Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520

[jimgerken]

Then the block goes back into the tractor, between the transmission and DSCV, as it was originally. The cap screws get tightened, and the banjo bolt goes back in and torqued. That step being complete makes me feel less stress. Here is a side view and a rear view of the hoses routing out of there.

 

[jimgerken]

And here is the view of the valve, from the rear end, hoses routed in and out on each side. That's as far as I could get last nite. Also, I started putting the fittings and couplers on top of the valve, its going to be a mess. Gotta get creative on this next part.

 

[jimgerken]

I relocated the seat belt storage clips. Originally they were both behind the seat, on the ROPS crossbar. My hyd valve sets right there on the one side, so I relocated that side. Then I liked the new position so well I relocated the other one too. To do this I took the handle off, and added the bracket and retorqued the nuts from below. The left hand side didnt work out as well, so there I had to slot the seat belt storage bracket slightly to allow it to mount flat under the handle properly. Pics...

 

[Farmerford]

That is beautiful work. Your planning shows up well.

Regarding the quick disconnects on the top of valve. Consider an elbow with an O-ring boss on the long leg and a female pipe thread on the short leg for the middle port. The elbow sticks up above the fittings on each side far enough to let you turn it parallel to a side fitting. Part no 6805LL as Discount Hydraulic Hose. Sometimes you can find a regular length, "long", and "extra long" so that the tops of the fittings will be at three different levels.

 

[montejw]

Awesome job!

Monte

 

[crbr]

Again, a great job.

Setting that aside, the thing I enjoy most about this thread and your project is watching / reading you enjoying yourself with the work at hand. I can see that you have exceptional skill-sets, patience, and attention span.

It's all I can do with my patience and attention, to hook up the FEL without losing sight of what it is for which I need to use it.


Thanks for sharing because aside from your time in the shop, it takes a lot of time here to post and inform.

:tiphat:

 

[RollTideRam]

As a 2520 owner I'm really enjoying this thread and anxious to see how well it works. Thanks for taking time to document and show pictures of your very nice work. Although I have no ability to even copy what you are doing, it will be a very good reference when I get around to adding a rear remote on my 2520. JC

 

[jimgerken]

Thanks ! for all the nice feedback guys. I do enjoy doing this stuff so telling you all about it and showing off the pictures just adds to the fun for me.

After a minor incident with one pinched O-ring causing hydraulic fluid leaking all over my floor, I am back on track. Suffice it to say, "If you think that an O-ring is going to stay in place during assembly without applying grease to hold it there, guess again". The large O-ring behind the "block" got pinched, so watch out for that.

The current solution for the congestion of couplers on top of the valve is to route the center spool (two couplers) to a remote panel area and mount the couplers there. This will work out just fine because that center spool was to be split to both the couplers in the back and two couplers mounted near the loader couplers on the side of the tractor. So here is what the top of the valve looks like. Notice that the center spool connections are just plugged for now.

 

[jimgerken]

And the supply and return lines that feed this aux valve are secured with a couple clamps. Here is a view looking downward past the valve, following the hoses.

 

[jimgerken]

and here is the rear view, with the top cylinder and sidelink cylinder all plumbed up, although I am still experimenting with hose length and fitting orientation to get the hoses to flow nicely when the three point moves.

 

[jimgerken]

Here are the two coupler mounting panels I cut from stainless, before any bending or anything. The couplers have a snap ring groove on them, which holds them in a hole, if you can get the hole the right size.

Another pic shows one coupler snap ringed in there.

 

[jimgerken]

And here a couple pics showing the panels mounted in place.

 

[jimgerken]

That's about it. I sent for a few more hoses and fittings to try making some routings better. And I still need to plumb to the remote coupler panels with hoses and T fittings, but none of that will be picture-worthy. Later I will plumb on the loader frame too, to carry this circuit to the loader frame cross-member, where I will have two more couplers, to allow powering my grapple cylinder. Thats all pretty boring hose-routing stuff though. So I am calling this project complete. I used the tractor for a bit of loader work this weekend and the auxillary valve location is good I feel. It is not in the way for normal operations, yet it is in nice position when you want to access it. I may add a small orifice restrictor to the sidelink circuit, as it seems too fast now. So, this thread is a wrap. Enjoy. Hopefully it can be found with a quick search when needed in the future.

 

[MikeB44]

Very nice job Jim. Looks like it was factory installed!

I would like to add rear remotes to my Kubota 3010 at some point. Factory parts are $800 for each remote, which seem very high to me (of course I'm not seeing the work involved for their parts).

Couple of questions -

What did the project cost? A breakdown of major items & their costs would be helpful, if you would not mind. (valve, hoses, cylinders, etc).
Any idea on what the factory parts, or dealer installation would have cost?

And a really dumb question, which shows my limited knowledge of hydraulics, - If I wanted to do a similar project for my Kubota, is there a component that I would need to have on my tractor prior to starting, or is what you have done a replacement for the factory rear remotes?

Many thanks for documenting this. I have learned alot from your work here.

Mike

 

[dullpain]

A set screw, John Deere part number PT13744, must be threaded into the block, inside the "front facing" port.

Just curious - How did you learn to block this port - Why do you block this port?

thanks

 

[kennyd]

Just curious - How did you learn to block this port - Why do you block this port?

thanks

I can answer this, as I did the same thing on my 4110, the screw stops the fluid from flowing "through" the block, and directs it to the OUT port.

 

[jimgerken]

I can answer this, as I did the same thing on my 4110, the screw stops the fluid from flowing "through" the block, and directs it to the OUT port.

Yea, what Kenny said. The set screw changes the flow so it has to flow out one port and back in the other. In other words, if you did the set screw, put it all back together, and did not add the auxillary valve which allows the fluid to flow thru and return, your loader wouldnt work. The open center hydraulics depends on continuous flow thru all valves.

Actually I learned this trick right here on TBN. I am very sorry I cannot give due credit to the guy who told me this first. It was in 2001, when I was doing my 4100. I happened to ask the right question and was taught this.

Once you understand what to do, you realize that the John Deere Power Beyond kit contains a block with a setscrew in it already. And fittings atttached. And hoses. If you buy the hoses you really want, and now that you know the fittings are SAE 6 threads so you buy those two $5 fittings, and you get the JD part setscrew for $1.38, you are all set and just saved over $200. The block itself is identical, in my experience.

 

[jimgerken]

Very nice job Jim. Looks like it was factory installed!

I would like to add rear remotes to my Kubota 3010 at some point. Factory parts are $800 for each remote, which seem very high to me (of course I'm not seeing the work involved for their parts).

Couple of questions -

What did the project cost? A breakdown of major items & their costs would be helpful, if you would not mind. (valve, hoses, cylinders, etc).
Any idea on what the factory parts, or dealer installation would have cost?

And a really dumb question, which shows my limited knowledge of hydraulics, - If I wanted to do a similar project for my Kubota, is there a component that I would need to have on my tractor prior to starting, or is what you have done a replacement for the factory rear remotes?

Many thanks for documenting this. I have learned alot from your work here.

Mike

Cost, from memory:
JD setscrew $1.38
two right angle SAE 6 fittings about $10.00
valve, three-spool Prince sectional $280.00
Top link cylinder already preped $179.00
sidelink cylinder to be mod'ed $135.00
hoses fittings couplers about $300.00
labor for fabrication & plumbing, about 20 hours
metal for brackets and plates about $15.00

I don't know what JD would get for this. I doubt that you can get three additional spools for the 2520. There might be one available. I am guessing they'd want about $650 for that one, judging by the price on the stock Power Beyond kit.

As far as your Kubota, I don't know what the details of your hydraulic system is, but the starting point is to get the hydraulic flow out to the valve of your choice. So , whatever they call it, you need the equivalvent of the Power Beyond kit, or know how to tap into the series flow as I described. There are many good choices for valves, just make sure to get one that is rated for your tractor's hydraulic flow in gallons per minute. Finding space to mount the valve is a battle on these small tractors. My "forward controls" idea can allow you to place the valve back further and still control it well. Ask questions here on TBN, with nice specific thread title(s). Someone has done it before, most likely. Good luck!

 

[crbr]

Thanks again for sharing. Most beneficial.

Archived...


:tiphat:

 

[RollTideRam]

If in a few weeks, you decide you don't like what you made and want to sell....
I know that is not going to happen, very nice work and write up, Thanks for sharing. JC