Lilredfox sending out SOS

/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#161  
will do... if that wires sheeth is crusty n brittle. being the retired lectrician i am. i'll replace it. thanks U.
Water may leak in around that wire, can also enter thru broken insulation in wire, I would clean and seal both with black silicon. How is the shifter boot and any other seals?

Dave
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#162  
do u think i awwta dig out n replace all that igsisting wut looks to be black permatex runnin along the top seam.
Water may leak in around that wire, can also enter thru broken insulation in wire, I would clean and seal both with black silicon. How is the shifter boot and any other seals?

Dave
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#163  
thanks fur the link. that jus saved my hide n sure anserd alot.
lilred,

Your next step should be inspection of lift piston mechanism. It'll take 1 hr max and $10 cost to replace the nylon seal. I have sent you links and suggestions to correct. Have not heard feed back if you read them all or done some of the suggestions. You can abandon this thread and just follow the links and I'm confident you'll find all you need for a complete repair. You do not want to destroy you injector pump or the hyd pump, if you do so then that tractor would be scarp metal at best.
I have a link here for you that show how to replace injector pump oil that is separate from crankcase


JC,

good luck.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-pump.html?highlight=ford+1700+injection+pump
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#164  
is there a prefered flavor of oil fur the injector pump? all it sed in what i read )thanks again by the way)is to use a good motor oil. i myself prefer castol GTX. wut weight do i use?
keeping in mind it is turning rather chili out there.

No question, is a dumb question, if yea dont no the anser!!!
lilred,

Your next step should be inspection of lift piston mechanism. It'll take 1 hr max and $10 cost to replace the nylon seal. I have sent you links and suggestions to correct. Have not heard feed back if you read them all or done some of the suggestions. You can abandon this thread and just follow the links and I'm confident you'll find all you need for a complete repair. You do not want to destroy you injector pump or the hyd pump, if you do so then that tractor would be scarp metal at best.
I have a link here for you that show how to replace injector pump oil that is separate from crankcase


JC,

good luck.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-pump.html?highlight=ford+1700+injection+pump
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS #165  
I've gotten a real kick out of following this thread, and I was really impressed with the fox until I saw the Semi-holes cup on the bench. Now I have to question her commom sense.
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS #166  
I use my engine oil. For my Ford I use diesel Rotella 15W40 for the crankcase and same for the injector pump. You might get a bit of compressed air with a nozzle to push some air from the top with the drain and level hole open on the pump body. The link has pics that show were they are. I bet ya that oil will be thick and dirty. Castrol is perfectly fine but you want to make sure it is rated for Diesel application. Agreed .:)


is there a prefered flavor of oil fur the injector pump? all it sed in what i read )thanks again by the way)is to use a good motor oil. i myself prefer castol GTX. wut weight do i use?
keeping in mind it is turning rather chili out there.

No question, is a dumb question, if yea dont no the anser!!!
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#167  
that semi-holes cup was given to me when i first arrived here 4 yrs ago. i soon found out that as soon as wunna the locals finds out ur new round these parts. the first thing they do is corrupt u. common sense tells me not to take a coffee cup out to the shop i dont wanna get broken... :duh:
i.e. dont care bout that cup.
I've gotten a real kick out of following this thread, and I was really impressed with the fox until I saw the Semi-holes cup on the bench. Now I have to question her commom sense.
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS #168  
i checked them out as well. both boots are tight. there is nothing anywere that i can find that would permit 3 xtra gals of fluid get in there. and certainly not in a 6 month period of time. not even sittin out in constant rain.

I would replace both boots, the left one is loose fitting around the shift lever, you would be surprised how much water runs down a shift lever, the right one looks dry rotted.

I dont beleave there should be any sealer on top, between the cover plates, someone may have been trying to stop water entry.
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#170  
i pulled both boots down wen i checked em. they both do seem tight. i hadnt set it back in place after i took the pic. bedder ta be safe than sorry. agreed. there shouldnt be any sealer on top. i think perhaps my pa put it there. prolly was leakin or he thot it might could leak.
I would replace both boots, the left one is loose fitting around the shift lever, you would be surprised how much water runs down a shift lever, the right one looks dry rotted.

I dont beleave there should be any sealer on top, between the cover plates, someone may have been trying to stop water entry.
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#171  
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS #172  
Automotive CV boots work ,come in many sizes, small foreign cars work the best, if factory boots are not available.

Dave
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#173  
zactlee. i had to replace the boot on my BF's tractor last yr. wirked like a charm. n there more redy available at ur local pocket pick n pull.
Automotive CV boots work ,come in many sizes, small foreign cars work the best, if factory boots are not available.

Dave
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#174  
i no i sed i wuz gunna change the fluids n clean the filter yesterday. sept. well. i will never turn down a frend in need. specially an elder... wound up committing myself ta laying a floor. wich of course usually tends ta more.

as fur the fluid n filter. Yes Sir, i took pics as i went. looks like they downloaded opposite of my choosing.
the pic with the full flowing fluid is instantly as i pulled the plug. the pic of the drizzlin is just that. the tail end of it before i dropped the tube n pulled the filter. i like to put a fresh gal size bucket ta catch the tail end of the fluids. so i added a pic of the tail end fluids. last but surely not the least. is the filter. it's not as bad it's 3rd time round. . i'll head on out n clean it with diesel. take pics of inside the case again, then clean it best i can n flush it again. thank you jesus n the men on TBN. My Irish stubborn, bullheaded butt aint bout ta give up. :crossfingers:
 

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/ Lilredfox sending out SOS #175  
Looks real good lilred. I put a link that was titled "innards of f-1700 transmission". If you are inclined can certainly gently take the cover off to see the inside and vacuum out all the crud. I just did it on my just to have a look. It did not damage the gasket when I remove the cover so I reused it. Beyond that and the differential there is no where else hyd oil is traveling minus pump, suction and discharge line. Good progress so far.:thumbsup:
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#176  
Many trials n tribulations with this tractor. if this flushing dont do it. im seriously thinkin im gunna be takin off the cap n goin in like u sed. i got it back tagether n ran it fur bout 15 minutes. it wuz still liftin. i lost lite n tamarows another day. the full flow in the pic is the burst as i pulled the plug on the first flush with diesel. theres a pic were im holdin a chunk. yep, pulled it out wen i reached in ta feel the bottom of the case thru the filter hole. hopin i wuznt gunna find zactlee wut i found. i.e. chunks... not good. it's cast like. machined. the third n fourth pics show im prolly gunna wind up havin ta pull the cap off ta clean it bedher. at this rate... well, i aint gunna git it all, not just by flushin like this.
n of course the last pic is of ur dirty lilredfox. with a smile showin such graditute, thanks, n appriciation, fur the guided challenge, without lack of criticism, as well as encouragment n name calling while at the same time, being cheered on to indure more of all TBN has to offer. all of wich are lessons ta learn on letting my heart not be troubled, along my journey with the TBN men
:fox:
 

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/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#177  
i looked in my personal messages as well as in all our dailog here. i saw u talkin bout it but not the link... unless im havin a blonde moment, wich piss redheads off just thinkin bout. im not seeing the link. n i'd like to very much so. i have a feelin im gunna be needin em this week.
Looks real good lilred. I put a link that was titled "innards of f-1700 transmission". If you are inclined can certainly gently take the cover off to see the inside and vacuum out all the crud. I just did it on my just to have a look. It did not damage the gasket when I remove the cover so I reused it. Beyond that and the differential there is no where else hyd oil is traveling minus pump, suction and discharge line. Good progress so far.:thumbsup:
 
/ Lilredfox sending out SOS
  • Thread Starter
#178  
wun thing at a time. i no, i no. i god it alred-d. sept, i wanna ask yea all if u can tell me wut the adjusting screws are n do that sit on the top left of the injector pump. as ur lookin at the side. i also noticed i do not have a drain plug. unless it's on the other side, in wich id have to remove the pump to find that out. i read about bein able to drill wun out fur the drain. i to would be leiry bout contamination gittin in. i also read were i have the option to:
Yes, suck it out....dont go there guys. not less ur feelin compelled. n well... guess i got it cummin.
Im still tryin to understand wut the link sed about bleeding the air out of the fuel filter n wutnot.
 

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/ Lilredfox sending out SOS #179  
i looked in my personal messages as well as in all our dailog here. i saw u talkin bout it but not the link... unless im havin a blonde moment, wich piss redheads off just thinkin bout. im not seeing the link. n i'd like to very much so. i have a feelin im gunna be needin em this week.

Okay here we go with the link and additionally I'm posting some pics here as well. I don't like at all what I saw. that broken case piece appears to be a broken piece of gear tooth. I really think you need to take the cover off the transmission and section between diffy and transmission. It has two shaft , the top one goes to bevel gear in the diffy for locomotion. In the bottom there is another shaft that run the pto with a paddle splasher to lubricate the gear and shaft assembly. make sure not to lose the detent balls (four) that keeps the shifter in place and not jumping. I don't you can pick up all the crud just by draining alone. That muck need to be sucked up with a shop vac. be gentole taking the cover off, the gasket is rubber on transmission and paper on adjacent area. I was able to reuse both gasket without damaging it. That the way inside my transmission looked like. I just opened it up for a looksy. My rig was always garaged or shed.

JC,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ord-1700-transmission-innards.html?highlight=


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/ Lilredfox sending out SOS #180  
wun thing at a time. i no, i no. i god it alred-d. sept, i wanna ask yea all if u can tell me wut the adjusting screws are n do that sit on the top left of the injector pump. as ur lookin at the side. i also noticed i do not have a drain plug. unless it's on the other side, in wich id have to remove the pump to find that out. i read about bein able to drill wun out fur the drain. i to would be leiry bout contamination gittin in. i also read were i have the option to:
Yes, suck it out....dont go there guys. not less ur feelin compelled. n well... guess i got it cummin.
Im still tryin to understand wut the link sed about bleeding the air out of the fuel filter n wutnot.

Okay, I see you got the one that does not have a drain plug. contamination is a valid point. What you can do is to partially open the back plate and drain from there. in order to do a btter job , you need to take the hex nit on top that is your fill port. it does have an air port to keep the injector atmospheric. The stud with the hex nut is how they adjusted the nozzle flow for the injector. don't dork with that as it might get you deeper in trouble . That's why they secures their adjustment with wire and piece of stamped lead. when you push a bit of air from top with the back plate slightly open it will push all th eoil out. You need about 2 oz clean engine oil in there.

JC,

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