Power Tool Cord Replacements

[jml755]

even contact welded pigtails can be repalced. btdt on otherwise 'throw away' type motors with no external service ports to repalce the brushes.

mind you it took time to do it, and may not have been worth it on a throw away tool.. but I like to tinker and had a box full of brushes and found ones to fit... etc.

soundguy

Yup, I know what you mean by "throwaway tool". Was real disappointed this last weekend. I had a Craftsman drill that I bought in the early '70s that was making a racket and wouldn't start sometimes. Had to turn it by hand and then it would run. Figured it was brushes. Took it apart and one of the contact segments on the armature was sheared off! Brushes were kind of chewed up because of that and I considered (for about 2 seconds) trying to repair the armature before I tossed it into the trash. But man, I liked that drill. Guess I should flame Craftsman for poor quality and making "throwaway tools", eh? :laughing:

 

[RPW]

I get my replacement for basically free. Go to one of the many computer repair facilities and ask if they have a bunch of old computer cords. Cut off the end and now you have a new cord. Or find where someone has thrown out an old monitor etc. They all make good replacements.

 

[Short Game]

But man, I liked that drill.

Yeah, that's the rub.

 

[Short Game]

I get my replacement for basically free. Go to one of the many computer repair facilities and ask if they have a bunch of old computer cords. Cut off the end and now you have a new cord. Or find where someone has thrown out an old monitor etc. They all make good replacements.

I wonder what gauge wire those monitor and desktop cords are. The thrift stores are full of them.

========================

Just checked 4 of them: all were 18AWG. That's not happening.

 

[Soundguy]

rivits are made to be pried or drilled out.. OR creatively connect the pigtails.

remember.. soft carbon brushes cn be shaped or formed on a grinder wheel or with a file.

BTDT

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Yup, I know what you mean by "throwaway tool". Was real disappointed this last weekend. I had a Craftsman drill that I bought in the early '70s that was making a racket and wouldn't start sometimes. Had to turn it by hand and then it would run. Figured it was brushes. Took it apart and one of the contact segments on the armature was sheared off! Brushes were kind of chewed up because of that and I considered (for about 2 seconds) trying to repair the armature before I tossed it into the trash. But man, I liked that drill. Guess I should flame Craftsman for poor quality and making "throwaway tools", eh? :laughing:

i have a B&D reversable / variable that is about 21ys old.. it's chuck and the front bearing / bushing has a problem.. i've got it setting in the parts pile... with a chinese drill that does the same thing for 9$ doing it's job right now.. I may tinker with it one day.. or use it for parts.. or whatever.. maybee when the rice drill breaks in a couple years, see if I can swap chucks, and fashion another bushing..

I have swapped parts on die grinders for years.. got a box of old ones.. about every 5 ys I dig thru.. take em apart and make 2 from 5.. etc...

had an old box store brand drill press that was about 16ys old die.. actually chuck died.. I tossed it inthe scrap pile as i couldn't get the chuck off the quill.. used it's pedistal and vice for a few weeks as a welding table for lil jobs.. then on a whim, decided the motor and everything else on that old press was just too good to be laying there..

went at it some more.. managed to break the lil plastic depth guide collar it was wearing ( never used it.. ) but got the chuck free of the quill.. chuck was locked up.. had remembered seeing similar replacement chucks at harbor freight.. just never could find one in stock to check size.. and didn't want to order a wrong one.. decided to put the old chuck in a glass jar.. added diesel, naptha, a lil acetone and some atf fluid to it.. cappe dit and let it set in the window about 2 weeks in the shop.. fished it out every 3-4 days and just lightly tapped all around it with the pointy tip of a welding chipping hammer.. then toss it back into the soup. the last time I had puleld it out and was tapping.. it kinda loosened up.. so i worked it for a while and got it smooth. dug some gunk out of it that looked like glue and sawdust, and figured the last stuff I had been drilling was laminated plywood, with forestner bits.. and it must have gotten a bunch of dust and glue particles in it that heated up and seized it up..

in the mean time, a week before all that I had picked up a tractor supply sidewalk sale special clearanced drill press for some low price like 39$.. now I got 2 functional ones So I leave one belted up for metal, and one belted up for wood.

did i mention that you can no longer get the 'oring' style belts for the old one ( new one uses a small vbelt ).. however I found a vacume cleaner rubber 'oring' style belt that was like 1mm different size thickness, and proper length and fit fine in the groove, and is running great.. was like 3$..

soundguy

 

[BXpanded]

and then what? 5$ to 8$ shipping.. thus nearly 20$

probably build 3 of them from the box store for that money..


soundguy

There's a repair facility pretty close by so we just pick them up when we're near. I guess I really just like having the right strain reliefs, right size wire and the factory molded plug. That, and saving the time to make up a cord, pretty much makes the few dollars difference worthwhile to me. Each to his own...

 

[jml755]

....... I tossed it in the scrap pile as i couldn't get the chuck off the quill.. used it's pedistal and vice for a few weeks as a welding table for lil jobs..
soundguy

You must have quite a scrap pile.:laughing: Your comment about the "table" reminds me that I've got a Craftsman 12" Radial Arm Saw (bought used for $50 mid-70's) that is used only as a table in my basement because the motor gave out. Contacted Emerson, no longer available, so I keep looking around for a used direct replacement with no luck so far. I periodically sit by it and ponder "engineering" changes to adapt another R/A motor to its carriage. Wife just says why don't you throw it out. But I know it won't sit 10 minutes by the curb. Just don't want to give some guy driving by a cheap thrill, I guess.

BTW, with regards to old computer cords. I've got boxes of them. They're NOT all alike quality/gauge-wise. Pricier servers and such use nice thick (probably 12ga) ones. Cords from some cheap computers wouldn't stand up to the abuse as a portable tool cord.

 

[Soundguy]

the time to make a cord ??? would take me longer to go get in my truck let alone drive somewhere then there's the fuel cost..

I guess that's the engineer in me... i don't like paying someone else 10$ for something I can make for 3$, and I know how it was made, not pumped out in a chinese slaveshop and gonna be recalled in 2 months as it had a defect.. or burn my barn down..

yep.. to each his own.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. i don't throw much away either. I sometimes even use the 'oik' from the pig..

I have an old sears RA saw.. big sucker.. has to be from t he 70's.. works good.. actually got it free at an estate sale.. i got there near the end and they were closing it down.. I hauled off a few bags of garbage for them so they didn't have to run into town.. in return I got a couple old bikes and the saw, and some non running weed whacker ( parts? ) and an electric edger.. old but working.. had a new set of bladed in packaging from ? 70's or 80's gave me the saw for free too.. just for taking away some bagged trash. had a whole stakck of blades.. even dado.. etc..

soudnguy

You must have quite a scrap pile.:laughing: Your comment about the "table" reminds me that I've got a Craftsman 12" Radial Arm Saw (bought used for $50 mid-70's) that is used only as a table in my basement because the motor gave out. Contacted Emerson, no longer available, so I keep looking around for a used direct replacement with no luck so far. I periodically sit by it and ponder "engineering" changes to adapt another R/A motor to its carriage. Wife just says why don't you throw it out. But I know it won't sit 10 minutes by the curb. Just don't want to give some guy driving by a cheap thrill, I guess.

BTW, with regards to old computer cords. I've got boxes of them. They're NOT all alike quality/gauge-wise. Pricier servers and such use nice thick (probably 12ga) ones. Cords from some cheap computers wouldn't stand up to the abuse as a portable tool cord.

 

[bcp]

But, they don't fit the three outlet ends of my 100 foot ten gauge power cords, at least three don't fit. When I get to drilling and grinding, three is often not enough for me.

Add a "power squid" to the end of your cord. Four to six outlets that fit any size plug.

 

[sandman2234]

Computer cords go a long way around here for recording things...
I got a bunch of computers (a truckload) and sent most of it to a friends computer repair shop. I kept a few boxes, like a pallet of keyboards and half a box of cords. I have used a bunch of them over the years, for anything from rewiring a drill to hanging something from the rafters.
David from jax

 

[Short Game]

...I know it won't sit 10 minutes by the curb. Just don't want to give some guy driving by a cheap thrill...

Federal regs shut down our county dump years ago. It was near Rosburg, WA, so everyone called it, "the Rosburg Mall." Man, I miss that place. Trouble was, I usually brought home more than I tossed away.

There was a sign that said, "No Salvaging." We never heard that anyone had to tell the judge, "yes, Your Honor, I'm guilty, I wuz stealin' frum the dump!"

 

[MarkV]

Guess I would side with the group that says replace with a factory cord. They available and not that over priced. No question the safest way to go.

If it is a tool you have to keep, that is going to be the best and safest solution. If you are just trying to resurrect a relic, tools are really inexpensive right now and are much superior to those that have lived a decade or better. Just my opinion.

MarkV

 

[Short Game]

Guess I would side with the group that says replace with a factory cord. They available and not that over priced. No question the safest way to go.

But the factory cord was the one that failed in the first place. There is no question they could supply tools with better, but that might mean a few pennies less profit.

Just another way to look at it.

 

[KennyG]

I would stay away from computer cords for power tools. They are only intended to carry 5 amps at the most. The ones I've cut into seem to be 16 or 18 gauge. I started to use one once as a replacement, but when I saw how it was built I changed my mind.

I would suggest looking on E-bay for motor cord (like SJOOW or SOOW). If you get a good deal on a bulk quantity, you can use some for cord replacements and also make up really good extension cords. I recently got a good deal on some 10/3 and made up a 50 foot extension cord for my welder.

 

[sandman2234]

I would stay away from computer cords for power tools. They are only intended to carry 5 amps at the most. The ones I've cut into seem to be 16 or 18 gauge. I started to use one once as a replacement, but when I saw how it was built I changed my mind.

I would suggest looking on E-bay for motor cord (like SJOOW or SOOW). If you get a good deal on a bulk quantity, you can use some for cord replacements and also make up really good extension cords. I recently got a good deal on some 10/3 and made up a 50 foot extension cord for my welder.

The amp chart I just looked at says 16 or 18 ga would be good for a drill, as most drills max out at 8 to 10 amps and those sizes are good for 10 minimum and 22 max.
I am sure some of the larger (1/3 to 1/2 and larger) might pull more than 7-8 amps but for the average 1/4" drill it should be fine. I will be the first to admit electricity isn't one of my better qualities, so keep that in mind also.
David from jax

 

[buffy12590]

I have replaced power tool cords so many times I can't count how many. I use 100 foot extension cord the orange stuff from H/D. Buy 3 or 4 male plugs because you have enough wire. The advandage to this method is I can make the new cord any length I desire. Cut off 6 feet or so from the male end and use it for your first replacement. I am usually able to pull the old wire out of the strain relief on the tool and insert the new orange wire and make the connections inside. Worst case remove the strain relief and just inset the wire into the handle. Use a cable tie to secure the wire inside the case so it can't be pulled out. Just use a little care when using the tool. Then install a male plug on the end of the 94 foot section. You have an extension cord albeit shorter and when the next tool needs replacement cut from the male end and redo the ubove procedure. My drill, grinder, and drop shop lights have 10 foot cords while the vaccuum has a 25 foot cord. :thumbsup:

 

[CurlyDave]

...Next trip to town I'll be checking this out. Do you think Home Depot will have these?

I have bought two at Home Depot within the last year. Look near the contractor grade extension cords.

 

[Soundguy]

Add a "power squid" to the end of your cord. Four to six outlets that fit any size plug.

i don't like the cheap-o flat 3 way ends some cords have. can't get a xformer on them. I much prefer the angled 'ducks foot' style witht he 3 terminals at 60' arcs form each other..

soundguy