Auto battery or deep cycle?

[anewuser]

I have to replace a replacement battery. My tractor, bought used, doesn't have the OEM battery, so I don't know what original was. Not the group size, nor the type. TractorData says it needs 582 CCA minimum. I've measured it and the group 35 seems the closest.

I am a casual user. I'll be on the tractor three days in a row, then not again for three weeks. If figure that kind of use begs a deep cycle. Or a car battery with a good maintainer. But I'd like to hear your opinion, or experience. Batteries ain't cheap these days. $230 for an Optima is a pretty good bit to swallow. At the same time, I'm not about to waste 43 bucks for a Walmart cheapie.

What do you think?

 

[vvanders]

Go auto, deep cycle aren't built for peak amperage you need from the starter.

Long as you turn it over once a month for 5-10 or keep it on a trickle charger shouldn't be an issues. That's our usage pattern here.

 

[jeff9366]

I use my tractor several days per week in retirement, every week, so I do not share your issue.

Some post here that batteries last longest frequently partially discharged, then recharged, which is my situation.

Some postulate that a constant full battery charge is detrimental to long battery life.

Our temperate winters (LA/FL) place less demand on tractor batteries than cold winters in the north.

I buy Interstate brand batteries for my passenger vehicles, tractor and RTV500. They last me a l-o-n-g time.

I grease battery terminals with specialized dielectric grease. I have dipped grease out of one 6-ounce tub for ten years.

LINK: NO OX ID battery grease | eBay



I will be interested in reading other's opinions.

I am a battery consumer. I claim no special battery expertise.

 

[Smokepole62]

Just bought an Interstate two weeks ago for $160. I got the industrial/ commercial vehicle grade battery, now it rolls right over.

 

[jaydee325]

A deep cycle battery is the wrong design for starting duty.

Are you looking for a battery for your Kubota? Why not just go to your local Kubota dealer and get a battery. Batteries are a consumable that is very price sensitive. Dealers have to compete so you should be able to source the correct battery at the dealership for a competitive price.

Alternatively, my local auto parts store has listings for all types of equipment batteries, even lawn and garden. I'm sure they would have the correct battery for a Kubota, any model.

 

[gimmodog]

A deep cycle battery is the wrong design for starting duty.

Are you looking for a battery for your Kubota? Why not just go to your local Kubota dealer and get a battery. Batteries are a consumable that is very price sensitive. Dealers have to compete so you should be able to source the correct battery at the dealership for a competitive price.

Alternatively, my local auto parts store has listings for all types of equipment batteries, even lawn and garden. I'm sure they would have the correct battery for a Kubota, any model.

I don't think a dealer of any brand tries to be competitive on their prices, most will just use the MSRP price. As an example I needed a battery for one of my tractors so bought it at the dealer, cost was 120 plus tax (dealer says my tractor is not large enough to be considered farm even tho I am farm exempt).
A couple months later I needed one for another tractor that used the same battery and happened to be at Rural King passing the battery section the price there was 70 and no tax (farm exempt on anything for the farm). Both batteries were made by Interstate Batteries with one labeled Strongbox and the other labeled Rural King. As long as the battery will fit and is over the minimum CCA it will work the higher the CCA the better. I would not go with the deep cycle.

 

[RjCorazza]

I use hybrid deep cycle / starting batteries for seasonal equipment. My preference is the Optima yellow tops.
For Optima, Red top is starting, Yellow deep cycle / starting, and Blue is deep cycle.

 

[Rustyiron]

I am a battery consumer. I claim no special battery expertise.

I like that Jeff! :thumbsup:
Sometimes it seems like I'm "consuming" a lot of them. :laughing:

 

[anewuser]

Jaydee, I haven't given the dealer much of a chance - well...not when it comes to batteries. Most posts I see report that dealers are very high on batteries. How many of us go back to the Ford/Chevy/Dodge dealer for a truck battery?

But you're right, I could at least price it. I'll do that, but I'd been leaning towards Interstate, even before I posted here.

 

[jeff9366]

Progressive Farmer FEBRUARY 2014

Hard Life Of A Battery​

An enemy of battery life, more than any other, is a loose battery that bounces around when the equipment is running.Vibration and bouncing can cause external and internal damage to the battery.

Seasonal equipment, such as a combine and self propelled hay swather, are not usually run enough in the off-season to keep the battery charged. Many have found that a trickle charger.even the use of a solar-powered one if possible.will not only keep the battery charged, but also can extend the life of the battery.

Trickle or Maintenance Chargers

With all the customer convenience electronics installed on vehicles these days, their batteries are extremely challenged.The radio, clock, engine computer, alarm system and other drains on the battery are constant even though the key is turned off. If a vehicle rests for more than 30 days, these parasitic drains could leave the battery without the capacity to start the engine.

The battery in a vehicle works much like a water storage tank for water. It stores a large amount of chemical electrical energy for times of high need. Like the full water storage tank that slowly evaporates and must be refilled, so goes the voltage in a battery.

Keeping a battery fully charged plays directly into the life of the battery. Each time a battery cycles (goes down and is charged), the life of the battery is significantly shortened.

Keeping a battery fully charged is difficult on machines with seasonal use.combine, grain truck, lawn mower or self propelled hay cutter.

There are a couple of ways to keep a battery charged during its off-season without periodically running the engine.The two options are a battery trickle charger or a battery maintenance charger. There are differences between the two.

Trickle Charger. The trickle charger should be used to deliver a charge of around 2.25 volts per cell and then should be disconnected from the battery in order to avoid an overcharge in the battery.

Even though a trickle charger is only delivering a trickle of a charge, if left on the battery too long, the battery can overheat. This can cause the battery to boil. Boiling can cause a battery to go dead, or worse, explode.

Maintenance Charger. A maintenance charger has several names, including a smart charger and a foat charger. This is the charger for the guy who is looking for a charger that can be plugged in and forgotten. Simply plug in the maintenance charger, put the leads on the battery, and wait until the winter snow melts.

This charger has a so-called Smart feature. The battery will be fully charged, but not overcharged. It cuts off the current used to charge the battery when the battery is fully charged. When the battery drops to a preset voltage, the charger comes to life and brings the battery back to a full charge.

 

[CalG]

I have to replace a replacement battery. My tractor, bought used, doesn't have the OEM battery, so I don't know what original was. Not the group size, nor the type. TractorData says it needs 582 CCA minimum. I've measured it and the group 35 seems the closest.

I am a casual user. I'll be on the tractor three days in a row, then not again for three weeks. If figure that kind of use begs a deep cycle. Or a car battery with a good maintainer. But I'd like to hear your opinion, or experience. Batteries ain't cheap these days. $230 for an Optima is a pretty good bit to swallow. At the same time, I'm not about to waste 43 bucks for a Walmart cheapie.

What do you think?

There are good and bad batteries from Wally Whyrled.
Do your research.

For the Money, the warantee is hard to beat.

 

[Coyote machine]

Former foreign auto shop and used foreign vehicle dealer. Sold Interstate batteries for years. Have them in four Toyotas, 2 in my Mako boat, 1 in ATV, UTV, tractor, Dr. brush mower, Dr Trimmer/mower, 2 propane generators, etc.
You do not need or want a deep cycle; in fact I have 2 starting batteries now in my boat, instead of 2 deep cycle (for trolling motor, and 'house' battery for all electronics, etc.), and 2 starting, per consulting with Interstate recently. I also don't have a trolling motor anymore.

Loss of charge below 80% has a diminishing effect on batteries over time. Ideally one uses up to 20% of charge, for instance, boat use in a day's use, then plugs into charger and brings charge as close to 100% as can be accomplished. For batteries that sit a lot, using a 'maintainer' type like a 'battery tender' brand or similar is best. I would NOT have or leave a trickle charger on a battery for reasons already stated in this thread.

Interstate dealers do sell blems and reconditioned batteries with various warranties for significantly reduced prices in their stores; not necessarily in their independent dealer stores. See if there is a distributor store near you. That's where I get all mine, AGM, lead acid etc.

 

[California]

A clerk at Autozone told me he was farm-bred and they use Autozone's combo starting/deep cycle battery (I think intended for marine use) in combines etc that are used only seasonally, because this type of battery has different chemistry and less self-discharge. I bought one. It lasted only a couple of years of occasional use in my tractor. I suspect vibration, or driving over rough terrain, destroyed it internally. Went back to an automotive battery and no more problems.

Incidentally I just bought a car battery and O'Reilly was $20 less than Autozone for what I think is the same battery. Same specs, weight, warranty.

 

[goeduck]

I use hybrid deep cycle / starting batteries for seasonal equipment. My preference is the Optima yellow tops.
For Optima, Red top is starting, Yellow deep cycle / starting, and Blue is deep cycle.

That is what I use as well. Yellow tops, no issues.

 

[Egon]

[video]https://www.brp.ca/off-road/shop/accessories-ssv/electrical_electroni/electrical_accessories/battery-charger_maintainer-for-all.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sCfzMbO3QIVE4GzCh0GDQj 8EAQYASABEgLhqvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=COiEnvrGzt0CFRqoyAodkeYCjQ[/video]

A charger of this type would be preferred for long term maintenance.

Batteries are built to different standards. Rough service types are available for high vibration circumstances.

 

[check]

So How long should the OEM battery last? I have not changed my BX 25 battery since I bought it in 2008. 10 years now, and no problems. I use the tractor maybe 2 to 3 times a month year-round.

 

[vvanders]

Former foreign auto shop and used foreign vehicle dealer. Sold Interstate batteries for years. Have them in four Toyotas, 2 in my Mako boat, 1 in ATV, UTV, tractor, Dr. brush mower, Dr Trimmer/mower, 2 propane generators, etc.
You do not need or want a deep cycle; in fact I have 2 starting batteries now in my boat, instead of 2 deep cycle (for trolling motor, and 'house' battery for all electronics, etc.), and 2 starting, per consulting with Interstate recently. I also don't have a trolling motor anymore.

Loss of charge below 80% has a diminishing effect on batteries over time. Ideally one uses up to 20% of charge, for instance, boat use in a day's use, then plugs into charger and brings charge as close to 100% as can be accomplished. For batteries that sit a lot, using a 'maintainer' type like a 'battery tender' brand or similar is best. I would NOT have or leave a trickle charger on a battery for reasons already stated in this thread.

Interstate dealers do sell blems and reconditioned batteries with various warranties for significantly reduced prices in their stores; not necessarily in their independent dealer stores. See if there is a distributor store near you. That's where I get all mine, AGM, lead acid etc.

Keep in mind 20% thing only applies it lead acid. Li-ion/lifepo likes to stay between 10% to 90% and hates high/low temp. NiCad resets it's memory with full discharge cycle so it's important to understand this stuff if you're using one of the non standard chemistries.

 

[RjCorazza]

10 years is good service from any battery. The Kubota oem batteries seem to have a long service life in my experience.
Unfortunately older batteries go south quick when they go bad... usually the first cold weather start of the season.

 

[goeduck]

Battery life depends on many things, the charge level, the climate it is stored in, etc. I have a riding lawnmower that made it to 13 years and one in my pickup that made it to 16 years. Neither was in heated storage but our climate is mild. I always thought on average 10 years is acceptable.

 

[WranglerX]

I use my tractor several days per week in retirement, every week, so I do not share your issue.

Some post here that batteries last longest frequently partially discharged, then recharged, which is my situation.

Some postulate that a constant full battery charge is detrimental to long battery life.

Our temperate winters (LA/FL) place less demand on tractor batteries than cold winters in the north.

I buy Interstate brand batteries for my passenger vehicles, tractor and RTV500. They last me a l-o-n-g time.

I grease battery terminals with specialized dielectric grease. I have dipped grease out of one 6-ounce tub for ten years.

LINK: NO OX ID battery grease | eBay



I will be interested in reading other's opinions.

I am a battery consumer. I claim no special battery expertise.

NO-OX-ID.... Best stuff ever have had batteries go 7-8 years and no corrosion at all if battery terminals and cable properly cleaned before application.... If you warm it a bit, it apples easier...

Dale