Soft cab to hold me over?

[dan8152]

Saving up for a new tractor with a cab, but this year winter has been brutal so far. i have seen those heater cabs and soft cabs for $1500 or less.
are they good?

one is $1500 with top and glass windows and one is the same price but goes over the canopy on a tractor (may get one)

I thought about a curtis or sims cab but they are $3000 plus and look like they were made in the 1950's and after looking at one in person not the best design and to get a descent one it's $5000 so better to just upgrade tractor with one made for it.


this one is the same tractor as mine with a plastic top and glass front and rear with soft doors
$1500

this one goes over the rops canopy and is like boat canvas and priced the same

I'm looking for a lower cost alternative for snowblowing to keep a little bit warmer. my driveway is 1/4 mile long

 

[KennyG]

If you want a soft cab, go with Original Tractor Cab. Excellent quality, US made. I've had mine for 5 or 6 years and it's in perfect condition. I don't know current prices but mine was less than $900.

 

[aczlan]

If you want a soft cab, go with Original Tractor Cab. Excellent quality, US made. I've had mine for 5 or 6 years and it's in perfect condition. I don't know current prices but mine was less than $900.

We had one at the hotel I used to work at, one nice thing is that the doors are actual swinging doors, not a zipper opening like 99% of the soft cabs out there. I think it was 700-800ish for the cab with a glass front window and a wiper.
On our L3830, we just picked up a golf cart enclosure (this one: Amazon.com : Black Golf Cart Driving Enclosure 2 Seater Heavy duty, fits E Z GO, Club Car and Yamaha G model - All Weather : Sports & Outdoors ) and put it over the canopy. That blocks 90% of the snow and works pretty well IMO.

Aaron Z

 

[George the Beagle]

I have an Original cab, which I believe is your first pic. It's on its seventh winter and second tractor now and still works well. Sure, I'd love to have a Curtis, but they are just way to pricey. Plus, I have to remove my cab in the summer for mowing, which you really can't do with a Curtis--once they're on, they're on. Be sure to get the glass windshield with the Original; worth the extra money. I also spec'd the wiper, but you can get along fine without it with a coat of Rain-x.

 

[RjCorazza]

Anything that keeps the wind and snow off you is going to be awesome. I also would recommend glass front for better visibility. I looked for a curtis hard cab for my previous L3410 and was not able to find one, nor would the company respond to my inquiries.
After 13 years of open station winter misery I got a factory cabbed L4060... very cozy, and worth saving for.

 

[AStanton]

I too think anything that provides an air lock is a good way to go. As far as a heater goes, the propane tank ones for golf carts work pretty good. Personally, I find the factory cab of my B3030 to be too hot with the heater fan running. I generally operate it with the fan off and the two vent windows open. This past storm was an exception, however. I ran the fan and the vent windows closed--it was about 9 degree F and 30mph winds.

 

[mike69440]

I have an Original cab, which I believe is your first pic. It's on its seventh winter and second tractor now and still works well. Sure, I'd love to have a Curtis, but they are just way to pricey. Plus, I have to remove my cab in the summer for mowing, which you really can't do with a Curtis--once they're on, they're on. Be sure to get the glass windshield with the Original; worth the extra money. I also spec'd the wiper, but you can get along fine without it with a coat of Rain-x.

I Agree. The entry doors are larger. that alone is worth any extra cost.
PS
I backed into a branch and punched a small hole in the back panel window of mine. Crap.

I don't know how I survived without a soft cab.

 

[Byrdnyrd]

Dan,
I have an Original Tractor cab on my BX2370 and it痴 awesome! Worth every penny. I had an OTC on my Wheelhorse for almost 20 years and it was still mint.

It makes ALL the difference to be out of the wind.

It takes me about an hour to install the cab in the Fall and about an hour to take it off in the Spring!

The OTC people are great to deal with as well- do it, youlll be happy and warm!

Cheers,
BN

 

[robertm]

Dan,
I have an Original Tractor cab on my BX2370 and it痴 awesome! Worth every penny. I had an OTC on my Wheelhorse for almost 20 years and it was still mint.

It makes ALL the difference to be out of the wind.

It takes me about an hour to install the cab in the Fall and about an hour to take it off in the Spring!

The OTC people are great to deal with as well- do it, youlll be happy and warm!

Cheers,
BN

So glad to hear this. By next winter, I will have an OTC on my BX2670. Can you tell if the wipers are worth the extra cost? What are you heating with? I think I'll need a rear wiper with the rear snowblower, but I think if I go with a heated enclosure, I may sell the rear blower, use the FEL and a rear blade. Then, it won't matter how long it'll take me to clear snow, as some have said here.

 

[George the Beagle]

OTC cabs aren't available with a glass rear window, so of course no wiper. As I said, I have a wiper for the front but rarely use it; RainX does a good job. You will need hearing protection. I have no heat, but dress accordingly, heavy boots, hat, gloves, although I often don't have to use the gloves. You don't have to wear a snowmobile suit or similar when you have a cab. This past storm was one of the most challenging. I use a front mount blower and the wind was whipping snow all over the place. I occasionally had to stop because I couldn't see anything, but I was completely protected inside the cab. Installation is sort of a nuisance in the fall, but worth it; takes about an hour. It'll take you longer the first time. When I swapped my BX 1860 for the BX 2370 the cab didn't quite fit but the Original folks were easy to work with and sent me the parts I needed.

 

[dan8152]

thanks for all the replies! I'm wishing the OTC were closer to $1000 but for the L2501 it's closer to $1500. I found one that goes over a sun shade but it starts at 1400 and if you add glass windows and wipers it jumps to around $2000. Hoping to not spend over $1000 but not sure I want to spend $1500 now. I saw a curtis and sims hard cab and didn't even think they were worth $1500 but I get inflation.

Do the OTC cabs block the floor too? Or can wind blow up the floorboards? Anyone have a view from the back? I have a rear mount snowblower and a 1/4 driveway.
The more I look at prices I may just stick to original plan and sell the L2501 and get a cab tractor for my property.

Really wish I did not sell my larger 75hp cab tractor that I thought was too big. It sold for more than I paid for it. I sold it so fast and was hoping to sell the kubota just as fast and get a nice inbetween cab tractor but the Kubota lost so much value in a year that I'm planning on selling in maybe year two or 3 since they drop in value around the same.

 

[Byrdnyrd]

Robert,
I have a glass front window with a wiper but I rarely use it. I also made a æ³¥ashboard up high and mounted switches for the Lights, Wiper, electric schnozzel control and strobes.

I find that I really don稚 need heat, we just went through a spell of single digit weather and a 16 snowstorm. The only thing that gets cold is my right hand on the joystick. I use 滴othands glove heaters and that痴 plenty.
The cab fits amazingly well, I have a beam mounted hoist in my garage so installation and removal is pretty easy, I keep the entire unit assembled so I just have to drop it on the tractor, itç—´ literally 8 nuts!

I致e looked at adding a heater, but I’m not sure it’s worth the effort!

Itç—´ the perfect setup for me because I use the machine all summer to do the lawn.

Cheers,
BN

Sorry about the Greek letters, looks like this forum doesn’t like apostrophe s

 

[robertm]

Thanks gents. My biggest issue is wind. My drive isn't that big, but we have nothing blocking the wind, and if I have to rear blow a path out the driveway into the wind to allow me to blow back with the wind, I will be covered with snow.
I use my BX primarily for mowing, so the factory hard cab (not air conditioned) is not an option for me.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Anybody have a softcab from CoverMyTractor. A little more expensive but I already have a kubota canopy, that I really like.

 

[mike69440]

Anybody have a softcab from CoverMyTractor. A little more expensive but I already have a kubota canopy, that I really like.

Yes, Door entry is difficult. They have a $300 door option, I'm not sure if it is better.

 

[Mendonsy]

I have an Original cab, which I believe is your first pic. It's on its seventh winter and second tractor now and still works well. Sure, I'd love to have a Curtis, but they are just way to pricey. Plus, I have to remove my cab in the summer for mowing, which you really can't do with a Curtis--once they're on, they're on. Be sure to get the glass windshield with the Original; worth the extra money. I also spec'd the wiper, but you can get along fine without it with a coat of Rain-x.

QUESTION: Is the OTC cab made so that the doors can be removed and the rest left in place??

 

[Travelover]

I also used a golf cart cab for a couple years until I sold my tractor. Once you block the wind and blowing snow, you hardly even need a heater. I made a heater from a car heater core and it honestly was too hot most of the time. To block the bottom, I picked up some heavy truck rubber mudflaps and cut them to mostly seal the bottom. Most of the wind is sideways, so bottom sealing was not essential. Lot of comfort for $100.

 

[KennyG]

QUESTION: Is the OTC cab made so that the doors can be removed and the rest left in place??

Yes. You just flex the door and pop the rod out of the hinge. No tools and takes seconds.

 

[aczlan]

I also used a golf cart cab for a couple years until I sold my tractor. Once you block the wind and blowing snow, you hardly even need a heater. I made a heater from a car heater core and it honestly was too hot most of the time. To block the bottom, I picked up some heavy truck rubber mudflaps and cut them to mostly seal the bottom. Most of the wind is sideways, so bottom sealing was not essential. Lot of comfort for $100.

How did you block along the sides at the front? That is my issue, I need to block from the knees and down for the one on our L3830.

Aaron Z

 

[dan8152]

anyone try going to a boat canvas guy? We had really nice canvas on our sailboat back in the day. Price for a small cab would be very little I'm thinking. And the plastic windows were pretty clear and durrable,