Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,041  
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Hello Stuart,

Please do not use your drag harrow after the first mowing. The safest thing you can do with your flail mower if it has the scoop knives or side slicer knives is just mow at right angles to continue to mow the land as using the drag harrow is only going to plug it up with clippings and any existing rocks or limbs it may dig up.

Thanks. We'll see what things look like things look like after the first mowing. My problem is I have mats of dead grass from last year in spots. I'd really like to mow, hit it with a tedder then mow again. The grass is dry enough now that I think the flail would eat it up to small pieces. Zero rocks , stumps , limbs etc. It was / is a hay field established for years and years.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,042  
LZ... "just mow at right angles". (..or 45deg) I wish I wudda thought of that! I mentally go on auto-pilot and attempt to cut the straight of lines, year after year. Thanks.

Stuart: Here's what my pasture looks like this spring. I cut it 4-5 times last year and this is the first year (of 20+) my wife made a nice comment; "..waving in the breeze.". Usually it is full of gum trees seedlings and tons of different weeds already.

Jim

Pasture.jpg
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,043  
I work for a non profit farm/orchard and was just put in charge of purchasing a tractor and implements. I know basically nothing about any of these things, 3 point hitches etc. Anyways, I got a Caroni TL 1200 flail mower with a kubota bx2680 When I moved the top link pin on the mower end from the hole to the slot, to allow for a better mow on uneven terrain, the pin slid out on the side with the cotter pin, warping the cotter pin in the process. Apart from the cottter pin, It doesnt look like anything is damaged, but Im wondering what Im doing wrong, how to avoid the pin angling and sliding out. Thanks for any help.

You didn't say whether you put a pin in the cotter pin to secure it from sliding out.
In any case, if what you are describing is the ball end of the top link swiveling around and allowing the pin to escape into the slot (?) then you need to shorten its effective length.
Washers may be needed on both sides of the pin, quite possibly a LOT of washers to "pack it out" and thereby keep it straight.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,044  
No worries Jim,

Wait and see how much fuel and time you save when you start mowing in a spiral in the center of the pasture block=lots!!
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,045  
Could someone address the speed of cutting flail vs rotary?

There is an old formula that uses width in inches (minus overlap) and speed in MPH to figure acres per hour for any/every field work, whether plowing, tilling, mowing, spreading, etc.

I *THOUGHT* it was a simple multiply of the two, but can't remember the factor that product has to be divided by.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,047  
Got my Woodmaxx FM62H Wednesday. Assembled it yesterday and did a couple rounds on my back 2 acres. Set it up high for first couple of cuts. Area has been cut by my rotary cutter for years. Sure makes a lot of noise until all the blades are out to full extension as rpm's build up. After that it runs smooth and quiet. Going to finish cutting my place an neighbors today.
Going to use lower part of metal crate that it arrived in as dolly for mower. Just need to add some bolts and dolly wheels.
View attachment 554793
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,048  
Looks good Ron. My WoodMaxx FM-78 is supposed to be here today. Just waiting for the call from Yellow Freight saying they are on the way.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,049  
Ron, yours is the same unit as mine and you are going to like it very much. Be sure to engage the PTO when engine is at idle, then slowly increase RPM to get your PTO speed up. You may be doing this already but as you mentioned the knives being noisy during engagement, I wanted to mention this.

Ricn
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,050  
Noisy knives (or hammers) on spin up & spin down are a nature of the beast. My new Peruzzo with hammers is better (they only have 1 pivot point), but still makes a fair racket as it moves from gravity being the dominant force to centrifical/centripetal action taking over. My old Ford 917 with side slicers is worse. With 2-3 pivot points per knife or shackle there is just more motion.

Occasionally one of the side slicers will catch on the shackle at an odd angle where it can't straighten out. It will make a bit of a racket after everything else straightens out. Sometimes stopping things then spinning back up will straighten things out. Occasionally I have to shut it all down, wait for everything to come to a complete stop then reach under & un-twist a knife. Takes a lot longer to shut everything down & look for the tangled knife than untwist it though.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,051  
I have a bushhog rotary cutter and a couple of large Z mowers but I purchased a 78" Woodmaxx flail mower today. Got the veteran dicount and maybe have in 2 weeks or so. Mainly going to knock down prairie grass and small saplings, I went with the Y blades
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,052  
I have a bushhog rotary cutter and a couple of large Z mowers but I purchased a 78" Woodmaxx flail mower today. Got the veteran dicount and maybe have in 2 weeks or so. Mainly going to knock down prairie grass and small saplings, I went with the Y blades

Veteran discount?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,056  
So my WoodMaxx FM-78 arrived last Friday and I put it to work this weekend. It did a fantastic job on most everything leaving lawnmower-sized clippings instead of the big clumps of grass the rotary cutter leaves. Mission accomplished there. My two fields weren't totally out of control, but they had not been cut this year. The only time the mower / tractor ever bogged down was hitting some big clumps of vasey grass. This only happened twice in ten acres. Everything else it just cut through without laboring. I was using my Kioti DK 45 SE (45 engine hp, 38 at the PTO). So far, with this limited experience I am happy.

I paid $35 extra for liftgate service and the trailer did come with a liftgate but it would have been very difficult for the driver to get it completely on the liftgate with his pallet jack. I just had him get as much of it on the lift as he could and I pulled the rest of it out with a chain as I lowered it with my FEL while he lowered the lift gate. Pallet forks would not have helped me much. Anyway, no biggie. Here it is after I got it to the house from the end of my long driveway.


flail 1.jpg

Now for some observations.

One factor in me going with WoodMaxx was that it was "in stock" and free shipping. I ordered it on Monday, April 23rd and it arrived on Friday May the 8th. That is four full business weeks which falls into what I was told when I ordered it , but it just seems a tad long, especially when they said it takes 7-10 days just to process the order.

It came with safety chain guards in front instead of the metal flaps pictured on their website. Not a problem, just and observation.

flail 2.jpg

The following IS a gripe and poor design. I loosened the roller so I could run the mower at max height at first. Well, as you pivot the roller down, the grease zerks WILL contact the skid plate if you don't have it set to the lowest position as well. This could shear off the nipple of a grease zerk (don?t ask me how I know).

flail 3.jpg

Another observation. Grass gets stuck on the ends of the roller. I had to take a screw driver and work at it for a few minutes to clear it. I might try flipping that nut and bolt over to give the grass less to catch on. If anyone else has an idea, let me know.

flail 5.jpg

But my major gripe is about the safety guard over the gear box slip clutch. I am a stickler for maintenance and hence I like to check things. Well the plug to check the gear oil level is on the front of the gear box. To get to it you must first remove the shield itself that is held on by four bolts. The nuts are not captured so you have to fenagle a wrench in from behind to be able to do this. Once that shield is removed you still cannot access the plug. You will need to remove the front of the shield which is held to the gear box by two bolts. I do not like removing guards, but for now, that guard is resting on my work bench until I can figure out a better way to check the gear oil level.

flail 4.jpg

Overall I give the mower and my experience with WoodMaxx a thumbs up at this point.

flail 6.jpg


PS , if you are in the Texas Gulf Coast area, I have a 6 foot, like new, galvanized brush hog for sale.

A169BD9B-9484-4B82-8A58-3D6760F8A7E8_zpsb7o2fmu4.jpg
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,057  
I first posted on the “Buying Advice” forum since I am looking for both a tractor and flail. Most of the responses there dealt with the tractor aspect, with only generalities about flail mowers. So I want to come here for more specific recommendations on flail mowers. Apologies to anyone who is rereading my background.

I am a complete newbie, never even owned a riding mower. My wife and I bought a 9 acre spread with house and pole barn 20 years ago as a retirement home. We rented out the house and paid someone to bush-hog the half of the fields twice a year for $500 a pop. Two other fields were being hayed by a neighbor, and another neighbor fenced in another pasture for their cow. Sometimes I would cut the sections of lawn with my push mower (4+ hours), sometimes hire someone. But now the cow is gone, the first neighbor is talking about moving further south, and we are in the house. I figure it is time for me to do the mowing.

The lawn is by no means pristine, so I'm hoping that I can get by doing most of it with the flail instead of using a regular mower, and don't want to spend the close-to-$2K for a belly mower. The fields are pretty clear, both rolling and flat, nowhere that I would term steep. Most of the fields have some trees, but not many. We've always had a bunch of honey locust saplings sprouting up which we then have to deal with by hand, so I figure more frequent mowing will help stop that. I'm not going to making new trails, pretty much maintaining the fields, so I shouldn't need anything heavy duty.

The grass is pretty high right now – was last bush-hogged 2 months ago.
front field.jpgside field.jpg

My wife was the one who first heard about flail mowers and they really appeal to us. I've been doing some research, found this forum, and have learned a lot. At this point I am thinking about either a Kubota B2601 or B2650 (PTO = 19.5 for either) with a FEL. Now I am leaning toward the smaller, less expensive tractor. For flails, I had been thinking about a WoodMaxx, but they are backed up on delivery. Some people in the forum like the Caroni flail a lot, plus it is in stock. The question is what width to go for, whether the 4’ version or the 5’ one (can anyone tell me why the smaller one is more expensive at Agri Supply?!?). Also given my PTO, I’d be going for the TL version. Leonz said to another poster to go with the 4’.

Given my application, I'm still unsure of which flail blades would be best. WoodMaxx says to use the duckfoot blades for clearing saplings (1" diameter or less), and the Y-blades for grasses, but I thought I read here that the duckfoot blades give a nice appearance to lawns. Does it make sense to spring for both set of knifes, based on the application?

Any comments, advice, and/or suggestions would all be appreciated. Now I need to convince my wife that spending $20K+- on the pair is money well spent.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,058  
Stuart.
I agree with you on your comments. The last item that I did was install the PTO guard. Sure would be nice if the nuts were already in place. The other items on your list would be on my list.
I found that using the standard 3ph hitch worked best for me. The floating points did not seem to work for me.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,059  
I first posted on the “Buying Advice” forum since I am looking for both a tractor and flail. Most of the responses there dealt with the tractor aspect, with only generalities about flail mowers. So I want to come here for more specific recommendations on flail mowers. Apologies to anyone who is rereading my background.

I am a complete newbie, never even owned a riding mower. My wife and I bought a 9 acre spread with house and pole barn 20 years ago as a retirement home. We rented out the house and paid someone to bush-hog the half of the fields twice a year for $500 a pop. Two other fields were being hayed by a neighbor, and another neighbor fenced in another pasture for their cow. Sometimes I would cut the sections of lawn with my push mower (4+ hours), sometimes hire someone. But now the cow is gone, the first neighbor is talking about moving further south, and we are in the house. I figure it is time for me to do the mowing.

The lawn is by no means pristine, so I'm hoping that I can get by doing most of it with the flail instead of using a regular mower, and don't want to spend the close-to-$2K for a belly mower. The fields are pretty clear, both rolling and flat, nowhere that I would term steep. Most of the fields have some trees, but not many. We've always had a bunch of honey locust saplings sprouting up which we then have to deal with by hand, so I figure more frequent mowing will help stop that. I'm not going to making new trails, pretty much maintaining the fields, so I shouldn't need anything heavy duty.

The grass is pretty high right now – was last bush-hogged 2 months ago.
View attachment 555102View attachment 555103

My wife was the one who first heard about flail mowers and they really appeal to us. I've been doing some research, found this forum, and have learned a lot. At this point I am thinking about either a Kubota B2601 or B2650 (PTO = 19.5 for either) with a FEL. Now I am leaning toward the smaller, less expensive tractor. For flails, I had been thinking about a WoodMaxx, but they are backed up on delivery. Some people in the forum like the Caroni flail a lot, plus it is in stock. The question is what width to go for, whether the 4’ version or the 5’ one (can anyone tell me why the smaller one is more expensive at Agri Supply?!?). Also given my PTO, I’d be going for the TL version. Leonz said to another poster to go with the 4’.

Given my application, I'm still unsure of which flail blades would be best. WoodMaxx says to use the duckfoot blades for clearing saplings (1" diameter or less), and the Y-blades for grasses, but I thought I read here that the duckfoot blades give a nice appearance to lawns. Does it make sense to spring for both set of knifes, based on the application?

Any comments, advice, and/or suggestions would all be appreciated. Now I need to convince my wife that spending $20K+- on the pair is money well spent.

I got the 5’ Woodmaxx with Y blades for my B2910. 22 PTO hp. Works well on 4 acres that has been cut every year with a rotary cutter. Going to take a few cuts to get all the mated grass chopped up with Flail Mower.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,060  
Stuart.
I agree with you on your comments. The last item that I did was install the PTO guard. Sure would be nice if the nuts were already in place. The other items on your list would be on my list.
I found that using the standard 3ph hitch worked best for me. The floating points did not seem to work for me.

Yes, I am not using any of the slots. My place is flat and I really don't need it to articulate over anything. I lowered it to the ground, used my level app on my phone to set the front of the mower higher than the rear with my top link then used the jamb nut to make sure the top link stayed fixed.

I had never used a flail mower before. You just don't see them where I live. I used WIDE turns when I could. When I needed to turn sharp, I'd lift the mower off the ground. It was nice to just lower the three point all the way when I was done turning without worrying what height I was mowing at.
 
 

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