Magnet Mounted LED ROPS Lights - PICS

[brenth561]

Wanting to do a similar install on my New Holland TC18. If I did 4 of the lights like you have what type of wiring kit would be best? I have not found any wiring harness on amazon that will work with 4 lights

 

[KYKub]

Hi brenth561. I didn't use a wiring harness. I just spliced single strands of wire to lengthen the wires coming out of the lights. Probably needed 12 feet or so total for all four lights.

Having now used the lights to plow snow a few times I definitely like the setup. Good coverage, trim profile, and magnet mounts. I'd do it again.

Good luck. Jeff

 

[brenth561]

They really do look great. Did you use a relay? Have you had any problems with the lights yet? I have read countless reviews and it seems that others have problems with them collecting moisture and eventually stop working. I don't plan to use the tractor when it's raining so the lights should never get wet unless they are sprayed on accident when washing or I get caught in the rain.

Also how it your light output with those lights? I can't decide whether to do 4 of yours or a 20 light bar for the front and two of yours facing the rear or use 2 of the square type for the rears or even the 28w rounds ones... So many options!!

I did order the magnets today. Per your advice I went with the larger ones that are 2.64

 

[npalen]

Other than it being a sin to drill a hole(s) in the ROPS, is there any reason not to thread the wires thru the tube?

 

[varmint]

Having installed lights on three tractors over the years, hopefully gaining experience each time, I still enjoy seeing how others do it. Some opinions: never had any problems with various LED lights at all, water or vibration. The OP's lights are now 2 for $14.79 on Amazon! Most tractors, Kubota SCUT and CUT anyway, have an auxiliary light fused circuit that's 10 amps, or about 120 watts. Most guys seem to prefer individual lights to the bars- lots of flexibility for aiming (?). No need for harnesses- get some wire loom at HF, some 16 gauge auto wire, a switch or two from eBay, and have fun. I have used relays, just because I had some, but for under 10 amps, probably no need at all.

Latest set up- and sorry if I have posted this too many times, but maybe folks will still find it interesting?

 

[s219]

Varmint, looks good, but I have to deduct a point because your switches are upside down! Or do you flip your head around when using them? :laughing:

Those Contura-style rocker switches are a mainstay in the boat world. Never made sense to me how they decided which way was on or off. I only know when comparing to other switches nearby. Sometimes in my boat when I have a bunch of gizmos running, I look at the switch panel and it's never immediately apparent which ones are on and which are off. Easier at night when the lights are visible.

 

[PILOON]

The norm is UP for on and by logic pushing the top of a rocker switch is the same motion.

 

[varmint]

Those are boat switches (I wanted waterproof, and they seem to be) and they are mounted that way on purpose- the indicator lights don't bother me, and for reasons un-definable, I just prefer to push down for "on". I wanted indicator lights so I wouldn't have to think about "are the rear lights on or off" during the daytime. I do use them to light up the barn when I back in.

But I guess you guys are right. I can flip them if I sell the tractor, and it becomes a sticking point! I don't need to check at night- I KNOW when the lights are on!

 

[brenth561]

Having installed lights on three tractors over the years, hopefully gaining experience each time, I still enjoy seeing how others do it. Some opinions: never had any problems with various LED lights at all, water or vibration. The OP's lights are now 2 for $14.79 on Amazon! Most tractors, Kubota SCUT and CUT anyway, have an auxiliary light fused circuit that's 10 amps, or about 120 watts. Most guys seem to prefer individual lights to the bars- lots of flexibility for aiming (?). No need for harnesses- get some wire loom at HF, some 16 gauge auto wire, a switch or two from eBay, and have fun. I have used relays, just because I had some, but for under 10 amps, probably no need at all.

Latest set up- and sorry if I have posted this too many times, but maybe folks will still find it interesting?

View attachment 459572View attachment 459573

Awesome setup! Would you mind posting a link to the lights and switches? Also do you think that the square ones you have shown in the pic would be brighter than the flat ones that the OP has?

 

[moship]

These might not be the exact same a Varmint used, but I've used these on my tractor, pickups as reverse lights, JD Gator and a few other applications with great results.

Amazon.com: SHANREN 4Pcs 4" 18W CREE LED Work Light bar Flood beam 60 degree waterproof for Off-road Truck Car ATV SUV Jeep Boat 4WD ATV Auxiliary Driving Lamp(Park of 4): Automotive

Amazon.com: TMH® 27w Square Shape 60 Degree LED Work Light Flood Beam Spot Lamp Driving Light, Jeep, Off-road, 4wd, 4x4, Utv, Sand Rail, Atv, Suv, Motorbike, Motorcycle, Bike, Dirt Bike, Bus, Trailer, Truck, Train, Mining Truck, Excavator, Bulldozer,

Amazon.com: Signstek 2*18W CREE LED Flood Light Headlight Work Light Lamp off Road High Power ATV Jeep 4x4 Tractor off Road Light Fog Driving Bar Rree Truck SUV Car IP67 Waterproof Dustproof Shockproof (Black): Automotive

Switches:
OTRATTW :: Switch w/Rocker :: Contura II & III :: Lighting

 

[brenth561]

These might not be the exact same a Varmint used, but I've used these on my tractor, pickups as reverse lights, JD Gator and a few other applications with great results.

Amazon.com: SHANREN 4Pcs 4" 18W CREE LED Work Light bar Flood beam 60 degree waterproof for Off-road Truck Car ATV SUV Jeep Boat 4WD ATV Auxiliary Driving Lamp(Park of 4): Automotive

Amazon.com: TMH® 27w Square Shape 60 Degree LED Work Light Flood Beam Spot Lamp Driving Light, Jeep, Off-road, 4wd, 4x4, Utv, Sand Rail, Atv, Suv, Motorbike, Motorcycle, Bike, Dirt Bike, Bus, Trailer, Truck, Train, Mining Truck, Excavator, Bulldozer,

Amazon.com: Signstek 2*18W CREE LED Flood Light Headlight Work Light Lamp off Road High Power ATV Jeep 4x4 Tractor off Road Light Fog Driving Bar Rree Truck SUV Car IP67 Waterproof Dustproof Shockproof (Black): Automotive

Switches:
OTRATTW :: Switch w/Rocker :: Contura II & III :: Lighting

Would 2 of these
Amazon.com: SHANREN 4Pcs 4" 18W CREE LED Work Light bar Flood beam 60 degree waterproof for Off-road Truck Car ATV SUV Jeep Boat 4WD ATV Auxiliary Driving Lamp(Park of 4): Automotive

put out more light than 2 of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...le_15&smid=A3H7GPL9U124TQ&tag=viglink20660-20

 

[moship]

Brenth561,

I'm not certain you would notice a difference one way or the other between the two. I'd pick the one that fits the installation space the best. In either case they will put out more illumination then the typical 55 watt halogen fog lights and the light will be whiter.

I used the 1x6 configuration ones on my tractor because I tucked them up under the sun canopy. Originally had 55 watt halogens (H3 bulb), but they became damaged from limb damage.

On my neighbor's tractor I used the square 27 watt ones mounting them on ROP's. They were bright enough he elected to turn one rearward (1 forward and 1 rearward).

The square 27 watt ones referenced in my original post are brighter then the other two, but they are also physically larger.

For the most part the build quality seems to be about the same between these lights and they have come down in price over the last couple of years.

 

[varmint]

Hey Brenth561... the lights came from eBay and Amazon, and the market's sellers seem to ebb and flow, so I would just look around. If you can find USA sellers with competitive pricing, go with 'em- you'll at least have recourse if something doesn't work. They all come from China's factories to start with, and I haven't had any issues in getting stuff shipped from China's mainland or Hong Kong, so I usually wind up ordering from overseas- seems obvious that China's government subsidies shipping. Ditto for the switches. I looked for lighted, 12V waterproof switches, (make sure they are stated as 12V- the 120V ones won't illuminate the LED in the switch, if that's what you want) and go for price and specs. As someone noted, the rocker style switches are used extensively in marine apps, so they should work on a tractor! Of course, delivery can take 2 weeks, so plan ahead. I imagine returning something would be a real headache. I had a bad rear backup camera, and they just sent me another one- no mention of return.

As for brightness, I am not really qualified to state this or that. I think Cree LED's are good, and the lumens stated in the ads are a starting point, but I wouldn't trust that to be accurate, but I consider it. The build quality of all the lights I have ordered has impressed me, but I look at the ads pretty carefully, stainless mounting hardware, for example. Flood or spot? I have used both, and figure that I am going slowly, and light close in is most important, so I usually have one flood and one spot looking forward, two floods looking back. I added those rectangular "side" lights as an afterthought, since I wanted light on the sides: brush and trees, ditches to watch out for, and so forth. The main lights are 27W, the side lights are 18W, and I find that works for me. Maybe if I had a faster tractor, or was road travelling, I would want brighter. I doubt if I travel much more than 5 MPH at night.

 

[skyhook]

Just a heads up, from my experience, the 18w lights in the OP are not that water proof , here in the Canadian winter's, 2 of the 6 led's have burnt out within 6 months of use, they tend to fog up inside and then burn out. If you do have them, i suggest you re-seal around the clear lens, this may help reduce fogging up inside. I have 2 of these facing the rear, nice lighting for backing up, but as i sated one has already lost 2 of its leds.

 

[s219]

I have heard the same thing about the cheap LEDs, but considering the price it may be worth a gamble. I put four of them on my RTV since I knew they would be subject to wear and tear and didn't want to invest more $$.

I think the problem is that they aren't perfectly sealed (some people seem to think it's around the cord) and they do not have a breather.

I have Rigid LEDs on my boat, and they all have a small Goretex breather on the back so that moisture can get out (but water can't get in). They cost about $200 each, so they better be darn good!

 

[JWR]

Nice work, and great idea with the magnets.

Agree! Great idea. OK, so I have driven over a magnetic light or two on a trailer but then the convenience is worth it.

 

[Nightforce]

I've been wanting to make this identical improvement to my BX! I didn't know there was a factory-installed auxiliary power wires under the seat.

Nice install and thank you for sharing!

 

[robertm]

I made magnetic mounts with heavy duty magnets. The first time I hit a snow bank, they slid off the ROPS. Now, I have angle brackets on the lights that I clamp on with small C-clamps. They go nowhere. In summer when not needed, I unplug and unclamp them and store them away.
BTW, I have a series of three plugs I installed on my last B, that are run to three independent switches. All my electrical items use standard four-pin trailer plugs for power. They are in a bank on the back of the tractor. I can power and switch lights and my sprayer easily with quick electrical hook ups that are waterproof.

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[KYKub]

I'm the op and thought I would post an update. Lights are still fine. I keep the tractor under cover so it doesn't sit outside in weather. I've used the lights in some wet snow but probably less snow and rain than most so that might be a factor in my good luck.

I really like being able to move lights to underside of rops when in trees and outside when moving snow.

Couldn't be happier with result. Only minor issue is some light surface rust where magnet contacts rops.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm the op and thought I would post an update. Lights are still fine. I keep the tractor under cover so it doesn't sit outside in weather. I've used the lights in some wet snow but probably less snow and rain than most so that might be a factor in my good luck.

I really like being able to move lights to underside of rops when in trees and outside when moving snow.

Couldn't be happier with result. Only minor issue is some light surface rust where magnet contacts rops.

For moveable lights the magnets are an excellent solution! I really like the idea but wondering about magnetic interference... maybe no issue... not my expertise.

If a stronger and more permanent solution is desired I suggest you look into Click Bond adhesive bonded fasteners. These are serious structural fasteners used extensively by our military for a variety of applications far more intense then this. One thing that adhesive bonding does is isolate dissimilar metals thus no rust will occur. Full disclosure... I work for Click Bond but I only want to help fellow tractor owners with their mods. Our business is aerospace/military and I get no compensation for this type of promotion... not our market. That said, be glad to help with your mods on tractors installing systems without drilling or welding. I have posted a few threads on mods I have done on my BX using CB fasteners, LED lights, side view mirrors, and auxiliary storage boxes. I hope I haven't offended anyone by chiming in here.