Advice on metal lathe

   / Advice on metal lathe #21  
If you go the Chinese route a couple of other vendors include Products in Lathes,Machinery on Wholesale Tool and Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies and Metalworking Tools - Drills, End Mills, Taps, Machines, Measuring Tools, Abrasives, Power Tools and MRO Supplies | Travers Tool

You never know who will have a good sale going at any given time.

My lathe is a Rockwell 11 x 35 made in the '60s that I scored when they closed down a machine shop at work. It's another good brand to look for used. Delta sent me a set of manuals for FREE.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #22  
A good used American Lathe will last you a lifetime...

Geared Head will usually cost a little more than a belt drive...

Sometimes the larger lathes will cost next to nothing because they are too big for most home owners to use and almost always require 3-phase power or alterations to work in a home shop.

You can get accuracy even from the cheap imports...

The better the lathe is made the more rigid the construction allowing repeatability when taking larger cuts...

Larger roughing cuts save time... there is nothing that says you can't achieve the same result on a given item by taking 10 smaller cuts or a larger roughing cut and a finish cut.

Most of the Lathes I see are found on Craigslist... I think you are eliminating 90% of the market... also, Ebay has some, although, not to practical unless the item is located where you are.

You might want to take someone with you that is familiar with machine tools...

Some common problems could be damage from abuse or accident... like a broken part or missing tooth or a sway back from years of use or slop... which can almost always be corrected by tightening the gibs... (Shims and other adjustments found on quality machine tools)

Just as important to ask is what tooling if any comes with it... a lathe needs tooling to be useful... basic is a 3-jaw and 4-jaw chuck... a collet holder is nice for small round and square stock...

Anything that can help you get started is a plus... tool bits and tool rest.

Sometimes a lathe is offered with tooling worth more than the lathe... sometimes it is just the lathe...

I have a 10" Southbend that can do 90% of what I need to do even if it takes longer... I have made pump shafts, car parts and used it to repair lots of small things together with my Bridgeport Tape Mill...

Always wanted a 13" Regal Leblond Lathe... never found one at my price point when I was looking and it is much larger and heavier.

I own a LeBlond servo shift frequency drive machine and it's probably my favorite but then I also have 3 phase.... I have a couple South Bends and some oriental stuff too.....

More important and often overlooked on a South bend is the headstock. It runs in plain babbit bearings (like your crankshaft in your car) and without proper lubrication, they get sloppy and they are next to impossible to replace. Owners tend not to keep the headstock bearing cups filled with oil.....

I've got a bench top lathe, a Myford ML-7 I think it is. Problem is I learned on larger engine lathes and get frustrated by the power, size and hole through the headstock on the Myford. Someday I'll get something a bit bigger to tackle my farm sized projects.

When you decide to part with your Myford, let me know, I'll buy it. Myford is one stout benchtop machine.

I understand about the through hole. My LeBlond has a 3" through hole and even that is too smal sometimes.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #23  
Several friends have the Grizzly products, and they have been more than satisfied. The thing I like about the Grizzly stuff was when there was a problem (and if you use stuff long enough there will be a problem) Grizzly was there with an answer and help.

Personally CL and an old south Bend or Craftsman and as others have said, hopefully with tooling.

But, if I wanted new and no hassle, it would be a matter of watching for the Grizzly I wanted to go on sale.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #24  
I purchased a chinese combo Mill\Lathe. This unit is sold (different colours) by several companies. It has some unique features in that the table has power in two directions (not at the same time) which was handy for making heatsinks. The other feature I like is the swing over the bed is 8 inches so I can turn large diameter pieces, up to 16 inches.

The problem is my mini Kubota FEL is unable to lift the 600LB mill\lathe. I could not even consider the larger ones with no way to get them into my workshop (heated shed in the back yard)
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #25  
I have a smithy lathe bzg 329 and a bx 288 mill drill, stand alone machines. One of the drill feed handles came out, I didn't have it tightened up enough, anyway when it hit the floor it broke the plastic knob, I called them and they had the knobs on hand. I also had a leak on the sight glass and ask them about that and they answered my question on the phone and I ordered a new sight glass with o ring and they had that also. I didn't necessarily need a new sight glass but no more than they cost I thought I would order one just in case I needed it. They got my order to me within about 3 or 4 days, I thought that was pretty quick. I have called them a few other times to buy tooling and they seemed know their business pretty good. I bought my units used and I know for a fact that they hadn't been used hardly any. I was responsible for the sight glass o ring starting seeping because I can't see the best and my lighting wasn't the best so I overfilled it. After I saw it while the machine was running then I could tell. Now I have the lighting to not make that mistake again unless my eyesight gets worse. I don't know where the smithy machines are made now but mine was not made in China.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #26  
I'll keep that in mind! Its a beautiful little lathe, was bought new by a fellow who made telescopes as a hobby, then sold to my grandfather, then passed to me. My grandfather spent more time cleaning it I think than using it. I don't think the packages of original Myfold tooling have ever been sharpened.

When you decide to part with your Myford, let me know, I'll buy it. Myford is one stout benchtop machine.

I understand about the through hole. My LeBlond has a 3" through hole and even that is too smal sometimes.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #27  
Several friends have the Grizzly products, and they have been more than satisfied. The thing I like about the Grizzly stuff was when there was a problem (and if you use stuff long enough there will be a problem) Grizzly was there with an answer and help.

Personally CL and an old south Bend or Craftsman and as others have said, hopefully with tooling.

But, if I wanted new and no hassle, it would be a matter of watching for the Grizzly I wanted to go on sale.

Grizzly (and Mr. Balola) are nothing more than overseas container receivers. They offer very little in the way of quality metalworking tools and have prostituted the South Bend Lathe Company name. There aren't any domestic manufacturers left (thanks NAFTA and irresponsible tariffs) but if I was in the market for new machinery, I'd be buying German. Grizzly is scant step above Harbor Freight, a very scant step.

I purchased a chinese combo Mill\Lathe. This unit is sold (different colours) by several companies. It has some unique features in that the table has power in two directions (not at the same time) which was handy for making heatsinks. The other feature I like is the swing over the bed is 8 inches so I can turn large diameter pieces, up to 16 inches.

The problem is my mini Kubota FEL is unable to lift the 600LB mill\lathe. I could not even consider the larger ones with no way to get them into my workshop (heated shed in the back yard)

How do you think I move large machines into place. My loader is capable of 6K but it sure can't reach 40 feet with a 10 foot ceiling......:D

I use pipe rollers, wedges and long pry bars.

I have a smithy lathe bzg 329 and a bx 288 mill drill, stand alone machines. One of the drill feed handles came out, I didn't have it tightened up enough, anyway when it hit the floor it broke the plastic knob, I called them and they had the knobs on hand. I also had a leak on the sight glass and ask them about that and they answered my question on the phone and I ordered a new sight glass with o ring and they had that also. I didn't necessarily need a new sight glass but no more than they cost I thought I would order one just in case I needed it. They got my order to me within about 3 or 4 days, I thought that was pretty quick. I have called them a few other times to buy tooling and they seemed know their business pretty good. I bought my units used and I know for a fact that they hadn't been used hardly any. I was responsible for the sight glass o ring starting seeping because I can't see the best and my lighting wasn't the best so I overfilled it. After I saw it while the machine was running then I could tell. Now I have the lighting to not make that mistake again unless my eyesight gets worse. I don't know where the smithy machines are made now but mine was not made in China.

A good home machinist turns a new knob from stock...and makes it better than the original. Sight glasses all weep. I let 'em leak. Gives me reason to keep things full of lubricant. Besides, a little oil is good for the metal, especially ways. I keep an oil soaked rag handy at all times, for wiping things off. Dry is alwys bad. My open geared South Bend is always flinging oil from the gear train. My Bridgeport's always flings a spray of oil from the end of the spindle upon startup because the I fill the oil cups every time I use them...with spindle oil.

Every time I use any of my machines and I mean every time, I lubricate them at every lubrication point and apply way oil to the ways if applicable or use the one shot lube pump at the end of each session.

A Bridgeport Machine rep once told me " If you don't wind up with an oil stripe across your shop apron, first thing in the morning, you aren't lubricating your Bridgeport properly. Machine tools thrive on oil. You can not over lubricate. You can however, under lubricate nd most people do.

Why I stated earlier that probably the one problem with buying a used South Bend or Early model Atlas or any machine with a plain bearing (insert) headstock is the previous (owners) probably starved the bearings for oil and it's next to impossible to replace the bearings. They have to be poured in place, line bored and precision honed to a micro inch finish, something that most people can't do and/or don't have the knowledge to do.

Far as your machine not being made in China, I'd wager it was made somewhere where the eating utensils are chopsticks.....:laughing:
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #28  
I'll keep that in mind! Its a beautiful little lathe, was bought new by a fellow who made telescopes as a hobby, then sold to my grandfather, then passed to me. My grandfather spent more time cleaning it I think than using it. I don't think the packages of original Myfold tooling have ever been sharpened.

I'll even come and pick it up.:)
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #29  
Grizzly (and Mr. Balola) are nothing more than overseas container receivers. They offer very little in the way of quality metalworking tools and have prostituted the South Bend Lathe Company name. There aren't any domestic manufacturers left (thanks NAFTA and irresponsible tariffs) but if I was in the market for new machinery, I'd be buying German. Grizzly is scant step above Harbor Freight, a very scant step.

Throwing expensive machinery brand names around does not a good machinist make and in fact, can point to the opposite. Take all advice with a grain of salt.

-Trout
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #30  
Throwing expensive machinery brand names around does not a good machinist make and in fact, can point to the opposite. Take all advice with a grain of salt.

-Trout

Not advice, fact. You can produce accurate parts with an oriental machine but for longevity and repeatibility, quality built (expensive) machinery always wins out. I outta know, I own a job shop.

Having said that, the arena I operate in isn't the arena a home shop operates in. I depend on my machinery to produce accurate parts in a production enviroment.

Bottom line is, buy the best you can afford, always.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #31  
I owned an EMCO MAIER Super 11 (?) lathe which is made in Germany. I feel these are one of the best small toolroom / precision lathes available. I had it for 15 years. It had a 24" cast iron bed, gear head, various chucks and 5c collet closer and was all quick change. I could hold under .001" on most set ups. I used it to make prototype products and for maintenance.

I sold it when I sold my business. Sure miss it.

If you can find a good used machine like this....you would be a happy camper....IMO.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #32  
I owned an EMCO MAIER Super 11 (?) lathe which is made in Germany. I feel these are one of the best small toolroom / precision lathes available. I had it for 15 years. It had a 24" cast iron bed, gear head, various chucks and 5c collet closer and was all quick change. I could hold under .001" on most set ups. I used it to make prototype products and for maintenance.

I sold it when I sold my business. Sure miss it.

If you can find a good used machine like this....you would be a happy camper....IMO.

Another well made machine.

I look at my machine tools as lifetime investments, not something to recycle.

I have 1 machine that is used everyday in a production enviroment that was built in 1943, before I was born and it still holds a half thousandth and one of my Bridgeports is a late 50's model J head that has no readable TIR on the spindle and runs original Timken bearings, never replaced.

The Grizzly or Northern or HF or any low cost oriental stuff will be residing in a landfill or remelted for scrap long before.

We manufacture products that bear the 'Made in USA' logo and are manufactured primarily on American made machines. It's how I run my business, my personal ethic.

I don't really care how a person spends their money. Iknow how I spend mine. I want and demand quality built machines that last with little or no problems other than routine maintenance, machinery that goes the distance and then some and holds it's value.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #33  
The OP didn't say where he is located, used machine tool availability and price varies greatly by location. Here in this part of Idaho machines are few and far between with much higher prices than other parts of the country. I just upgraded from a Atlas/Craftsman 12" benchtop lathe to a free standing 80's vintage South Bend 13". I had to drive over 500 miles roundtrip to fetch the South Bend back from close to the Oregon coast area. When I see the machines and prices on the Portland, OR Craigslist I have to keep a roll of paper towels handy to mop up the :drool: Guys in other parts of the country buy nice machines for scrap prices.

The Atlas/Craftsman is a good learning machine. I made a few parts I have used while building stuff for my tractor. You find the limitations pretty quick as far as 'speeds and feeds'. It is light duty and can take light cuts, this is fine, just takes longer to get things done. The belt drive is nice because when you screw up the belt just slips :eek: Single phase power so you can just plug it in an go. I added an AXA quick change toolpost to it and that helps a lot in speeding up your work where tool changes are involved. No quick change gear box which really slows you down when working on something where you want a slow feed for a nicer finish but then need to switch gears to thread etc.

While the 13" South Bend is still belt technology it is light years better than the Atlas/Craftsman. Three phase power but I got a rotary phase convertor with it, took a bit to get things wired up. I can take much, much heavier cuts than with the Atlas, so far I haven't been brave enough to find the edge of the cutting envelope ;) This one has the 1 3/8 through hole in the spindle and camlock spindle. The bigger the through hole the better. It does have a quick-change gear box which is nice. Spindle speeds are still low by today's standards but fast enough for me.

Practical Machinist and Home Shop Machinist are both good resources to read about various machines, just don't ask questions about Chinese/import machines on Practical Machinist... they are a banned topic.

Do your research and don't be afraid of Craigslist. Just beware of the guys who think just because it is a lathe or old or 'South Bend' or whatever that it is gold-plated under grey paint ;) You have to do some research to find out what prices should generally be for your part of the country. Tooling gets expensive fast so the more you get with it the better.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #34  
I am looking to build a mini lathe, there are plans for a tiny model making lathe on vintage projects.com, it wont be as good as an old southbend, but better then a used chineese lathe. If I was going to buy one, it would be a 1940s-1950s southbend 7x24, in good condition.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #35  
Another well made machine.

I look at my machine tools as lifetime investments, not something to recycle.

I have 1 machine that is used everyday in a production enviroment that was built in 1943, before I was born and it still holds a half thousandth and one of my Bridgeports is a late 50's model J head that has no readable TIR on the spindle and runs original Timken bearings, never replaced.

The Grizzly or Northern or HF or any low cost oriental stuff will be residing in a landfill or remelted for scrap long before.

We manufacture products that bear the 'Made in USA' logo and are manufactured primarily on American made machines. It's how I run my business, my personal ethic.

I don't really care how a person spends their money. Iknow how I spend mine. I want and demand quality built machines that last with little or no problems other than routine maintenance, machinery that goes the distance and then some and holds it's value.

Folks, many of you have lost sight of the OP's questions. They pertain to HOBBY machines. If you want to brag about your production machines, you're in the wrong thread. "Bridgeport" and "hobby" do not belong in the same thread when giving advice on what to buy. I cannot think of any machine I would rather NOT have than a Bridgeport or any other two ton machinist tool.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #36  
Folks, many of you have lost sight of the OP's questions. They pertain to HOBBY machines. If you want to brag about your production machines, you're in the wrong thread. "Bridgeport" and "hobby" do not belong in the same thread when giving advice on what to buy. I cannot think of any machine I would rather NOT have than a Bridgeport or any other two ton machinist tool.

:laughing: Maybe someone should start a thread titled, "My lathe is bigger than your lathe."

If it works out, we could expand it to generators .
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #37  
Folks, many of you have lost sight of the OP's questions. They pertain to HOBBY machines. If you want to brag about your production machines, you're in the wrong thread. "Bridgeport" and "hobby" do not belong in the same thread when giving advice on what to buy. I cannot think of any machine I would rather NOT have than a Bridgeport or any other two ton machinist tool.

Not true. In fact, I know of several hobbyists that have B'ports or Tree's or Wells Index mills. The guy down the road has a Monarch 10EE in his garage for the sole reason of making parts for his hobby, restoring stean threshers. Certainly not a business for profit.

A machine tool, any machine tool, is only as accurate as the mass it presents against deflection by a cutting tool. That applies universally and you, if you are experienced in the trade should know that. Light weight machines are also light weight in accuracy.

Finally, a base Bridgeport weighs about 1300 pounds.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #38  
I'm rather new at this game but just purchased a hobby lathe of my own and am looking forward to working with it. Really, it is hard to pidgeon-hole what a hobby lathe is or should be. For me it was something I could make a tractor part (smallish) on if I wanted to although not the primary use. For the well-heeled boss of my machinist friend (and tutor) it is a 5-axis CNC machine (yes, hobby-only use)! It didn't take me long to figure out weight counts for a lot with respect to tractors - maybe even more than HP. The same for machine tools. Interestingly the motors are smallish.

I think one needs to look at what is out there in relative terms: if you do not "need" a full Bridgeport but can acquire one for the same price as a HF mill/drill then why not? I found a clean, used 13" SB in my local Craig's list with some decent tooling: Buck chuck, Aloris tool post, half dozen holders and a set of Hardinge 5C collets. The only less expensive lathe Grizzly even offers is this one:

G8688 7" x 12" Mini Metal Lathe

I can't see any reason to buy it over the SB.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #39  
If you look at used lathes, get one with as many accessories and as much tooling included as you can. You can spend a small fortune just gatering the stuff to make the lathe usefull.
 
   / Advice on metal lathe #40  
I owned an EMCO MAIER Super 11 (?) lathe which is made in Germany. I feel these are one of the best small toolroom / precision lathes available. I had it for 15 years. It had a 24" cast iron bed, gear head, various chucks and 5c collet closer and was all quick change. I could hold under .001" on most set ups. I used it to make prototype products and for maintenance.

I sold it when I sold my business. Sure miss it.

If you can find a good used machine like this....you would be a happy camper....IMO.

I had a tour of the Emco facility just outside Salzburg Austria...

They were very proud of their small scale CNC machines and worried about a rising Euro would negatively impact their profitability... that was about 10 yeas ago...
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2016 ISUZU NPRXD 14' BOX TRUCK (A60430)
2016 ISUZU NPRXD...
2021 CATERPILLAR GP30N STRAIGHT MAST FORKLIFT (A60429)
2021 CATERPILLAR...
Rhino DB150 (A57148)
Rhino DB150 (A57148)
2014 Ford Edge SUV (A56859)
2014 Ford Edge SUV...
2018 KENWORTH T680 TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A59904)
2018 KENWORTH T680...
John Deere 4510 (A53317)
John Deere 4510...
 
Top