John Deere JD2720 Reviews
Really Good Tractor Stopped Short Of Being Great By John Deere's Lack Of Forethought
Model Year: 2012
I purchased my John Deere 2720 in April 2013 to replace a much older John Deere 755 that needed some major work. I purchased the 62D driver-over mower deck and box blade as well. While I primarily use the tractor for residential mowing I wanted a more powerful tractor with more capability and that I could grow into. I looked at "other brands" but John Deere seemed to offer the best overall value. So let me cover the pros to start with. First, I continue to be impressed with the fuel economy of this tractor (seems to just sip diesel) and the four-wheel drive gives me sure-footed traction in areas that are less than flat. The Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel produces plenty of power. The 62D drive-over mowing deck is nice and can easily be connected by one person with a little practice. The tractor is solid, well built and handles easily with a very tight turning radius. All in all, I am quite pleased with my investment and the performance of the tractor. Now for the cons - My only complaints are really what I consider lack of forethought by John Deere when this machine was being designed. This mainly concerns operator comfort. Considering the amount of money I paid for this tractor in 2013, tilt steering and a seat with better suspension and greater travel distance should have been standard features. Now, I'm 6'1" and a bit heavy but not fat by any means. Even with the seat adjusted all the way to the rearmost position I still cannot stand up to dismount the tractor without banging the front of my thighs into the steering wheel. Mounting the tractor isn't a problem so long as you do so only from the left side of the machine and then be sure to lead with your left foot. Climbing down, however, involves some pretty fancy footwork that can result in a nasty fall if you aren't careful (yes, it happened to me - once!). As for the seat suspension, John Deere took the cheap route and provided two spring-like rubber bumpers under the bottom of the seat. Rather than cushioning the seat they served only to transmit every bump and jolt directly to your lower spine while operating the tractor. They finally began to dry rot and break down. I contacted my local John Deere dealer, explained the situation and they suggested replacing the "bumpers" with actual seat springs from a John Deere ZTR mower. I did so and the ride is now much better although still not what it should be, in my opinion. The seat itself is fine even without arm rests (would have been nice) but it would also help if there was a bit more travel in the seat adjustment to help compensate for the lack of tilt steering. When you pay a premium price for a piece of equipment like this you expect the operator's station to be thoroughly thought out and every comfort feature addressed. Sadly, this was not the case. I do fault myself somewhat for not catching this. I wasn't offered a demo opportunity by my dealer so I made the purchase decision based on what I thought was really important by just sitting on the machine. It was only after I had owned the machine for a while that the severity of these shortcomings really started to become apparent. Another area of concern is the hydraulic connections. When the mower deck is removed they are completely unprotected and too close to the ground. Some sort of shield or skid plate should have been designed to fit around the connections from underneath. John Deere really didn't need to re-design this entire tractor family when they could have simply addressed some of the shortcomings by offering "conversion/upfit" packages for those existing customers who wanted to improve their machines. Instead, their "all new" 2032R (my 2720 w/ upgrades) is now available for the princely sum of about $23,000.00, which is about $5,000.00 more than I paid for my entire package in 2013. I guess it made more sense to John Deere to re-design and increase the price than to offer some sort of retrofit packages like a suspension seat or manufacturer subsidized/dealer installed tilt steering with the customer paying a fair price for the retrofit. No, they needed to redesign for the added profit and to once and for all sort out their confusing model series numbers (2320/2520/2720 now 2025R/2032R/2038R ??)!! What a mess. As I said - a really good machine stopped short of being great by John Deere's lack of design forethought.
Pros: Plenty of power, great fuel economy, solid, well built, reasonably quiet and clean running, easy handling/turn radius and four-wheel drive traction
Cons: No tilt steering, poor seat suspension, needs additional seat travel distance, hydraulic connections too exposed and close to ground
Model Year: 2012
I purchased my John Deere 2720 in April 2013 to replace a much older John Deere 755 that needed some major work. I purchased the 62D driver-over mower deck and box blade as well. While I primarily use the tractor for residential mowing I wanted a more powerful tractor with more capability and that I could grow into. I looked at "other brands" but John Deere seemed to offer the best overall value. So let me cover the pros to start with. First, I continue to be impressed with the fuel economy of this tractor (seems to just sip diesel) and the four-wheel drive gives me sure-footed traction in areas that are less than flat. The Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel produces plenty of power. The 62D drive-over mowing deck is nice and can easily be connected by one person with a little practice. The tractor is solid, well built and handles easily with a very tight turning radius. All in all, I am quite pleased with my investment and the performance of the tractor. Now for the cons - My only complaints are really what I consider lack of forethought by John Deere when this machine was being designed. This mainly concerns operator comfort. Considering the amount of money I paid for this tractor in 2013, tilt steering and a seat with better suspension and greater travel distance should have been standard features. Now, I'm 6'1" and a bit heavy but not fat by any means. Even with the seat adjusted all the way to the rearmost position I still cannot stand up to dismount the tractor without banging the front of my thighs into the steering wheel. Mounting the tractor isn't a problem so long as you do so only from the left side of the machine and then be sure to lead with your left foot. Climbing down, however, involves some pretty fancy footwork that can result in a nasty fall if you aren't careful (yes, it happened to me - once!). As for the seat suspension, John Deere took the cheap route and provided two spring-like rubber bumpers under the bottom of the seat. Rather than cushioning the seat they served only to transmit every bump and jolt directly to your lower spine while operating the tractor. They finally began to dry rot and break down. I contacted my local John Deere dealer, explained the situation and they suggested replacing the "bumpers" with actual seat springs from a John Deere ZTR mower. I did so and the ride is now much better although still not what it should be, in my opinion. The seat itself is fine even without arm rests (would have been nice) but it would also help if there was a bit more travel in the seat adjustment to help compensate for the lack of tilt steering. When you pay a premium price for a piece of equipment like this you expect the operator's station to be thoroughly thought out and every comfort feature addressed. Sadly, this was not the case. I do fault myself somewhat for not catching this. I wasn't offered a demo opportunity by my dealer so I made the purchase decision based on what I thought was really important by just sitting on the machine. It was only after I had owned the machine for a while that the severity of these shortcomings really started to become apparent. Another area of concern is the hydraulic connections. When the mower deck is removed they are completely unprotected and too close to the ground. Some sort of shield or skid plate should have been designed to fit around the connections from underneath. John Deere really didn't need to re-design this entire tractor family when they could have simply addressed some of the shortcomings by offering "conversion/upfit" packages for those existing customers who wanted to improve their machines. Instead, their "all new" 2032R (my 2720 w/ upgrades) is now available for the princely sum of about $23,000.00, which is about $5,000.00 more than I paid for my entire package in 2013. I guess it made more sense to John Deere to re-design and increase the price than to offer some sort of retrofit packages like a suspension seat or manufacturer subsidized/dealer installed tilt steering with the customer paying a fair price for the retrofit. No, they needed to redesign for the added profit and to once and for all sort out their confusing model series numbers (2320/2520/2720 now 2025R/2032R/2038R ??)!! What a mess. As I said - a really good machine stopped short of being great by John Deere's lack of design forethought.
Pros: Plenty of power, great fuel economy, solid, well built, reasonably quiet and clean running, easy handling/turn radius and four-wheel drive traction
Cons: No tilt steering, poor seat suspension, needs additional seat travel distance, hydraulic connections too exposed and close to ground
John Deere 2720
Model Year: 2013
I traded a 455 for the 2720. We have a 62" tiller, 7' landscape rake, 5' bush hog, 62" drive over deck, 200 series loader, potato plow, 78" front snow blade and spreader. Best addition is the I-quick 3 point hitch. This has been a great addition and is such a durable compact tractor. I'm a 100% raised John Deere person on the farm, so am biased. Would by another without question. It's been used for multiple tasks and yet to let us down.
Pros: It's a John Deere, quick detach loader, drive over deck & I match hitch.
Cons: Low profile and limited protection of value components located under the tractor.
Model Year: 2013
I traded a 455 for the 2720. We have a 62" tiller, 7' landscape rake, 5' bush hog, 62" drive over deck, 200 series loader, potato plow, 78" front snow blade and spreader. Best addition is the I-quick 3 point hitch. This has been a great addition and is such a durable compact tractor. I'm a 100% raised John Deere person on the farm, so am biased. Would by another without question. It's been used for multiple tasks and yet to let us down.
Pros: It's a John Deere, quick detach loader, drive over deck & I match hitch.
Cons: Low profile and limited protection of value components located under the tractor.
JD 2720 Review
Model Year: 2012
This is my first tractor and although I've only had it for a few months, it's been put to good use doing a variety of tasks and it has performed well for me. I bought a Wallenstein BX42 chipper a couple months ago to clean up the woods and that thing works great with this size tractor, so the PTO has already earned its room and board. I've also excavated a 12' X 24' hole in my yard for a swimming pool that's going in next month so the tractor has proven to be very handy in that regard as well. The ground here is almost entirely sand and I used what I excavated from the hole to back-fill around a new detached garage I just built about 60 feet away from the future pool. The four wheel drive has gotten me out a bunch of times but I try not to use it unless its needed because I can feel it bind at times when I'm steering even on dirt and other soft surfaces. I just figure why put the wear on it when I don't need it. I'm currently using the loader to move multiple face cords of firewood to another location on my property and that's something I used to do with a wheel barrow so it's a great tool to have. The hydro-static drive is absolutely great to have and this particular tractor is highly maneuverable and just the right size for what I need. I have very few complaints, probably because it's still so new. It seems like the loader control can be quirky, particularly when trying to dump a load. I have to get just the right lever position to get it to dump quickly or the bucket moves very slowly. I also find that engaging the second rear wheel with the foot pedal can be a challenge at times for some reason when I need additional traction. Maybe this is a normal condition on any tractor but it's something I've noticed so I figure I'll mention it. I've been able to get a feel for moving the lower hand lever from two to four wheel drive and moving the upper drive lever from neutral to low or high because they don't always go easily. Sometimes it just takes a slight rocking of the tractor or a slight push on the forward or reverse pedal to engage either function. I guess that's just how tractors work. It does seem to use very little fuel and it's often easier to drive than my pickup truck. I've learned to respect the danger of tipping it over and making sure I have the ballast box on the back when moving materials around because there have been a couple occasions when the tractor has come off the ground in different ways. Overall it's been a great investment and I'm glad I got the size I did. I own 2 1/2 acres of mostly 80-foot pine and maple trees and this tractor will surely help me to manage it.
Pros: Maneuverable in small areas, easy to drive, great material mover, easy on fuel, comfortable seat and controls, relatively quiet, and versatile.
Cons: FEL control lever can be temperamental at times.
Model Year: 2012
This is my first tractor and although I've only had it for a few months, it's been put to good use doing a variety of tasks and it has performed well for me. I bought a Wallenstein BX42 chipper a couple months ago to clean up the woods and that thing works great with this size tractor, so the PTO has already earned its room and board. I've also excavated a 12' X 24' hole in my yard for a swimming pool that's going in next month so the tractor has proven to be very handy in that regard as well. The ground here is almost entirely sand and I used what I excavated from the hole to back-fill around a new detached garage I just built about 60 feet away from the future pool. The four wheel drive has gotten me out a bunch of times but I try not to use it unless its needed because I can feel it bind at times when I'm steering even on dirt and other soft surfaces. I just figure why put the wear on it when I don't need it. I'm currently using the loader to move multiple face cords of firewood to another location on my property and that's something I used to do with a wheel barrow so it's a great tool to have. The hydro-static drive is absolutely great to have and this particular tractor is highly maneuverable and just the right size for what I need. I have very few complaints, probably because it's still so new. It seems like the loader control can be quirky, particularly when trying to dump a load. I have to get just the right lever position to get it to dump quickly or the bucket moves very slowly. I also find that engaging the second rear wheel with the foot pedal can be a challenge at times for some reason when I need additional traction. Maybe this is a normal condition on any tractor but it's something I've noticed so I figure I'll mention it. I've been able to get a feel for moving the lower hand lever from two to four wheel drive and moving the upper drive lever from neutral to low or high because they don't always go easily. Sometimes it just takes a slight rocking of the tractor or a slight push on the forward or reverse pedal to engage either function. I guess that's just how tractors work. It does seem to use very little fuel and it's often easier to drive than my pickup truck. I've learned to respect the danger of tipping it over and making sure I have the ballast box on the back when moving materials around because there have been a couple occasions when the tractor has come off the ground in different ways. Overall it's been a great investment and I'm glad I got the size I did. I own 2 1/2 acres of mostly 80-foot pine and maple trees and this tractor will surely help me to manage it.
Pros: Maneuverable in small areas, easy to drive, great material mover, easy on fuel, comfortable seat and controls, relatively quiet, and versatile.
Cons: FEL control lever can be temperamental at times.
Hobby Farm
Model Year: 2012
I'm retired and now have the time to complete all the jobs that needed to be done. I have 7.5 acres with good size garden, small fruit orchard, pond and trees. The 2720 JD is 31hp with power steering, 4 wheel drive. I have a box tiller, rock rake,finish mower, post hole digger, bucket loader, brush hog and snowblower. I have used all implements except the snow blower. All work very well. I did improve the bucket loaders performance by adding a set of bolt on teeth.
Pros: Easy to run, good amount of power.
Cons: None.
Model Year: 2012
I'm retired and now have the time to complete all the jobs that needed to be done. I have 7.5 acres with good size garden, small fruit orchard, pond and trees. The 2720 JD is 31hp with power steering, 4 wheel drive. I have a box tiller, rock rake,finish mower, post hole digger, bucket loader, brush hog and snowblower. I have used all implements except the snow blower. All work very well. I did improve the bucket loaders performance by adding a set of bolt on teeth.
Pros: Easy to run, good amount of power.
Cons: None.
John Deere 2720
Model Year: 2010
Very nice tractor, lots of power. I traded up from a J.D. 755 with no regrets but would have purchased a 955 with low hours if I could have found one. The 2720 has nice features but as anything else is pricey. This tractor seams to be reliable though I only have 95 hours on it to date. My dealer has been very good at repairing and/or replacing the few problems it had.
Pros: Real workhorse.
Cons: Could have made mid mower more like the x55 series.
Model Year: 2010
Very nice tractor, lots of power. I traded up from a J.D. 755 with no regrets but would have purchased a 955 with low hours if I could have found one. The 2720 has nice features but as anything else is pricey. This tractor seams to be reliable though I only have 95 hours on it to date. My dealer has been very good at repairing and/or replacing the few problems it had.
Pros: Real workhorse.
Cons: Could have made mid mower more like the x55 series.
Happy with my Purchase
Model Year: 2011
I was on the fence for years as to what tractor I should buy. Finally I made the decision to go with John Deere. I purchased a 2720 with a 200CX loader, a mid-mount 62D drive on deck and a 54” snow blower. I read many comments from others regarding the positive and negatives of both Kubota and John Deere. The positives related to John Deere tractors made more sense to me than those related to Kubota. I like that the independent brake pedals are on the left, while the hydrostatic pedal is on the right. I don’t understand the need for high, medium and low ranges that is available on Kubota tractors. Some find this a necessary feature. I can go any speed I want with just the two speed ranges found on my John Deere. Those two issues were the biggest considerations I saw between people who compared the two tractors. I chose to purchase the John Deere before I did a price comparison. I was very happy that I did one anyway. Locally, the John Deere 2720 was a little more than $1,000.00 less than the Kubota B2920. Those prices were with the largest bucket available on the JD and other high level upgrades and standard options on the Kubota. The Kubota is lighter, has slightly less rated hp and now that I’ve owned the John Deere for a while, I can see that the Kubota is considerably smaller in size. Fit and finish on the JD is better as well. At least I think so. I’ve been very happy with the power this tractor has. I considered the JD 2520 but gave up that idea when there was little more than 1k in price difference and the 2720 was actually rated as using less fuel than the 2520. I can’t believe how little fuel this tractor uses. It now has 13 hours on it and I’ve burned 10 gallons of fuel. That’s it. I will continue to monitor to see how much fuel it averages but if anything, it seems to be using less instead of more. I’ve mowed my lawn four times, tilled my garden with a 5’ Countypride tiller and done yard work. I’ve found that mowing does not require nearly the rated rpm as suggested. I can easily mow at around 1700 rpm. I till at 2500, only to keep the tines at high speed, not to keep the power up. The tractor can till at any speed easily. I’m very happy with this tractor and would do it again in a second. I only wish that I would have purchased it years ago.
Pros: Power, sips fuel, perfect size, & capability.
Cons: Only small picky items most won't care about.
Model Year: 2011
I was on the fence for years as to what tractor I should buy. Finally I made the decision to go with John Deere. I purchased a 2720 with a 200CX loader, a mid-mount 62D drive on deck and a 54” snow blower. I read many comments from others regarding the positive and negatives of both Kubota and John Deere. The positives related to John Deere tractors made more sense to me than those related to Kubota. I like that the independent brake pedals are on the left, while the hydrostatic pedal is on the right. I don’t understand the need for high, medium and low ranges that is available on Kubota tractors. Some find this a necessary feature. I can go any speed I want with just the two speed ranges found on my John Deere. Those two issues were the biggest considerations I saw between people who compared the two tractors. I chose to purchase the John Deere before I did a price comparison. I was very happy that I did one anyway. Locally, the John Deere 2720 was a little more than $1,000.00 less than the Kubota B2920. Those prices were with the largest bucket available on the JD and other high level upgrades and standard options on the Kubota. The Kubota is lighter, has slightly less rated hp and now that I’ve owned the John Deere for a while, I can see that the Kubota is considerably smaller in size. Fit and finish on the JD is better as well. At least I think so. I’ve been very happy with the power this tractor has. I considered the JD 2520 but gave up that idea when there was little more than 1k in price difference and the 2720 was actually rated as using less fuel than the 2520. I can’t believe how little fuel this tractor uses. It now has 13 hours on it and I’ve burned 10 gallons of fuel. That’s it. I will continue to monitor to see how much fuel it averages but if anything, it seems to be using less instead of more. I’ve mowed my lawn four times, tilled my garden with a 5’ Countypride tiller and done yard work. I’ve found that mowing does not require nearly the rated rpm as suggested. I can easily mow at around 1700 rpm. I till at 2500, only to keep the tines at high speed, not to keep the power up. The tractor can till at any speed easily. I’m very happy with this tractor and would do it again in a second. I only wish that I would have purchased it years ago.
Pros: Power, sips fuel, perfect size, & capability.
Cons: Only small picky items most won't care about.
2010 John Deere 2720
Model Year: 2010
Use this tractor in a residential snow-blowing business doing street and driveway clearing in a mountain community. Tractor is equipped with a CX200 loader and an SB1154 rear-mounted snow blower. The 2720 seems to have plenty of power and is a versatile snow machine using both the loader and the blower for efficient removal. Only complaint is that the only wheel weights available from John Deere for this machine cover the wheel lug nuts and obstruct the valve stem. Terrible design for the wheel weights.
Pros: Fuel Efficient, power, build quality, and size.
Cons: Track could be wider.
Photo Uploads:
Model Year: 2010
Use this tractor in a residential snow-blowing business doing street and driveway clearing in a mountain community. Tractor is equipped with a CX200 loader and an SB1154 rear-mounted snow blower. The 2720 seems to have plenty of power and is a versatile snow machine using both the loader and the blower for efficient removal. Only complaint is that the only wheel weights available from John Deere for this machine cover the wheel lug nuts and obstruct the valve stem. Terrible design for the wheel weights.
Pros: Fuel Efficient, power, build quality, and size.
Cons: Track could be wider.
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John Deere 2720 vs Kubota B2920
Model Year: 2011
After purchasing my new John Deere 2720 and using it for a few days, I stopped by my local Kubota dealer to take a second look at the alternative tractor I was considering, a Kubota B2920. It’s amazing how the differences between the two seemed so slight just a few weeks ago but now seem to be huge. My John Deere 2720 has 31.4hp, a 62D mid-mount deck, 200CX loader and 54” two stage snowblower. The spec’s for the Kubota rate it as a few hundred pounds lighter and at 29hp. It too is at the top of the Kubota 2000 series in hp, as is my John Deere 2000 series, with three levels offered as well. The difference between 29 and 31.4 is only slight. Speaking of spec’s, I decided after reviewing numbers for weeks that you can’t take actual hydraulic strength specifications from any manufacturer as gospel, as weights at lift points are hard to translate from one brand to another, some break-out forces have adjustments and I have to believe these numbers should only be used as a rough estimate. As an estimate, the tractors are not only close in hp but are close in terms of lifting capacities as well. Personally I prefer to look at the size of elements to determine for myself which is stronger or perhaps, which might last longer if both lift the same amount. I also look at fit and finish, paint quality and overall design. Under these parameters, the John Deere is far superior to the Kubota. The Kubota B2920 is considerably smaller. The hood height has to be 5” lower and probably 4” narrower. It is also smaller and lighter looking everywhere. Sure you save maybe 350lbs. of weight with the Kubota. But, the B2920 that I priced with the same attachments as my John Deere was $1,000.00 more than the John Deere. Comparing the two tractors side by side, I don’t see a single piece of the Kubota as larger in size or more capable. The ROP’s on the Kubota looks cheap, as do many other elements, built to the minimum requirement to serve its function. There is nothing wrong with that but why not get more if it doesn’t cost more? The John Deere ROP’s is almost twice the size of the Kubota, has better quality clevis pins and folding design. Same goes for three point hitch size, and almost everything else on the tractor as well. Bucket capacity of my top of the line 2720 bucket has to be 50% larger than the Kubota’s and probably weighs 50% more. I can’t stand the site of a hook welded on the center of a bucket that has been worked harder than the bucket can support and has caused the bucket to bend. A bent bucket is like a smile with missing front teeth. It's the first thing you see at resale and it devalues the tractor before its time. The sides of my bucket are at least twice as thick as the Kubota's with doubled, welded steel. The top horizontal brace on my bucket is also at least twice that in size and weight of the Kubota. I have to believe the breakout force of the hydraulics will be met before any damage can occur to my bucket. It is massive. The Kubota bucket is narrow and pales in comparison. It looks like it belongs on a lower level tractor all-together. Same goes for the lift arms. Also, what’s with the idea of separate left and right brake pedals on the same side as the forward and reverse levers? As far as I’ve seen, Kubota does this with all their tractors. I don’t know, maybe I’m missing something that makes this a logical decision but at this point, I don’t know what it is. John Deere mounts their left and right brakes on the left, with forward and reverse levers on the right so that both feet can stay where they belong. Kubota has a couple things right. I wish my John Deere had the hydraulic disconnects located where the Kubota’s are, up higher and in a more protected place than down low, out in the open and susceptible to mud from the tires. Also, Kubota does a nice job routing their hydraulic lines inside the bucket loader arms. I wish John Deere did the same. I will mainly use my John Deere for mowing my lawn and snow blowing my driveway. I will probably buy a Curtis Cab when winter arrives. Occasionally I’ll use the bucket but most of the time it will be off the tractor and stored inside. I’ll encounter very little mud, mainly when I use the bucket and till my garden. For me, the issue of the hydraulic lines isn’t a big deal. For my intended purpose, I’m very happy that I chose to buy the John Deere.
Pros: It's green
Cons: Too early to find any yet
Model Year: 2011
After purchasing my new John Deere 2720 and using it for a few days, I stopped by my local Kubota dealer to take a second look at the alternative tractor I was considering, a Kubota B2920. It’s amazing how the differences between the two seemed so slight just a few weeks ago but now seem to be huge. My John Deere 2720 has 31.4hp, a 62D mid-mount deck, 200CX loader and 54” two stage snowblower. The spec’s for the Kubota rate it as a few hundred pounds lighter and at 29hp. It too is at the top of the Kubota 2000 series in hp, as is my John Deere 2000 series, with three levels offered as well. The difference between 29 and 31.4 is only slight. Speaking of spec’s, I decided after reviewing numbers for weeks that you can’t take actual hydraulic strength specifications from any manufacturer as gospel, as weights at lift points are hard to translate from one brand to another, some break-out forces have adjustments and I have to believe these numbers should only be used as a rough estimate. As an estimate, the tractors are not only close in hp but are close in terms of lifting capacities as well. Personally I prefer to look at the size of elements to determine for myself which is stronger or perhaps, which might last longer if both lift the same amount. I also look at fit and finish, paint quality and overall design. Under these parameters, the John Deere is far superior to the Kubota. The Kubota B2920 is considerably smaller. The hood height has to be 5” lower and probably 4” narrower. It is also smaller and lighter looking everywhere. Sure you save maybe 350lbs. of weight with the Kubota. But, the B2920 that I priced with the same attachments as my John Deere was $1,000.00 more than the John Deere. Comparing the two tractors side by side, I don’t see a single piece of the Kubota as larger in size or more capable. The ROP’s on the Kubota looks cheap, as do many other elements, built to the minimum requirement to serve its function. There is nothing wrong with that but why not get more if it doesn’t cost more? The John Deere ROP’s is almost twice the size of the Kubota, has better quality clevis pins and folding design. Same goes for three point hitch size, and almost everything else on the tractor as well. Bucket capacity of my top of the line 2720 bucket has to be 50% larger than the Kubota’s and probably weighs 50% more. I can’t stand the site of a hook welded on the center of a bucket that has been worked harder than the bucket can support and has caused the bucket to bend. A bent bucket is like a smile with missing front teeth. It's the first thing you see at resale and it devalues the tractor before its time. The sides of my bucket are at least twice as thick as the Kubota's with doubled, welded steel. The top horizontal brace on my bucket is also at least twice that in size and weight of the Kubota. I have to believe the breakout force of the hydraulics will be met before any damage can occur to my bucket. It is massive. The Kubota bucket is narrow and pales in comparison. It looks like it belongs on a lower level tractor all-together. Same goes for the lift arms. Also, what’s with the idea of separate left and right brake pedals on the same side as the forward and reverse levers? As far as I’ve seen, Kubota does this with all their tractors. I don’t know, maybe I’m missing something that makes this a logical decision but at this point, I don’t know what it is. John Deere mounts their left and right brakes on the left, with forward and reverse levers on the right so that both feet can stay where they belong. Kubota has a couple things right. I wish my John Deere had the hydraulic disconnects located where the Kubota’s are, up higher and in a more protected place than down low, out in the open and susceptible to mud from the tires. Also, Kubota does a nice job routing their hydraulic lines inside the bucket loader arms. I wish John Deere did the same. I will mainly use my John Deere for mowing my lawn and snow blowing my driveway. I will probably buy a Curtis Cab when winter arrives. Occasionally I’ll use the bucket but most of the time it will be off the tractor and stored inside. I’ll encounter very little mud, mainly when I use the bucket and till my garden. For me, the issue of the hydraulic lines isn’t a big deal. For my intended purpose, I’m very happy that I chose to buy the John Deere.
Pros: It's green
Cons: Too early to find any yet
JD 2720 - Reno, Nevada
Model Year: 2010
First time tractor owner so total familiarity not yet achieved but this unit does some nice work in the snow using a Frontier SB1154 and JD200CX loader. I just finished a routine service and found the tractor to be very straightforward and easy to work on. It appears to have excellent build quality with the exception of the foot platform, which, while seated seems somewhat flimsy. Fuel usage is reasonable while operating power seems very adequate for non-commercial usage. I really have no major complaints. One minor detail is the ROPS in the upright position seems way too tall. Is there a formula for how high these things should extend?
Pros: Power, size, & manueverability.
Cons: Price & foot platform.
Model Year: 2010
First time tractor owner so total familiarity not yet achieved but this unit does some nice work in the snow using a Frontier SB1154 and JD200CX loader. I just finished a routine service and found the tractor to be very straightforward and easy to work on. It appears to have excellent build quality with the exception of the foot platform, which, while seated seems somewhat flimsy. Fuel usage is reasonable while operating power seems very adequate for non-commercial usage. I really have no major complaints. One minor detail is the ROPS in the upright position seems way too tall. Is there a formula for how high these things should extend?
Pros: Power, size, & manueverability.
Cons: Price & foot platform.
John Deere 2720
Model Year: 2010
-62D mmm -200CX -61" Bucket (Chris Perry Forks on their way) -65" Frontier BB -5' Bush Hog (old and purchased at an auction, was "rust" -Now Green with Yellow stripes and Deere decals)
Pros: Outperforms larger/higher HP tractors of lesser brands.
Cons: Needs mid range for hydrostat; Not enough overlap in mower deck blades.
Model Year: 2010
-62D mmm -200CX -61" Bucket (Chris Perry Forks on their way) -65" Frontier BB -5' Bush Hog (old and purchased at an auction, was "rust" -Now Green with Yellow stripes and Deere decals)
Pros: Outperforms larger/higher HP tractors of lesser brands.
Cons: Needs mid range for hydrostat; Not enough overlap in mower deck blades.
JD 2720
Model Year: 2009
This is my second compact from Deere. I started with a 2320 which was wonderful tractor also, I just decided to up my HP. I would have gone to a 3320 or a 3520 but I had all the implements from the 2320. It's a very capable little tractor and does everything I need. No problems so far but I take good care of it doing all my own maintenance work and repairs. This time around I ditched the MMM and bought a zero. Besides the fact that I drove it into the pond (lousy on hills!) it's the way to go if you can afford it. You don't want a MMM if you have a back hoe, the brackets hit. Implements: BH 47" blower front blade ballast box loader front weights light guards (get them for the low cost, they'll save your lights) Yanmar PTO log splitter front forks (not Deere)
Pros: 32 hp, small size, hydro tranny, front PTO and it's a Deere!
Cons: None, hey that's why I bought two!
Model Year: 2009
This is my second compact from Deere. I started with a 2320 which was wonderful tractor also, I just decided to up my HP. I would have gone to a 3320 or a 3520 but I had all the implements from the 2320. It's a very capable little tractor and does everything I need. No problems so far but I take good care of it doing all my own maintenance work and repairs. This time around I ditched the MMM and bought a zero. Besides the fact that I drove it into the pond (lousy on hills!) it's the way to go if you can afford it. You don't want a MMM if you have a back hoe, the brackets hit. Implements: BH 47" blower front blade ballast box loader front weights light guards (get them for the low cost, they'll save your lights) Yanmar PTO log splitter front forks (not Deere)
Pros: 32 hp, small size, hydro tranny, front PTO and it's a Deere!
Cons: None, hey that's why I bought two!