kioti dk40se stuck clutch

[jaroban]

I started this post with a tractor that would not turn over. The
reason that it would not turn over was because the bell housing
was half full of water (at least 1/2 gallon). The starter solenoid
was shot. I rebuilt the starter and bought a new solenoid. The tractor
will start and run fine now. The problem I am having now is the clutch
is engaged against the flywheel. I am the second owner.
I have not had the tractor under water. The previous owner stored it
out doors. I store it in a barn. I found the drain plug and drained it.
I drug my tractor all over my property yesterday. The clutch was depressed.
I put it in high range 2 gear. The tires on the tractor would not
Turn. I then went to 3 gear the tires would turn. I drug it about five hundred
Yards with no luck. This tractor only has around 70 hours on it. I really do not
Want to split it if I can avoid it. I also engage the front differential. Any ideas
on getting it disengaged?
There is an access hole on the right side of the tractor in the bell housing.
If I start the tractor and spray Break clean on the clutch while it is spinning
do you see a problem with that? The only other access that I can find
is where the starter mounts up and the drain plug. this tractor does have loader on it.
If I remove it are there more access holes behind the loader brackets?

Robby

 

[Btown]

I would not spray anything on a clutch. I hate to say it, but it looks like you will be splitting and doing a clutch. 1/2 gallon of water is a half gallon too much. Before some one bought that tractor it spends its whole life outside on a lot somewhere. Sitting outside is not the best, but it should not collect water there.

 

[DieselBound]

I'd think that at this point you might have nothing to lose other than trying brake clean. If I'm understanding correctly, the clutch disk is essentially rusted to the flywheel and pressure plate. Once you get any movement here it shouldn't be too long before you can burnish off that rust. Biggest concern, I'd think, would be the throwout bearing; if it's froze up then you're probably going to have to tear things apart.

 

[jaroban]

I have owned four tractors in my life time. And many standard
Automobiles. I have never come across one that has a drain
Plug. All have had weep holes.

At this point I se I have nothing to loose by spraying anything on that
Clutch. If it does not come loose I still have to split it. I was even considering
Putting the drain plug back in and filling the bell with diesel and let it spin for
Awhile. Then going back with break clean.

 

[xcgreene]

I would spray brake clean on it while it is not running, while its spinning, i dont think it would really get in there well.

Also, another abstract thought I'm thinking out loud here. With the tractor off. Fill up the bell housing with vinegar, completely, then let sit for a few hours, and drain. Vinegar is a great brake cleaner and is cheap if you need this much volume of it. Things to watch out for here are vinegar leaking into transmission or engine, but I think this is unlikely, just be very very sure you do not pressurize the bell-housing with this vinegar in any way.

It is my opinion that you need to split the tractor, but should you be struggling with the resources and time required for this, I can appreciate your search for an alternative that may get you by.

 

[Kioti Paul]

If I were facing your dilemma, I would start the tractor in gear (clear path straight ahead, of course). Then, with the clutch pedal fully depressed (my DK45sc has a 'hook' that will hold the clutch pedal depressed), I would try to load up the engine as best as I could. If you could hook up a brush hog, and find some tall weeds, you should be able to force the engine to develop full power for an extended period (perhaps an occasional hard application of brakes??). I would bet that once everything got up to operating temp, a few minutes at full power would 'pop' the clutch disk loose. This is assuming the clutch linkage, and throwout bearing is actually releasing the pressure off the disk.

Good Luck!

Let us know what you end up doing.

 

[jaroban]

I will try the vinegar method this afternoon. I probably will not get to run the tractor until Saturday. I have a box blade on the tractor. If I can get it started and in gear. I will drag that box until the tractor stops if I have to after I get it warmed up.
This tractor has a switch that turns the PTO on and off.
Since the pto is not directly hooked to the clutch do I need to use an Implement that uses the PTO?

 

[jaroban]

I had another thought. Is there a way to start the tractor in gear? I know I can pull start it in gear. But after I start pulling it with another vehicle it’s hard to get it unhooked from the vehicle with the tractor still in motion.

Robby

 

[Kioti Paul]

I really am not 'up' on many tractors other than my particular DK45 (I think maybe a 2008 model??) My tractor requires the clutch to be depressed before the starter will engage; but there is no requirement to be in neutral (or any particular gear).

I haven't actually tried it, but I feel strongly that the starter would have no trouble spinning the engine while simultaneously propelling the tractor in high range, 1st gear. If it does strain the starter, you could always drop to mid range - but it would make it harder to put the engine in a strain.

I would probably 1st warm up the engine a little in neutral (& be sure to raise the box blade), just to make it a bit easier starting for "when it counts".

I don't think my box blade would lug down my engine, except in the higher gears (I would expect the engine will need to be at, or near, full throttle at some point), but my blade is pretty small, & you know much better how hard it is to pull your blade.

Please don't unhook while in motion...it sounds real scary to me! Your not going to be able to stop quickly!

I see your point about the PTO implement. My tractor is the same way. I obviously didn't think that through!!

It sounds like you have a second person for help?? If the blade doesn't work the engine hard enough, you could chain the truck to the blade (make sure the blade is up, and plenty of slack in the chain while starting the engine) Perhaps the truck driver could have the truck creeping forward, in order to prevent the chain from 'snapping' tight. Once you have everything going smoothly, give the engine full throttle & drop the blade. If the weight of the truck doesn't load up the engine enough, the truck driver could smoothly add brakes.

Although I would want to "work the engine" hard; I wouldn't want to 'lug' it down; as long as the engine is at 'full' throttle, and is maybe 300/400 below "full" RPM, then you know the governor has the throttle wide open, & the engine is spinning fast enough to produce max HP

Anyway, those are just my thoughts on your situation. Everyone has to decide for themselves what is, or is not, a good idea.

Good Luck!

 

[BTI]

I posted this in your other thread but thought if anyone ever searched for something like this down the road, it might be more helpful here.

Drive tractor, get it good and hot. Then block the clutch pedal down. Let it sit overnight. Then do it again.
Alot of times the dissimilar materials will allow the clutch and flywheel to separate.
You have an extreme circumstance that is for sure.
You also might want to take the starter back off and aim a heater at the hole in the bellhousing so you can make sure it is dry.
Leave clutch blocked down while doing this.

 

[KYErik]

I would cut a block of wood to hold the clutch pedal down and then start it in neutral and let everything warm up and run awhile. Vibrations from the engine may help work it loose over time. Leave the block of wood on the pedal all the time.

Adding vinegar or brake cleaner is worth a try- it couldn't be any worse than water sitting in there for months. Put it in high gear and have another tractor just tug/push on you a little- just a few inches back and forth.

 

[dfkrug]

The problem I am having now is the clutch
is engaged against the flywheel. I am the second owner.
I have not had the tractor under water.

I suspect the previous owner or the dealer had this unit under water, Robby.

Regardless, you will have no problem starting your tractor in low gear. You can
also raise the loader with the starter motor. I have done both on tractors I was
fixing. Then you can drive it around under high load (hi range) with the pedal in
as others have suggested. Spraying with a solvent can't hurt.

Do you know if your DK has a dual clutch? I suspect not, as the SE went to an
electric PTO clutch. My own experience with a rusted-on dry clutch was that
they were only separateable with hammer and chisel.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I would not use Diesel fuel or other oil or the clutch friction material might be ruined forever (slipping clutch).

The PTO is totally independent of the main clutch, so it's not relevant to this problem. For the information of others, the PTO has a multi-disk wet clutch that is hydraulically engaged via an electric solenoid valve.

Vinegar may work. It is a surprisingly strong (for household stuff) acid. If you do this you probably want to neutralize the bell housing after the fact. Probably rinse with water, followed by a dilute baking soda rinse, and then water again.

I think the key may be keeping the clutch unloaded (disengaged) all the time until this is solved, like BTI said. Also push-pull with another vehicle may work better than just pulling.

My DK45s also has a drain plug and scheduled maintenance includes annual draining, as I recall. Mine has always been dry but I keep my tractor under cover and have never forded deep water. My DK also has a latch to hold the clutch disengaged. I don't recall the reason for this but it would make sense under freezing conditions (like not using parking brake on a car in winter).

Good luck.

 

[jaroban]

I got tied up tonight could not do anything on the tractor. Most likely I won稚 get to do anything until Saturday. I can pull starter off and put a heater in it that is easy enough.

 

[jaroban]

Wow thanks everyone for all of the input. I will get started
Early Saturday morning. I will keep you posted on progress.
Thanks again

 

[jaroban]

Thanks to all the response from TBN members.

This tractor does not have a dual stage clutch . This tractor does have a hold down latch to keep the clutch disengaged. This tractor has a lever that has Forward , reverse with neutral in between. THe tractor will not start unless this lever is in neutral.

I’m going to start with the vinegar on Saturday morning for two hours then rotate the flywheel clutch pressure plate 180° for two more hours. I will then rinse with water baking soda water then drain.
I then will start tractor in neutral let it warm up.

My dilemma is how do I start the tractor in gear without pulling the tractor? I am very leery of trying to unhook A chain while both Machines are moving.

I would like to drag a box blade around for quite some time until I get the tractor warmed up or hot. After that if that doesn’t work pull it back and forth with another vehicle. If it doesn’t disengaged I will let it sit overnight cool down hopefully the two different materials will come apart from each other during a temperature change.

 

[GMIslander]

My old 9N would stick the clutch plate to the flywheel. The first time it happened I split the tractor to fix the problem. While it was apart I discovered a hole 1/2" or 5/8" had been drilled in the side of the bell housing at approx. nine o'clock. The hole was located so you could get a chisel or screwdriver in to release the clutch plate. I used the hole to release a stuck clutch more than one once after that.

 

[jaroban]

My tractor has such a holes three o’clock. It is so you can check the timing. I do not think I can see the clutch plate though. I will look this evening.

 

[cabin kioti]

I have a CK30HST, AC wd45, and a 8n.Had the same problem on my wd45 thought the clutch was stuck fast to the flywheel and it turned out the linkage was broken and when I thought I was engaging the clutch I was not. someone had put another spring on the linkage and when I pushed in on the clutch I felt pressure. It took a while to figure out . On my 8 n bought it a while back for parts and last winter I needed a winter project . When I started checking the tractor out the bell housing was half full of water and there is a weep hole at the bottom of the clutch housing that was blocked up with gunk. The rear wheels were locked up and, clutch splines were rusted tight to the transmission input shaft. God only knows how long this tractor was outside before I got it. Make sure the clutch linkage is disengaging the clutch and not broken. Everyone has good ideas but the brake cleaner worked best for me. Good luck.

 

[Gittyup]

Following with interest. I was told to keep the pedal latched down and the brake off whenever not in use. I've heeded that advise as long as I've own the tractor (~12 years). And I don't go into water or leave it out in the weather. Anyhow good luck. I hope you have success. Some one word cockamamie liquid alternatives: rust dissolver like rustoleum, freeze spray, kroil,