OP
CompactTractorFan
Super Member
Yup, me too! It's been a great car so far. I'll have to get some better photos. :thumbsup:
Dodge Intrepid - First car, what do you think?
- Thread starter CompactTractorFan
- Start date
- Views: 11634
Yup, me too! It's been a great car so far. I'll have to get some better photos. :thumbsup:
LD1
Epic Contributor
Unless there is something really different about that car, replacing a tranny cooler line with a leak shouldnt be anyways near $800.
Definatally something you want to REALLY keep an eye on. Transmissions are really sensitive to fluid level. You can run a motor a quart low on oil with no ill effects. Typically they even have a fill "range" that will still show acceptable at a quart low.
A transmission even a pint low or pint over will cause issues.
Definatally something you want to REALLY keep an eye on. Transmissions are really sensitive to fluid level. You can run a motor a quart low on oil with no ill effects. Typically they even have a fill "range" that will still show acceptable at a quart low.
A transmission even a pint low or pint over will cause issues.
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 16,316
- Location
- Daleville, IN
- Tractor
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
I agree, get that line fixed and it should not cost $800. Look at the net to see about doing it yourself.
Chris
Chris
Johndeere3720
Padawan Tractor Learner, Advertiser
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2009
- Messages
- 3,964
- Location
- NW Oregon
- Tractor
- Bobcat T62, MT55, E42R, E10, John Deere 4100
That's what I would do. I have learned a lot repairing stuff myself and in the end saved a considerable amount of $$ vs/ having a mechanic do it. :2cents:
OP
CompactTractorFan
Super Member
Maybe I'll have to look at getting the leak fixed again...I think most of the cost would be parts...
LD1
Epic Contributor
I is usually just steel brake line:thumbsup:
First step is to find out IF it is indeed a line, and which one. There should be TWO going to the radiator (or in front of the radiator if it has a seperate cooler).
Take the one off that is leaking and measure it. Then go to napa an pick up a peice. I dont see a peice of steel line ~36" long costing more than ~$5-$10:thumbsup:
Hardest part is the labor. Things are tight and you probabally need a jack/jackstands and get it from the underside.
Raw Dodge
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2009
- Messages
- 644
- Location
- Orange County,NY
- Tractor
- Ventrac 4231,Dixie Chopper XXWD5000
Ive been a mechanic for close to 30 yrs now,and the only thing Ill add is that when you buy a cheap beater car,you have to be able to do some of the repairs yourself...if not,it will nickel and dime you as much as a car payment.I run old vehicles,by choice.I have an 11 and 12 yr old truck and an 8 yr old car,I just gave my daughter my 15 yr old car...So im always working on something it seems...but this is the price we pay for not having a car payment,cheap insurance and a large investment...so when something is amiss,roll up your sleeves,and get down on the ground and find out whats going on..grab a flashlight and learn...If your not sure of something,ask here or a friend,dont get in over your head,but you have to start somewhere.
A good place would be your leaky cooler line,if its dripping,it needs to be replaced,and when it fails(and it will),you will likely run the trans out of fluid before you realize it happened,burning it up if your lucky,possibly catching the car on fire,worst case..most cooler lines are under pressure when the torque convertor is locked! My truck runs 175psi in the cooler line at times! I verified this with a pressure guage.This is no place for leaks of any kind...
My advice it try another mechainc if you cant do this yourself...800 seems like a lot for trans cooler lines on a fwd car,they are little short lines,they usually rust out or leak at the preform rubber/steel unions...you can buy the new line from chrysler,and probably do this yourself for under 200 if you wanted,heck the lines probably under 100.00.
One last thing,stay on top of the oil on that 2.7 Chrysler..its not a good engine,as you know..but ive seen some run forever,and many fail under 60K miles...so you seem to have a good one.
A good place would be your leaky cooler line,if its dripping,it needs to be replaced,and when it fails(and it will),you will likely run the trans out of fluid before you realize it happened,burning it up if your lucky,possibly catching the car on fire,worst case..most cooler lines are under pressure when the torque convertor is locked! My truck runs 175psi in the cooler line at times! I verified this with a pressure guage.This is no place for leaks of any kind...
My advice it try another mechainc if you cant do this yourself...800 seems like a lot for trans cooler lines on a fwd car,they are little short lines,they usually rust out or leak at the preform rubber/steel unions...you can buy the new line from chrysler,and probably do this yourself for under 200 if you wanted,heck the lines probably under 100.00.
One last thing,stay on top of the oil on that 2.7 Chrysler..its not a good engine,as you know..but ive seen some run forever,and many fail under 60K miles...so you seem to have a good one.
OP
CompactTractorFan
Super Member
Thanks guys.
The whole transmission cooler needs to be replaced (or so they say). Not sure why...
Maybe I'll have someone else look at it...
The whole transmission cooler needs to be replaced (or so they say). Not sure why...
Maybe I'll have someone else look at it...
TRR
Gold Member
About the leak in the tranny cooler line. I had the same problem. Mechanic said it cracked because the rubber mounts were shot and the lines were flexing more than they should which caused them to crack/break/whatever the right word is. Had to replace the mounts before they'd fix the leak. Don't remember what the total cost was but I'm thinking it was a lot less than $800, but then again, it was several years ago.
clemsonfor
Super Member
I see you bought it , im only through the first 2 pages. But dont worry about the sludge or reliability issue thing. Its fine now and should stay that way, just change the oil, i would at 3K miles instead of pushing to the 5-6k that you can go on oil now. This is cheap insurance. Trust me i have driven all high mileage cars and not had an engine problem doing this.
I have an old blazer(s10) with round 200K miles it had the old 2.8 which was not known to be a power horse and had sludge issues. it ran fine the 20 or so thousand i put on it before it was retired to the farm and quit running, which was a fuel issue.
I have an old blazer(s10) with round 200K miles it had the old 2.8 which was not known to be a power horse and had sludge issues. it ran fine the 20 or so thousand i put on it before it was retired to the farm and quit running, which was a fuel issue.
