Adding tilt cylinder to 3 pt

[Builder]

Anyone done this? Just remove one 3 pt lift arm and replace it with a hydraulic cylinder? Then add 2 lines with quick connects and hook up to one of your remotes?

Problem is, if it's not in use, then how could it be "locked" so the cylinder won't move? That way both of my remotes are available for implements that require a sets of remotes.

Sort of like a poor man's top & tilt without the "top" feature.

 

[kennyd]

CCM Has cylinders with lock valve's on them called Pilot Operated Check Valve that will keep the cylinder locked.

Do a search on for "CCM"

 

[JoeL4330]

Has anyone done what you suggest, replaced fixed link w. hydraulic? Yes, many, many and those who didn't would like to. of course, you need a rear remote (but if you install, add three).

high quality cylinders with good seals don't change position much over a short period but can eventually "leak down" ...I had Kubota's Top and Tilt kit cylinders and was reasonably happy with them, but for precision tilt over a longer period I changed to CCM's w. POCV as stated.

 

[Builder]

I already have (2) sets of remotes. I thought (1) set could be used to power a "tilt" cylinder to replace one of the 3pt lift arms. That would leave the other useable for my power angle circuit on my harley rake. It would also allow me to "tilt" a box blade to one side.

What I'd like to be able to do is put down pressure on one side of the rake to create angled swales next to buildings, homes, driveways, etc.

Dos this seem like a plan?

Also, let's say I want to have BOTH my remotes to power something that needs 2 remotes. Can I disconnect the quick connects for the tilt cylinder from one of the remotes and expect it to stay locked tight in place?

I am also hearing that down pressure is hard on the 3pt.

 

[mwb]

You can disconnect the tilt cylinder; the quick connect ends will hold the cylinder position or if you have the CCM setup their pilot valves will do the same thing. You won't really get down pressure using the hydraulic lift, any down pressure will cause the whole 3pt assembly to float. You will get down pressure if your hitch is in the fully raised position and then you force the cylinder down - this is probably not good but it wouldn't be a useable position anyway.

 

[Builder]

You can disconnect the tilt cylinder; the quick connect ends will hold the cylinder position or if you have the CCM setup their pilot valves will do the same thing. You won't really get down pressure using the hydraulic lift, any down pressure will cause the whole 3pt assembly to float. You will get down pressure if your hitch is in the fully raised position and then you force the cylinder down - this is probably not good but it wouldn't be a useable position anyway.

Great observations.

If that's the case, then (please pardon the ignorance) what does the tilt cylinder actually do? Does it just "help" the once side dig in a little more to create angled passes?

 

[mwb]

First thing it does is allow you to hookup equipment easier; if your bushhog is not level with the tractor then the pins are hard to line up. All tractors have an adjustable lift arm (threaded thing with a handle or a crank handle on top) that allows you to achieve the same thing. The hydraulic is just easier and much faster.
For working, the hyd does allow you to angle your implement (like a read blade for crowning, etc) but you can do this manually with the existing screw adjustment.

My old Ford had a hand crank on the top of this adjustment so you could angle from the seat - I would not think it would be worth the expense to change to hyd. My new machine has a very inconvenient adjustment that you can only do by getting off the machine and reaching in between the lift arms, etc.

Hydraulic is very easy and fast and might offer a larger adjustment range than the manual. Other than that they are equivalent.

 

[jinman]

Great observations.

If that's the case, then (please pardon the ignorance) what does the tilt cylinder actually do? Does it just "help" the once side dig in a little more to create angled passes?

When you have a hydraulic tilt cylinder, it works best with a boxblade to allow you to cut a sloped grade by dropping or raising one side of the box. It's most effective when you don't drop the 3PH all the way down, but rather drop it just until the lower side contacts the ground. Then the weight of the box will cut a sloped grade. I also find it handy for use with a rotary cutter, tiller, and Dearborn cultivator. I don't use my 2-bottom plow much, but when I did, the abilty to adjust the tilt on-the-fly for the best plowing was a big plus.

The best setup would be to have a diverter valve so that you could set the tilt and then divert the remote for other implements with the ability to easily divert back to correct or change the tilt angle. That's alot more hoses and fittings than the simple 1-remote = 1 function usage. I have three remotes on my tractor and all I have to do is grab the right lever of the three. . . which is becoming harder to remember as I get older.

 

[Builder]

With 2 remotes, I think I can make this work. Most of my implements only require 1 remote. Might as well use the other remote for a tilt function.

Let's say the hydraulic link is on my tractor and I want to do some mowing with a rotary mower. Is the CCM type hydraulic cylinder locked up tight enough that I won't have to keep adjusting it?

 

[jinman]

Let's say the hydraulic link is on my tractor and I want to do some mowing with a rotary mower. Is the CCM type hydraulic cylinder locked up tight enough that I won't have to keep adjusting it?

Yes. Cylinders with DPOCVs are solid as a rock. My sidelink is a TISCO without a DPOCV, and I don't have any problem with drift, but a CCM cylinder will be even better. My toplink is a CCM and after many years, it still performs flawlessly.

 

[Builder]

Thanks.

This looks like a no-brainer, fairly economical upgrade to my tractor since I do enough dirt work with the harley rake and box blade.

 

[Farmer John]

One of the previous owners of my MF 3165 did this. At first I thought I would eliminate the system because it was pretty beat & rusty, but after on day of using it, I spent some money, replaced both rams with new ones, & relocated the control valves onto the right fender (they were located on a plate in front of the seat that made it awkward to use the valve & impossible to use 3rd gear). The person that set it up put the hand crank arm on the left side which is nice to have...

 

[MJPetersen]

I do not know Farmer--It seems to me that the valve location would be a whole lot less inconvenient than having to stand or certainly less uncomfortable than sitting on the metal seat brackets according to your pic!!

Mike

 

[Farmer John]

I do not know Farmer--It seems to me that the valve location would be a whole lot less inconvenient than having to stand or certainly less uncomfortable than sitting on the metal seat brackets according to your pic!!

Mike

I had the seat off while fixing the control valve.
The way the guy had it set up, you had to have the seat folded back to work the controls.

 

[MJPetersen]

That is what I figured, but the pic struck me funny!

Mike

 

[jinman]

In the spirit of giving you a hard time. . .that industrial tire on the left and ag tire on the right gives you best of both worlds doesn't it?

 

[Ford850]

In the spirit of giving you a hard time. . .that industrial tire on the left and ag tire on the right gives you best of both worlds doesn't it?

I think Farmer John needs to participate in R1 vs R4 debates.

 

[Builder]

I think Farmer John needs to participate in R1 vs R4 debates.

Perfect! He can be on both sides and never lose!

 

[Farmer John]

LOL!

When I get the $$ I'm going to replace the industrial tire. It kinda sucks in the dirt we have in the Santa Cruz Mountains. For what I paid for the tractor I'm just happy they hold air

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Builder, if you want to make it yourself, get either a 2 1/2" or 3" cylinder with a 6" stroke. (I would use a 2 1/2" for your Challenger) Take your stationary side link and use the factory ends off of it. Put your adjustable link on the left side and after installing the hydraulic side link on the right, adjust the left side so that both links are level with the hydraulic link extended 3". You are now set and have equal tilt left and right.

Oh, get either a 3rd control valve, or at least a diverter valve, you won't be sorry. I would have figured that you would have had "TnT" already.