TractorRob
Silver Member
Ouch! On my 96 5.2L dodge the converter was less than $300 at O'Reilly Auto Parts. I'm jut glad I don't live in California, the converter for the same truck for California use was over $500.
Troubleshooting Gutless Dodge 2500
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Ouch! On my 96 5.2L dodge the converter was less than $300 at O'Reilly Auto Parts. I'm jut glad I don't live in California, the converter for the same truck for California use was over $500.
RobertN
Super Member
The one thing I found about the Cat, is in my case it was not that noticeable; it got slowly worse over time. When it actually gave up the ghost, it was noticeable of course.
But when I opened the exhaust up, it felt like someone added a blower and nitro to the truck!
That is the deceptive part. I didn't notice the gradual power loss till it just got really bad(ie pulling the last hill in to Weaverville in 1st gear).
In this case, it would be worth checking that. But, a full tune-up probably wouldn't hurt either...
But when I opened the exhaust up, it felt like someone added a blower and nitro to the truck!
That is the deceptive part. I didn't notice the gradual power loss till it just got really bad(ie pulling the last hill in to Weaverville in 1st gear).
In this case, it would be worth checking that. But, a full tune-up probably wouldn't hurt either...
360's -- had a 78 with it. I never thought it had much oomph versus the 318's I've driven, but it probably did. And I believe the 95+ years are magnum's? Better.
2 vehicles with bad cat's: 78 Volvo 244 and a 93 F350 (460). Both worked fine after running a pipe through the cat. Both passed smog tests as well as they did the year before (I looked at the results sheets). No one was the wiser, except my wallet (the Ford was over $500 from the auto parts stores). Never asked on the Volvo.
Removing a cat to check it out is pretty easy: soak the exhaust bolts a day or two in advance with your choice of magic oil (best I've used is Kroil). You likely only need to remove the front and can move the cat/pipe around enough to see inside.
But you already said you were taking it somewhere. They may still sell "test pipes', though knocking the ceramic liner out will be cheaper and not suspicious.
2 vehicles with bad cat's: 78 Volvo 244 and a 93 F350 (460). Both worked fine after running a pipe through the cat. Both passed smog tests as well as they did the year before (I looked at the results sheets). No one was the wiser, except my wallet (the Ford was over $500 from the auto parts stores). Never asked on the Volvo.
Removing a cat to check it out is pretty easy: soak the exhaust bolts a day or two in advance with your choice of magic oil (best I've used is Kroil). You likely only need to remove the front and can move the cat/pipe around enough to see inside.
But you already said you were taking it somewhere. They may still sell "test pipes', though knocking the ceramic liner out will be cheaper and not suspicious.
Soundguy
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chugging and lurching? HMM.. had that on my 98 dodge in 2000.. took it to the dealer, at first they thought tranny fluid issues.. that wasn't it.. next they reprogrammed the shift points / computer.. that actually made a small change in the problem.. but didn't help it.. left there.. throttle stuck wide open for a second .. had to power brake to slow down and pull off road real quick till safe to kill with the key... restarted fine.... called em back as I was just down the road... limed it back... 25$ throttle position sensor. never done it again...
soundguy
soundguy
Well after reading more of your comments and doing some more research (gotta love the internet :thumbsup
I think what I will try to do is pull the oxygen sensor just in front of the catalytic converter. That's basically opening a hole and if it powers up, I can replace the catalytic converter and call it quits.
I priced out a replacement catalytic converter at Canadian Tire and they can get on in a day or two for $350. That's not too bad I don't think.
If taking out the 02 sensor doesn't do it, then I have to go on with the investigation. And Soundguy, there are other sites out there that also suggest the TPS can be a potential culprit as well. BUT...the vast majority of everything I read, including some Dodge sites, suggests that loss of power in the 2nd generation Dodges like mine is frequently attributed to a clogged cat converter.
I will say, that I'm actually almost enjoying the investigation now though thanks to you guys and my other research. As I said at the onset, I'm not too mechanical, but I was under the truck today spraying so lubricant on the O2 sensor in prep for the test and was kind of enjoying it :ashamed:
Anyway, I'll be sure to post the results of my test once I get at it.
I think what I will try to do is pull the oxygen sensor just in front of the catalytic converter. That's basically opening a hole and if it powers up, I can replace the catalytic converter and call it quits. I priced out a replacement catalytic converter at Canadian Tire and they can get on in a day or two for $350. That's not too bad I don't think.
If taking out the 02 sensor doesn't do it, then I have to go on with the investigation. And Soundguy, there are other sites out there that also suggest the TPS can be a potential culprit as well. BUT...the vast majority of everything I read, including some Dodge sites, suggests that loss of power in the 2nd generation Dodges like mine is frequently attributed to a clogged cat converter.
I will say, that I'm actually almost enjoying the investigation now though thanks to you guys and my other research. As I said at the onset, I'm not too mechanical, but I was under the truck today spraying so lubricant on the O2 sensor in prep for the test and was kind of enjoying it :ashamed:
Anyway, I'll be sure to post the results of my test once I get at it.
Soundguy
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let us know what yer test shows.
soundguy
soundguy
orezok
Super Member
You said that it wasn't throwing any codes. Did you notice if the check engine light came on when you turned on the key?
If you have availability, have someone run a code check. Mopars will store pending codes without turning on the MIL.
I think you can check the codes on that model by doing the ignition on - off - on - off - on within 5 seconds (do not start, just on-off). The mil light will flash the code if any.
If you have availability, have someone run a code check. Mopars will store pending codes without turning on the MIL.
I think you can check the codes on that model by doing the ignition on - off - on - off - on within 5 seconds (do not start, just on-off). The mil light will flash the code if any.
Ok, so I couldn't wait :laughing: I just had to try it.
I unplugged the O2 sensor, unscrewed it from the pipe just ahead of the catalytic converter and pulled it out. I think it looks ok. I've attached a pic of the O2 sensor.
Then I took the Ram out onto the roads and highway around my acreage. Wow! It is a very significant performance improvement! Came up to highway speeds quite easily and then cruised comfortably at 100-110 km/h with the accelerator half way down. Punching it actually resulted in the tranny gearing down and real power getting to the rubber! What a unique experience!! :laughing:
I had a board member point out to me in an IM that the O2 sensor hole should probably only be a partial improvement as some exhaust would still be trying to get through the cat converter. I think he is right and hope that means it may even be a little better.
Now of course I did get a check engine light come on since I had removed the O2 sensor, but that should go off once it is replaced.
So what now? Well, I guess I'll order the catalytic converter and a new O2 sensor. I'm a little hesitant to do that install myself, but then I'm getting more comfortable by the moment!
Thanks to all you guys for your advise on this! It's great to have a place to go where the folks in the know don't belittle the folks in the dark I appreciate it.
I'll be sure to take pics if I take on the install myself and provide an update. Sure hope this is the long term fix!!!
I unplugged the O2 sensor, unscrewed it from the pipe just ahead of the catalytic converter and pulled it out. I think it looks ok. I've attached a pic of the O2 sensor.
Then I took the Ram out onto the roads and highway around my acreage. Wow! It is a very significant performance improvement! Came up to highway speeds quite easily and then cruised comfortably at 100-110 km/h with the accelerator half way down. Punching it actually resulted in the tranny gearing down and real power getting to the rubber! What a unique experience!! :laughing:
I had a board member point out to me in an IM that the O2 sensor hole should probably only be a partial improvement as some exhaust would still be trying to get through the cat converter. I think he is right and hope that means it may even be a little better.
Now of course I did get a check engine light come on since I had removed the O2 sensor, but that should go off once it is replaced.
So what now? Well, I guess I'll order the catalytic converter and a new O2 sensor. I'm a little hesitant to do that install myself, but then I'm getting more comfortable by the moment!
Thanks to all you guys for your advise on this! It's great to have a place to go where the folks in the know don't belittle the folks in the dark
I appreciate it.I'll be sure to take pics if I take on the install myself and provide an update. Sure hope this is the long term fix!!!
Attachments
Egon
Epic Contributor
Uh-oh, is there a mechanic in the making!:thumbsup:
Not sure how the converter fits into the tailpipe section but suggest new clamps rather than trying to use the old ones. An angle grinder comes in handy for cutting the old ones off rather than mess around with trying to save them. If it's in a shop it takes a lot less time to junk the old and install new. There are also times the exhaust pipes just don't want to fit together. Expanders make that a lot easier.
And also be aware that the tailpipe might be pretty thin and then the muffler seems kinda dented and the hangers are getting to the point nothing can hang on them and???
Not sure how the converter fits into the tailpipe section but suggest new clamps rather than trying to use the old ones. An angle grinder comes in handy for cutting the old ones off rather than mess around with trying to save them. If it's in a shop it takes a lot less time to junk the old and install new. There are also times the exhaust pipes just don't want to fit together. Expanders make that a lot easier.
And also be aware that the tailpipe might be pretty thin and then the muffler seems kinda dented and the hangers are getting to the point nothing can hang on them and???
TractorRob
Silver Member
...
So what now? Well, I guess I'll order the catalytic converter and a new O2 sensor. I'm a little hesitant to do that install myself, but then I'm getting more comfortable by the moment!
I believe your install will be virtually the same as mine, so if so, here are some pointers: The install is not bad at all; however, getting the old one off can be a real pain. I had a hard time getting the muffler separated from the catalytic converter. I left the cat attached to the exhaust manifolds until after I got the muffler separated from it so that the cat would be anchored and I could pull the muffler off of it. It took a lot of banging and pulling and twisting(don't do this part with the truck jacked up) before it finally came off. Also, make sure you have the truck up high when you go to actually pull the cat out. It is kind of long and odd shaped with the tubes that run up to the exhaust manifolds, and I barely had room to get mine out(if you have something you can cut the tubes with, it would make this part much easier). The new one is easier to install because it comes in two parts. Make sure you get the clamp between the cat and the muffler tight, I had mine come apart there twice before I got it tight enough. If it does come apart, it won't hurt anything because there are enough hangers to keep it from dragging the ground, it will just all of a suddenly get very loud. As Egon said, I would not bother trying to reuse old clamps. I would also suggest buying new bolts and nuts for the cat to exhaust manifold connections.
Soundguy
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glad to hear you found something that seems deffinate.
good luck on the repair.
soundguy
good luck on the repair.
soundguy
SandburRanch
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If you're considering replacing the converter yourself, check on line prices and don't hesitate to re-cycle your old converter for the possible platinum contained within.
SCRAP CATALYTIC CONVERTER FOR RECYCLING | eBay
SCRAP CATALYTIC CONVERTER FOR RECYCLING | eBay
Dmace
Elite Member
Sounds like your on your way back to MOPOWER! :thumbsup:
Also, look for a "Universal Catalytic Converter" as you can usually get one that bolts right up for much less. For example, a local parts store around here has one for $281 USD. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Catalytic-Converter---Standard-Direct-Fit-Walker_18390112-P_145_R|GRPEXHAAMS_1396907007____
Also, look for a "Universal Catalytic Converter" as you can usually get one that bolts right up for much less. For example, a local parts store around here has one for $281 USD. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Catalytic-Converter---Standard-Direct-Fit-Walker_18390112-P_145_R|GRPEXHAAMS_1396907007____
TractorRob
Silver Member
If by "Universal Catalytic Converter" you are referring to a "Universal Fit" one, then that is not what he needs. He needs a "Direct Fit" one(which the one in your link is). The Direct Fit ones tend to cost more than the Universal Fit ones, but are worth it because they are a direct bolt-in replacement whereas the Universal Fit ones require custom exhaust tubing.
Diamondpilot
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I have worked on cars, boats, trucks, backhoes, bull dozers, tractors, ect for nearly 30 years now. 2 things I have learned.
You are money, time, and frustration ahead to pay to have 2 things done. Them 2 things are exhaust work and suspension work. Usually that stuff is so rusted its a pain and there is always something else you need not on site.
If it were me I would have a shop replace it. This is coming from a shade tree mechanic that works on stuff weekly.
Chris
You are money, time, and frustration ahead to pay to have 2 things done. Them 2 things are exhaust work and suspension work. Usually that stuff is so rusted its a pain and there is always something else you need not on site.
If it were me I would have a shop replace it. This is coming from a shade tree mechanic that works on stuff weekly.
Chris
TractorRob
Silver Member
You may have a point here. Mine was not that difficult, and was easily worth doing it myself as opposed to taking it somewhere; however, there is something I had not considered until just now. The original poster is in Canada, with much different weather than I get in Middle Tennessee(seeing your avatar with the snow plow and snow on the ground is what made me think of it), likely resulting in a rustier exhaust system.
I would try separating the muffler from the cat first, then if successful there try separating the cat from the exhaust manifolds. If any of these connections are too rusted to be able to get apart without cutting, then I would take it somewhere
Those are very good points. I think what I'll likely do is put some penetrating lubricant on the various attachment points and give it a try myself first.
I did look at the various online suppliers for the parts. Not a lot cheaper than the local supplier and this way I can see it and make sure it is the correct fit etc and return it easily if I have problems with it.
This is the type of direct fit one I'm looking to get, although not this exact one:
Magnaflow Direct Fit
They also have a Universal fit but as you can see the universals literally just replace the catalytic converter "box" and I'd have to get it welded into place. Unless there is some kind of sleeve or something you could clamp over the two ends to join them?
Regardless, I will make the order and see what I can do.
I did look at the various online suppliers for the parts. Not a lot cheaper than the local supplier and this way I can see it and make sure it is the correct fit etc and return it easily if I have problems with it.
This is the type of direct fit one I'm looking to get, although not this exact one:
Magnaflow Direct Fit
They also have a Universal fit but as you can see the universals literally just replace the catalytic converter "box" and I'd have to get it welded into place. Unless there is some kind of sleeve or something you could clamp over the two ends to join them?
Regardless, I will make the order and see what I can do.
orezok
Super Member
MikePA
Super Moderator
Amen. I replaced the outlet pipes on a vehicle a lot newer than the OPs. 4 bolts, how hard can it be? I sprayed the bolts the night before and used an impact gun. Added heat. The bolts would not budge. The local muffler shop had to use a cutting torch to get the 2 joints apart. They also had the gaskets needed. Charged $60. Worth every penny.
Here are some similar links:
