BX1850 engine trouble

[MessickFarmEqu]

point from a dealer... in warrenty, never run anything outside the spec for the engine. If this had failed in warrenty, it would be a much more difficult job to get a replacment engine. Even if the oil was not the cause, its going to be the leading suspect, especialy in a failure like this thats so uncommon.

 

[drag_slick]

point from a dealer... in warrenty, never run anything outside the spec for the engine. If this had failed in warrenty, it would be a much more difficult job to get a replacment engine. Even if the oil was not the cause, its going to be the leading suspect, especialy in a failure like this thats so uncommon.

Outside of spec meaning brand, viscosity or both? My dealer actually recommended running 15w-40 which I believe is out of spec.

 

[kuboman]

It wernt the oil!!!!!! 5-30 will not damage any engine in any climate. You had crank bearing failure which was likely a result of poor material or poor assembly which happens even to the best. Slightly elevated silicon is normal, the other metals is bearing material.
Crap happens, to bad it waited till warranty ran out. I had a $15000 engine overhaul go bad at 200hrs because of faulty parts.
Crap happens

 

[IH3444]

Could you tell us the brand of synthetic oil that you used? I am leaning towards the crank, or line bored block crank caps possibly being out of alignment. A bearing cap inadvertantly turned around 180 degrees by mistake during assembly. I would disassemble engine. Inspect, check bores, have crank checked for straightness at a good machine shop. See if undersized bearings were available. Check rod big ends for roundness, resize if out of round. hve aline bore checked for straightness. Turned cranked, with new bearing, torqued properly into the block should turn by hand very easy. If you are not set up for this kind of work, a new short block from the dealer is the most inexpensive way to go.

Synthetic oils are engineered oils with addative packages that out perform standard oils. They are knowned for resistance to shear forces, 3 to 4 times greater than conventional oils. The 5w-40 should not be an issue, especially with no over heating problems. My New Holland manual recommends standard NH oil, 10w-30 for year round operations. A good 5w-40 synthetic oil will out perform that.

 

[dodge man]

I agree with the others, the oil had nothing to do with it, I don't care what Kubota says he should have been running for spec. He could have been using cooking oil in the crankcase and the thing should have lasted 300 hours. There are so many things it could be, until the engine is torn down, we won't know. Even then, the problem may not be obvious.

 

[IH3444]

Drag Slick, Drag Slick......come in Drag Slick, ......beep, beep, beep.

 

[drag_slick]

New engine is in, gotta pick 'er up from the hospital this weekend. My buddy hasn't had a chance to tear into the old one other than dropping the pan.

I'll update when I find out more.

Drag Slick, Drag Slick......come in Drag Slick, ......beep, beep, beep.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I do also have an oil analysis report, if there's any values anybody's curious about, they did flag tin and aluminum as high, and silicon was a little elevated.

The most common cause of hammered bearings is lugging a diesel. If you didn't keep the RPMs up under load, you destroyed the engine.

 

[drag_slick]

The most common cause of hammered bearings is lugging a diesel. If you didn't keep the RPMs up under load, you destroyed the engine.

It wasn't lugged, HST makes it easy NOT to do that.

 

[drag_slick]

Well, apparently it was my fault, I ran her a little dry. This spring I was pushing snow down a hill that runs along the south side of my road. So it was push a pile down, back up, push down, back up, etc... all along the road. Too much time pointing downhill on a pretty decent slope ran the oil to the front of the sump, exposed the pickup and well... the rest is history.

Was an expensive mistake to make.