Powering cylinder for dump cart with BX25

[Thanny]

I've just put together a new 2-ton capacity dump cart, since the old 0.1-ton Sears cart I have just isn't cutting it (two scoops of dirt from the loader and it barely rolls). More accurately, I have a 2-ton capacity cart, period, because until I add a hydraulic cylinder, there will be no dumping (the bed pivots at the rear, and I can barely lift it empty).

It has mounts already welded to the frame which I measured as about 34.5" inches apart. The manual says it supports a cylinder with a 24" stroke and up to 4" bore. Most of the cylinders I've seen with those specs have a retracted length of 34.25", which I figure is close enough to my rough measurement to be the correct fit.

My first question is about which cylinder to get. I see price ranges from around $175 to around $400, depending on bore, pressure tolerance, and style. Does it matter whether it's 2500, 3000, or 3250psi? Would a 4" bore make a noticeable difference versus 3.5", in terms of lifting power? Would welded really be more sturdy than tie-rod in this application?

Second, I need a sanity check on just how to connect it to my Kubota BX25.

There are three hydraulic connectors on the back - outlet, inlet, and power beyond. The backhoe connects to all three of them. When the backhoe is off, the outlet hose is connected to the power beyond connector, to supply hydraulic power to the mower and 3-hitch lift cylinder.

So to power the dump cart cylinder without leaving the mower deck at the mercy of gravity, I need a 4-way control valve with an additional power beyond port, to which the inlet is routed when the lever is in neutral.

Is all that correct?

Any advice on the size (and type) of the fittings and hoses to shoot for?

 

[J_J]

About 6000 lbs difference at 2000 psi.

--------9000 -------------------3000 psi.

1/2 in hose.

 

[kubota2014bx25]

I've just put together a new 2-ton capacity dump cart, since the old 0.1-ton Sears cart I have just isn't cutting it (two scoops cylinders I've seen with those specs have


hello I know it's been a long time since you posted about this. But I just got the same trailer and have a 3"x24"x3000psi ram on the trailer and was wondering how did you end up hooking up the trailer to be able to dump from the seat of the tractor

 

[Thanny]

I didn't. I have the valve mounted on the trailer tongue. It's conceivable to mount a valve somewhere accessible from the seat, then run hoses from there, but I couldn't say where a good spot for that would be.

If your notion is to control the cylinder from the lift lever already on the tractor, that'd require a lot of changes to the factory hydraulics, if it's even feasible at all.

I can answer questions you might have on doing it the way I did, but otherwise I can't really help.

 

[J_J]

Do you have a remote valve?

If so, just connect your dump cyl to the remote valve.

If no valve, you need one, a lever valve or a solenoid controlled valve.

1/4 in hoses will work.

A valve with the flow equal to your tractor pump flow.

They do show load holding checks for each work port. items 6,7

 

[kubota2014bx25]

I'm new to this added stuff on to the hydraulics.

This is what I have a 2014 BX25D with the back hoe and front loader no mower deck. It also has the FEL option according to all my paperwork

I want to be able to take the back hoe off and attach the country manufacture 2 ton trailer. Which has a 4"x24" 3000psi ram and be able to dump the trailer from the point raise and lower lever... Idk if that's possible or what I have to do to make it work.

If it requires alot if modifying then I'll bolt on a 12v hydraulic pump and just run a power and ground plug connector to the back of the machine

Or should I go to tractor supply and get a single lever valve for up and down and which lines would I connect from the back of the bx

 

[kubota2014bx25]

Like I said I don't mind getting off the machine either to pull the lever to make the trailer dump but my question would be is which houses did you use and which hose gets connected to which side if the ram. Any pictures of what you did would be great to

Thanks

 

[J_J]

Like I said, just add a remote valve and you can operate the trailer dump.

If you have a FEL, you can also use the curl circuit to power the dump cyl. Just run some hoses to the back.

Add a 3rd function valve to the rear and use that for the dump.

A 12v hyd pump will cost around $400

 

[kubota2014bx25]

View attachment 407032View attachment 407033View attachment 407034

I got the trailer for free was never used but sat outside so I repainted the whole trailer with tractor supply IH red paint they sell and replaced all the deck boards and stained them

 

[kubota2014bx25]

I actually have a 12v pump already off a old state construction sign trailer


Also like I said I'm trying to get an understanding of this hydraulic stuff alittle better sorry.

Now when you say a remote valve that the separate single lever I can mount to the trailer. Correct? And if so which lines off the back 3 lines get used to that lever block