greg_g
Super Member
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Start by disconnecting the positive battery cable at the battery, then select where you want the relay mounted. I strapped mine directly around the starter housing with two big spiral type hose clamps. But before I go any farther, does your relay have one small post? or two (typically marked "I" and "S") ?
//greg//
//greg//
SPIKER
Elite Member
Greg has you going in the right direction.
The "S" is the Key Start HOT, (turn the key send voltage to the "S" to make the sol pull in.) the voltage then goes from the battery post and out the other side when the coil pulls the contacts in. If the coil/sol also has a terminal marked "I" that is used to send 12V out to the coil on a car/engine when the starter is engaged to start cranking the engine and is used to provide full voltage to the coil under starting conditions. it will not be needed on your tractor but should be capped off so it can not short out anything.
the FORD type SOl there are 2 types, one has a body ground, and one has a post ground. the BODY ground is the most common and are on SO many different things that you can find them every where. usually a cheapish one is less than 8 bucks. these REQUIRE that the sol has good ground between the Frame Mounting of the SOL and the Battery Ground/chassis of the tractor ground. The other type has an extra post, often in the same spot that the "I" is on other sol. this post if it is marked ground or with a ground symbol will need to be tied to the chassis or battery - for the sol to work. You can check the difference if you use the OHMS reading (resistance) on a multi-meter across the 2 small posts if you get a reading across the two prior to installing then you probably have the type that requires an extra wire to the battery ground. if you get a reading between the post marked S and the case of the relay then you have the type that requires a good bond between the SOL body and the tractor frame. you can also check the post marked I to the main battery/starter post for a reading. these two should have a reading between them of 0 ohms if it is truly an "I" ignition post.
Mark
The "S" is the Key Start HOT, (turn the key send voltage to the "S" to make the sol pull in.) the voltage then goes from the battery post and out the other side when the coil pulls the contacts in. If the coil/sol also has a terminal marked "I" that is used to send 12V out to the coil on a car/engine when the starter is engaged to start cranking the engine and is used to provide full voltage to the coil under starting conditions. it will not be needed on your tractor but should be capped off so it can not short out anything.
the FORD type SOl there are 2 types, one has a body ground, and one has a post ground. the BODY ground is the most common and are on SO many different things that you can find them every where. usually a cheapish one is less than 8 bucks. these REQUIRE that the sol has good ground between the Frame Mounting of the SOL and the Battery Ground/chassis of the tractor ground. The other type has an extra post, often in the same spot that the "I" is on other sol. this post if it is marked ground or with a ground symbol will need to be tied to the chassis or battery - for the sol to work. You can check the difference if you use the OHMS reading (resistance) on a multi-meter across the 2 small posts if you get a reading across the two prior to installing then you probably have the type that requires an extra wire to the battery ground. if you get a reading between the post marked S and the case of the relay then you have the type that requires a good bond between the SOL body and the tractor frame. you can also check the post marked I to the main battery/starter post for a reading. these two should have a reading between them of 0 ohms if it is truly an "I" ignition post.
Mark
SPIKER
Elite Member
need to put a meter between the 2 small poles, there should be no connection between the 2 poles internally. if there is connection but average about 18~20 ohms resistance then the one plole is hot from the key and the other pole is the ground back to the battery.
if there is no connectiion check the one pole to the relay metal case. if the connection is there in that same 18~20ohms then the relay is a case ground. you will need to test both small poles to find the correct one that goes to the key start wire that is already on the tractor. (most of them it is a green or yellow wire.) that is on the starter SOL small post.
if you dont have a meter, you can use a flash light and some wire, thsi would take some detail info if you need it let me know.
mark
Connection between the two small poles is about 17.8. No reading from either between pole and case of relay. Does it matter which one goes to the key switch and which goes to ground in this case?
Thanks,
Darwin
PS I took a wire wheel to all battery and ground connections, polished them to a shine, sprayed all w WD40 and re-assembled. No difference. Put the darn mag heater on for a few minutes and it turns over perfectly.
Thanks,
Darwin
PS I took a wire wheel to all battery and ground connections, polished them to a shine, sprayed all w WD40 and re-assembled. No difference. Put the darn mag heater on for a few minutes and it turns over perfectly.
greg_g
Super Member
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Too bad when these things look the same, but get wired up differently inside. Mine's just like in the photo, case grounded right to the starter housing. But I have to 'fess up, my original instructions had the small post connections backwards. My keyswitch wire is actually attached to the "S" post, and the fuse panel (unregulated) feed wire is connected to the "I" post. All else is the same. Been working fine that way for several years.
//greg//
//greg//
Well, I cannot take the starter off right now because we are getting lots of snow but after reading lots of old posts it seems the problem is probably moisture.
I'm betting that there is water in the starter which is freezing and preventing gear engagement. As soon as I put the heater on it, ice melts and starter works. As soon as I get my axle back into my MF I will have a spare tractor and will take off the Jinma starter and tear it down. Someone else had the idea to seal up the casing with RTV Blue or Permatex. Seems like it might be a good solution.
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Darwin
I'm betting that there is water in the starter which is freezing and preventing gear engagement. As soon as I put the heater on it, ice melts and starter works. As soon as I get my axle back into my MF I will have a spare tractor and will take off the Jinma starter and tear it down. Someone else had the idea to seal up the casing with RTV Blue or Permatex. Seems like it might be a good solution.
\
Darwin
greg_g
Super Member
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The problem is not likely moisture. Besides, after you seal it up - it's gonna overheat next summer. Before you waste a second removing the starter, check the voltage where the keyswitch wire connects to the solenoid (hint: voltage is only present while cranking). If it's markedly less than 12v, you've found the biggest part of your problem.
//greg//
//greg//