with HardiPlank it seems easier to use the T-11 and have to paint it more often." </font>

Since the comment was in an unrelated thread, I'm starting a new thread about HardiPlank...
What are some of the cons for using HariPlank siding? Why would it be more of an advantage to use T1-11 siding? What issues have people run into using HardiPlank?

MrsAndyM gave the go ahead to build the new garage in the spring. The original plan was using OSB covered with vinyl siding. Since the price of OSB has gone out of sight, I started thinking about T1-11 or HardiPlank siding. I haven't had much luck using T1-11 in the past, so how about HardiPlank?

 

[btolle]

I don't know of any cons about Hardi Plank other than it is messy to cut.

T-111 won't last more than 5-10 years in a humid climate like we have in East Texas. You can't seal it well enough to keep water from getting in the ends and then it swells and starts coming apart.

BTW, they also make Hardi Panel in 4 X 8 sheets and several finishes including one that looks like T-111.

For about $2 a sheet you can get it pre-primed, well worth it.

Having used both products there is no way I would ever use T-111 again.

Bill Tolle

 

[DocHeb]

I used HardiPlank in the textured finished, bevel, horizontal lap siding. We blind nailed with stainless steel nails - it looks great. Just follow the instructions to the letter regarding pre-installation care of materials, nail placement, sheathing support, gap allowances, etc. Did I mention that it looks great? When we installed it three years ago there wasn't trim in the same material, but now I believe there is 5/4" trim boards in the same material.

 

[stephan]

I don't know about the construction with Hardiplank but our house is covered with it. It was constructed in '92 by an owner build (read:Amateur) and is holding up well. The previous owner put only the slightest hint of paint on it so about 5 years ago we had it done again with two coats and it is holding up well. Couple of minor cracks that I filled with silicon gutter sealant and painted over, I put those down to the aforementioned builder.

Our climate here is Summer average about 32 degrees Celsius topping at over 40. Winter can get down to -5 with average in the single figures. No snow but because we live on the edge of an escarpment we get serious wind (not just after beans either). House is still up without damage. The walls and roof are insulated so it is cool in summer and warm in winter.

I've also drilled holes in it when required and the only advice I can give you there is not to scrimp on the holesaw's it's just not worth it.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

Hardiplank--board does have some hiccups, not problems, just inconveniences.

It's heavy. And it can be very heavy.

It's fragile when handling. Dealing with hardi-plank means you almost always have to have a helper. Trim boards have to be handled with great care or they will break.

You need a special blade for your saw if you're doing very much of it. It is concrete based and will dull up a conventional lumber blade in a heartbeat.

You need a nail gun and special nails. Hardi-plank is like sheetrock in that you don't want to break the outer skin when nailing up or you sabotage the integrity of the product. The nails have bigger heads and you really need a nailgun with an adjustable nailing head. You can regulate the impact with an air adjustment at the compressor. But that only works if there's one nail gun being used. And you will have to go back and hand hammer some nails flush.

I love Hardi-products. They're a pain in the butt sometimes to install but the final product is easy to love. If I was building something for myself or it was a project I knew my name would be tied to and the choices were wood based or Hardi I'd go with Hardi.

 

[MarkV]

Harv covered my experience with Hardi products very well. It is heavy, fragile until installed, harder to cut and requires some care when nailing. When you are done though you are done for the life of the building and paint will hold up much longer than on other sidings. I agree Harv, if I were building for myself Hardiplank would be my choice of siding.

MarkV

 

[bczoom]

I also have Hardypanel on my buildings.

The most recent building was done last year and I don't recall fighting much with either cutting or nailing it. I nailed by hand but did use the recommended nails.

The one con I've recently found is the lack of a H-channel to go between the sheets. If I recall correctly, they just recommend running a bead of caulk between the sheets.

I would use it over T-111 all the time. Won't burn or rot. No "footballs" to look at, Easy to paint. Holds up better and longer.

But... it doesn't care much for hooks on the tractor bucket. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[EastTexFrank]

I've used HardiPanel and HardiPlank a lot around the house for soffits and to enclose decks and love the stuff. Almost everything has been covered by others except, and I've found this out twice, the height of the overlap on HardiPlank comes in two different sizes. I can't remember for sure now but I think one is 2" and the other is 1-1/2" and the textured part of the board is correspondingly different. If you get a mixed batch it can make a big difference in alignment when enclosing a deck or sheathing a building. I was so mad when I had to rip off and junk 6 boards because they didn't line up at the corner of the deck. Ofcourse I didn't notice on the first one, it had to take 6 - I'm not very observant at times. It doesn't take many boards of differing overlap,stacked on top of one another, for that 1/2" difference to become really significant. Both the supplier and the Hardi rep both scratched their heads and you know what came next, "I've never seen that before?????" As I said, it's happened to me twice so just be careful when you purchase and install. Apart from that it's great stuff.

 

[JazzDad]

I put my vote in the "pro" column, having a well house, barn, house and future chicken coop all sided in Hardie materials. Be sure to wear lung protection when sawing it- you don't want to breathe that nasty silica.

 

[woodlot]

Is HardiPlank the same as "fiber cement siding"? If so, I belive there are many manufacturers of the stuff.

 

[OkeeDon]

Yes, Hardie products fall into that category. I'm familiar with, and have used, Cemplank, which is similar. However, I found it a bit more brittle. Also, the more common forms of Hardiplank and Hardipanel are available at Lowes and Home Depot, which makes it convenient and usually a bit less expensive. I can order other Hardie products at a local full service lumber yard, but they are at about a 25% premium. Only one supplier handles Cemplank in my area, and the prices are higher than the box stores but a bit lower than the full-service Hardie prices.

No suppliers in our area handle any other brands, and I didn't find any other brands in a quick Google search. I'd love to know about others so I could do some comparison...

 

[rlk]

HardiPlank is a great product.

Many people talk about it being difficult to cut. With these shears from Porter-Cable cutting is not a problem.
http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2857
I think I paid about $200 at Home Depot 2 years ago.

With the shears there is no dust to worry about.

I made a simple jig out of 2 x 12 material to ensure I got a square cut on each end.

You could probably rent a set also, but for $200 I thought I might as well purchase a set.

Bob

 

[EastTexFrank]

That shows you how dumb I am. I never even thought of looking for something like those shears. I used a diamond blade in the circular saw and it sure was dusty.

 

[slowrev]

I have used hardypanels, worked well, just heavy. I just cut it with a fine toothed carbide blade in a circular saw. It was dusty but cut fine. It seems to be the next best thing to real masonary covering your home/shop. Lasts forever, much better than t-11.
I had one oops and busted a hole in mine a few years ago, just patched it up with Drylok Fastplug masonary cement and painted the spot, looked great.
Ben

 

[Tdog]

Well, when I built my barn in 1993 I did not know about HardiPlank & I used T-111. I guess I will have to weigh in on the other side of the argument from most of the posts in this thread. I used 5/8" t-111 & I think it is holding up well. See attachment. I liked it enough that I used it again when my workshop was built, last month. You can't get a much more humid climate than I live in - - we average ~~ 60" rain a year.

I do not argue that it may not [will not] last as long as HardiPlank, but . . . neither will I.

So far, no regrets here.

 

[texbaylea]

Makita makes a cut-off saw especially for this stuff. The blade is shrouded and can be hooked to a vacuum. Has anyone used this saw? I am planning some home renovations and will be using Hardie products.

Vernon

 

[OkeeDon]

Attached is a picture of the Snapper Steelhead shear that I use. I have two of them, because we used a lot of Hardipanel in the outdoor kitchen cabinets (grill islands) I used to construct. When I bought them, they were a new tool, and I paid over $400 each, but there is at least one source on Snapper's web page that has them for $208.

 

[RalphVa]

The builder, who put it on our new carriage house and replaced the siding on our breakfast room that sticks out behind the rest of the house with it, had a special cutter and blades for his saws.

You have to use concrete bits for attaching anything to it with screws, and concrete screws.

We had ours painted. Still looks great after nearly 3 years.

Ralph

 

[Ronbo]

I have been doing my house in hardi for the past 1 1/2 years. I am using the lapboard siding. It looks great. Not everyone will carry the harditrim. Look around. I have t 1-11 siding and am putting down felt and then the hardi. I use a porter cable framing gun with the rubber foot on. It spaces it just right for the hardi. You do not have to use special nails, you just don't want to overdrive them. Keep it dry until installed. I have a hardi blade, but it is now warped. I will not pay the $50 the want for them now. I just use a $5 carbide blade and it works fine. It does wear it out faster, but it is $5. Wear a mask as it is a silica. I would not ever do t 1-11, It looks cheap. We did my in-laws rental house with hardi 4x8 sheets. It is easier and faster to do the lapboard. It also looks better.

Ron

 

[Kub0ta]

We use hardiplank in the apartment industry. Best stuff to use. Its more expensive than T-111 but last longer and overall a better product. The only problems we see are, somewhat difficult installation(easier with airguns and 2+ people).