Mowing JD X300 transmission problems

[crazyal]

Tuff Torq makes the transmission. They are the ones who say no service is required for the life of it. Shouldn't you be mad at them? There's lots of information here and elsewhere on the internet from people having problems. The solution is pretty basic. After the first 50 hours of service and every 200 hours after that you need to remove it from the mower so you can drain the old oil and fill it with synthetic. Sure it's a lot of work but it's better and cheaper than driving it until it dies and then rebuilding it. I'm not trying to be sarcastic, just practical.

 

[bmg88201]

BMG - when you pull your old K46 out take a picture of it and drain the oil in it and describe it like black white etc. We can be objective on possibly why it went bad.

I will try to remember to take some pics of the fluid out of the tranny, I have almost no free time right now. Not to get off topic but I am an RN at a VA hospital and we are now receiving veterans from Houston and am working 7 days a week 12-16 hours a day. But I would not have it any other way, to have the honor of taking care of those who are willing to sacrifice all for me and you.

I am glad I found this site for advice and information on my mower.

 

[Hill-Billy]

It sounds like you clearly know your trans-axle is broken and I'm not here to change your mind, only offer my experience with the X300.
I have (2) experiences working on (2) different X300 lawn tractors that were diagnosed with a broken trans-axle. Both times I found that the splines on the ID of the trans-axle belt sheave wore out and the belt sheave was free-wheeling on the (vertical) trans-axle shaft. This makes it appear that the trans-axle is broken because the tractor will not move in either direction. The only way to tell if this is what happened, is to disassemble and remove the tractor seat and foot pan to gain access to this. The sheave is on the top of the trans-axle (under the white plastic fan).
Then you can see if the belt sheave is free-wheeling on the shaft (sheave moves and shaft does not move).
If this is the case, then a new sheave is about $50. If you find this is your issue, I have pics and step by step instructions that I made while I did this. I can send them to you if you like.
Again, if you already checked for this, my apologies and ignore my post.

 

[RBLapham]

The only way to tell if this is what happened, is to disassemble and remove the tractor seat and foot pan to gain access to this. The sheave is on the top of the trans-axle (under the white plastic fan).
Then you can see if the belt sheave is free-wheeling on the shaft (sheave moves and shaft does not move).
If this is the case, then a new sheave is about $50. If you find this is your issue, I have pics and step by step instructions that I made while I did this. I can send them to you if you like.
Again, if you already checked for this, my apologies and ignore my post.

Might be easier to just pull the K46 out - remove wheels, 5 bolts and 3 clips - see my link posted in #15 here to change the K46 oil. Would also be a great time to change the oil while you are at it.

 

[bmg88201]

Might be easier to just pull the K46 out - remove wheels, 5 bolts and 3 clips - see my link posted in #15 here to change the K46 oil. Would also be a great time to change the oil while you are at it.

Just getting ready for my work shift but went out to my shop and checked the tranny sheave on top of the fan (I haven't removed the transmission yet, no time). OMG, the sheave is stripped out. OK, all y'all can now roll your eyes at me. I feel so stupid, why didn't I think to check this first before all this worry, before buying that used $100 K46. Now I have two K46's. All I did was remove tension spring on the drive belt then the small black slotted grill at the back of the mower and reach in with a pair of snap-ring pliers and removed the sheave. It was stripped out, the trans-axle splined shaft was undamaged.

Now everyone knows I rode the short bus in school, oh well. Next, will replace the stripped out sheave to see if that worked. If so, I will still drop the transmission and change the fluid. then I will change the fluid on the $100 slightly used transmission I just bought and put it up for a rainy day.


I am sorry I wasted everyone's time, but once again, I am grateful for the help.

 

[plowhog]

I hope I get so lucky should I have have a "blown" trans or similar problem. Good for you!

And I'd be very grateful having a spare K46-- you might even be able to sell that for a profit?

 

[jenkinsph]

It sounds like you clearly know your trans-axle is broken and I'm not here to change your mind, only offer my experience with the X300.
I have (2) experiences working on (2) different X300 lawn tractors that were diagnosed with a broken trans-axle. Both times I found that the splines on the ID of the trans-axle belt sheave wore out and the belt sheave was free-wheeling on the (vertical) trans-axle shaft. This makes it appear that the trans-axle is broken because the tractor will not move in either direction. The only way to tell if this is what happened, is to disassemble and remove the tractor seat and foot pan to gain access to this. The sheave is on the top of the trans-axle (under the white plastic fan).
Then you can see if the belt sheave is free-wheeling on the shaft (sheave moves and shaft does not move).
If this is the case, then a new sheave is about $50. If you find this is your issue, I have pics and step by step instructions that I made while I did this. I can send them to you if you like.
Again, if you already checked for this, my apologies and ignore my post.

Sounds like a ''Thank you'' is in order. Good post.:thumbsup:

 

[jenkinsph]

I would keep the spare k46, just having it may cause you to never need it.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

just for perspective, my k46 mower is 12 years old, has almost 400 hours, I mow about 1.5 acres and it takes me a bit over an hour just to mow.

So, it has done a lot of mowing....just for perspective.

Yes, I need to do a maintenance on it this winter.

 

[ruffdog]

Thanks to the OP on telling us what he found out was the problem. We all learn and move on to the next problem.

 

[bmg88201]

It sounds like you clearly know your trans-axle is broken and I'm not here to change your mind, only offer my experience with the X300.
I have (2) experiences working on (2) different X300 lawn tractors that were diagnosed with a broken trans-axle. Both times I found that the splines on the ID of the trans-axle belt sheave wore out and the belt sheave was free-wheeling on the (vertical) trans-axle shaft. This makes it appear that the trans-axle is broken because the tractor will not move in either direction. The only way to tell if this is what happened, is to disassemble and remove the tractor seat and foot pan to gain access to this. The sheave is on the top of the trans-axle (under the white plastic fan).
Then you can see if the belt sheave is free-wheeling on the shaft (sheave moves and shaft does not move).
If this is the case, then a new sheave is about $50. If you find this is your issue, I have pics and step by step instructions that I made while I did this. I can send them to you if you like.
Again, if you already checked for this, my apologies and ignore my post.

Yes, A thank you is in order for Hill-Billy, thanks for the great advice. Can't wait to go buy a new sheave, hope it works. I will still drop the transmission and change the fluid if and when I get a couple of days off.

 

[Deere Dude]

I thought I would vent my anger with JD.

Thanks for letting me vent.

Say, "Sorry John Deere," I besmirched your name in error.

 

[Hill-Billy]

Glad it worked out for you. Sorry for my long post explaining it, but I don't know everyone's mechanical ability and wanted to be clear with my instruction to help you out. As others have said here, there's easier and quicker ways to get at the sheave.

 

[bmg88201]

Well, I changed the Transmission fluid on my X300 (388 hours), the old fluid didn't look grey to me and it was not really black either but it was very dark in color, it did not smell burnt. But I do not know what the original fluid looked like. The magnet was clean. I let it drain for about an hour then I replaced the fluid with Gastrol 5-50W full synthetic. Couldn't find Valvoline or Mobil One 5-50W in the local parts stores. So, I guess the Gastrol will be ok. I had about three Tablespoons of oil left out of 2 quarts.

I used a drill to spin the trans a few times and filled it up to about 3/4 inch from the top. I hope that will be alright. Put it back together and I drove it back and forth multiple times and it seemed to drive fine.

 

[RBLapham]

Sorry BMG I haven't checked this thread till now. The dark color says the oil overheated and it's good you changed it. You should get many more years out of it. Try to keep it clean (K46) - I use a leaf blower on it after every use and I never cut wet grass that will tend to build up on the trans much more.

 

[bmg88201]

Thanks for the reply RBL, I suppose it did get hot, I always blow my mower off when I am done and then I hose it down and make sure I rinse off the transmission and then I blow the mower pretty dry before I park it. I really don't worry about the wet grass since I clean my mower completely after each use.

Have a good Thanksgiving and a worship filled Christmas.

 

[buickanddeere]

With the K46 transaxle failure is a matter of when , not if. The X370 is the first tractor in the line with a beefy transaxle .

 

[bmg88201]

There are many posts stating that changing the fluid in the K46 will either fix a particular issue or at least extend the life of the transmission, others state that the K46 is doomed to failure regardless of a fluid change. My 2010 X300 has 388 hours on it and I thought that exchanging the fluid with 5-50W synthetic was worth a try, it wasn't that hard and was inexpensive. It seemed to function well after the fluid change. It is parked for the winter, this Spring I'll see how it does. If it fails in the future, then it fails. I guess I will either buy a new K46 or figure out which other Tuff Torq model transmission that is more sturdy will fit my X300 without doing modifications. It just is what it is.

 

[RBLapham]

If you want to put in a better trans without much work - a K66 can be an easy swap, just be sure you get the K66Y for a X300. for others it may be different but this post may help getting started.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=116245

Have see a brand new K66Y for about $400 from a surplus site Featured Items | www.surpluscenter.com search for K66

 

[bmg88201]

Thanks for the information RBL, I will certainly save your post for the future.

In about 2 years I will be moving on to 40 acres and will also have to get a large tractor with a bucket and a bush-hog on it. I will just use my X300 to mow around the new house and shop (less than an acre). I am thinking about a 50 horse New Holland. I heard New Holland used to be a Ford and have been told New Holland makes good stuff and about 50 horses would be big enough but I am still kicking that can around for now.

Thanks once again for the help.