Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,051  
I have a bushhog rotary cutter and a couple of large Z mowers but I purchased a 78" Woodmaxx flail mower today. Got the veteran dicount and maybe have in 2 weeks or so. Mainly going to knock down prairie grass and small saplings, I went with the Y blades
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,052  
I have a bushhog rotary cutter and a couple of large Z mowers but I purchased a 78" Woodmaxx flail mower today. Got the veteran dicount and maybe have in 2 weeks or so. Mainly going to knock down prairie grass and small saplings, I went with the Y blades

Veteran discount?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,056  
So my WoodMaxx FM-78 arrived last Friday and I put it to work this weekend. It did a fantastic job on most everything leaving lawnmower-sized clippings instead of the big clumps of grass the rotary cutter leaves. Mission accomplished there. My two fields weren't totally out of control, but they had not been cut this year. The only time the mower / tractor ever bogged down was hitting some big clumps of vasey grass. This only happened twice in ten acres. Everything else it just cut through without laboring. I was using my Kioti DK 45 SE (45 engine hp, 38 at the PTO). So far, with this limited experience I am happy.

I paid $35 extra for liftgate service and the trailer did come with a liftgate but it would have been very difficult for the driver to get it completely on the liftgate with his pallet jack. I just had him get as much of it on the lift as he could and I pulled the rest of it out with a chain as I lowered it with my FEL while he lowered the lift gate. Pallet forks would not have helped me much. Anyway, no biggie. Here it is after I got it to the house from the end of my long driveway.


flail 1.jpg

Now for some observations.

One factor in me going with WoodMaxx was that it was "in stock" and free shipping. I ordered it on Monday, April 23rd and it arrived on Friday May the 8th. That is four full business weeks which falls into what I was told when I ordered it , but it just seems a tad long, especially when they said it takes 7-10 days just to process the order.

It came with safety chain guards in front instead of the metal flaps pictured on their website. Not a problem, just and observation.

flail 2.jpg

The following IS a gripe and poor design. I loosened the roller so I could run the mower at max height at first. Well, as you pivot the roller down, the grease zerks WILL contact the skid plate if you don't have it set to the lowest position as well. This could shear off the nipple of a grease zerk (don?t ask me how I know).

flail 3.jpg

Another observation. Grass gets stuck on the ends of the roller. I had to take a screw driver and work at it for a few minutes to clear it. I might try flipping that nut and bolt over to give the grass less to catch on. If anyone else has an idea, let me know.

flail 5.jpg

But my major gripe is about the safety guard over the gear box slip clutch. I am a stickler for maintenance and hence I like to check things. Well the plug to check the gear oil level is on the front of the gear box. To get to it you must first remove the shield itself that is held on by four bolts. The nuts are not captured so you have to fenagle a wrench in from behind to be able to do this. Once that shield is removed you still cannot access the plug. You will need to remove the front of the shield which is held to the gear box by two bolts. I do not like removing guards, but for now, that guard is resting on my work bench until I can figure out a better way to check the gear oil level.

flail 4.jpg

Overall I give the mower and my experience with WoodMaxx a thumbs up at this point.

flail 6.jpg


PS , if you are in the Texas Gulf Coast area, I have a 6 foot, like new, galvanized brush hog for sale.

A169BD9B-9484-4B82-8A58-3D6760F8A7E8_zpsb7o2fmu4.jpg
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,057  
I first posted on the “Buying Advice” forum since I am looking for both a tractor and flail. Most of the responses there dealt with the tractor aspect, with only generalities about flail mowers. So I want to come here for more specific recommendations on flail mowers. Apologies to anyone who is rereading my background.

I am a complete newbie, never even owned a riding mower. My wife and I bought a 9 acre spread with house and pole barn 20 years ago as a retirement home. We rented out the house and paid someone to bush-hog the half of the fields twice a year for $500 a pop. Two other fields were being hayed by a neighbor, and another neighbor fenced in another pasture for their cow. Sometimes I would cut the sections of lawn with my push mower (4+ hours), sometimes hire someone. But now the cow is gone, the first neighbor is talking about moving further south, and we are in the house. I figure it is time for me to do the mowing.

The lawn is by no means pristine, so I'm hoping that I can get by doing most of it with the flail instead of using a regular mower, and don't want to spend the close-to-$2K for a belly mower. The fields are pretty clear, both rolling and flat, nowhere that I would term steep. Most of the fields have some trees, but not many. We've always had a bunch of honey locust saplings sprouting up which we then have to deal with by hand, so I figure more frequent mowing will help stop that. I'm not going to making new trails, pretty much maintaining the fields, so I shouldn't need anything heavy duty.

The grass is pretty high right now – was last bush-hogged 2 months ago.
front field.jpgside field.jpg

My wife was the one who first heard about flail mowers and they really appeal to us. I've been doing some research, found this forum, and have learned a lot. At this point I am thinking about either a Kubota B2601 or B2650 (PTO = 19.5 for either) with a FEL. Now I am leaning toward the smaller, less expensive tractor. For flails, I had been thinking about a WoodMaxx, but they are backed up on delivery. Some people in the forum like the Caroni flail a lot, plus it is in stock. The question is what width to go for, whether the 4’ version or the 5’ one (can anyone tell me why the smaller one is more expensive at Agri Supply?!?). Also given my PTO, I’d be going for the TL version. Leonz said to another poster to go with the 4’.

Given my application, I'm still unsure of which flail blades would be best. WoodMaxx says to use the duckfoot blades for clearing saplings (1" diameter or less), and the Y-blades for grasses, but I thought I read here that the duckfoot blades give a nice appearance to lawns. Does it make sense to spring for both set of knifes, based on the application?

Any comments, advice, and/or suggestions would all be appreciated. Now I need to convince my wife that spending $20K+- on the pair is money well spent.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,058  
Stuart.
I agree with you on your comments. The last item that I did was install the PTO guard. Sure would be nice if the nuts were already in place. The other items on your list would be on my list.
I found that using the standard 3ph hitch worked best for me. The floating points did not seem to work for me.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,059  
I first posted on the “Buying Advice” forum since I am looking for both a tractor and flail. Most of the responses there dealt with the tractor aspect, with only generalities about flail mowers. So I want to come here for more specific recommendations on flail mowers. Apologies to anyone who is rereading my background.

I am a complete newbie, never even owned a riding mower. My wife and I bought a 9 acre spread with house and pole barn 20 years ago as a retirement home. We rented out the house and paid someone to bush-hog the half of the fields twice a year for $500 a pop. Two other fields were being hayed by a neighbor, and another neighbor fenced in another pasture for their cow. Sometimes I would cut the sections of lawn with my push mower (4+ hours), sometimes hire someone. But now the cow is gone, the first neighbor is talking about moving further south, and we are in the house. I figure it is time for me to do the mowing.

The lawn is by no means pristine, so I'm hoping that I can get by doing most of it with the flail instead of using a regular mower, and don't want to spend the close-to-$2K for a belly mower. The fields are pretty clear, both rolling and flat, nowhere that I would term steep. Most of the fields have some trees, but not many. We've always had a bunch of honey locust saplings sprouting up which we then have to deal with by hand, so I figure more frequent mowing will help stop that. I'm not going to making new trails, pretty much maintaining the fields, so I shouldn't need anything heavy duty.

The grass is pretty high right now – was last bush-hogged 2 months ago.
View attachment 555102View attachment 555103

My wife was the one who first heard about flail mowers and they really appeal to us. I've been doing some research, found this forum, and have learned a lot. At this point I am thinking about either a Kubota B2601 or B2650 (PTO = 19.5 for either) with a FEL. Now I am leaning toward the smaller, less expensive tractor. For flails, I had been thinking about a WoodMaxx, but they are backed up on delivery. Some people in the forum like the Caroni flail a lot, plus it is in stock. The question is what width to go for, whether the 4’ version or the 5’ one (can anyone tell me why the smaller one is more expensive at Agri Supply?!?). Also given my PTO, I’d be going for the TL version. Leonz said to another poster to go with the 4’.

Given my application, I'm still unsure of which flail blades would be best. WoodMaxx says to use the duckfoot blades for clearing saplings (1" diameter or less), and the Y-blades for grasses, but I thought I read here that the duckfoot blades give a nice appearance to lawns. Does it make sense to spring for both set of knifes, based on the application?

Any comments, advice, and/or suggestions would all be appreciated. Now I need to convince my wife that spending $20K+- on the pair is money well spent.

I got the 5’ Woodmaxx with Y blades for my B2910. 22 PTO hp. Works well on 4 acres that has been cut every year with a rotary cutter. Going to take a few cuts to get all the mated grass chopped up with Flail Mower.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,060  
Stuart.
I agree with you on your comments. The last item that I did was install the PTO guard. Sure would be nice if the nuts were already in place. The other items on your list would be on my list.
I found that using the standard 3ph hitch worked best for me. The floating points did not seem to work for me.

Yes, I am not using any of the slots. My place is flat and I really don't need it to articulate over anything. I lowered it to the ground, used my level app on my phone to set the front of the mower higher than the rear with my top link then used the jamb nut to make sure the top link stayed fixed.

I had never used a flail mower before. You just don't see them where I live. I used WIDE turns when I could. When I needed to turn sharp, I'd lift the mower off the ground. It was nice to just lower the three point all the way when I was done turning without worrying what height I was mowing at.
 
 

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