trailer hitch hard to get on and off the ball

[ericm979]

The hitch on my wood splitter has always been hard to get on and off the ball on my UTV's hitch. I have to stand on the tongue to get the ball to seat and crank up the jack and push down on the frame of the UTV to get it to release. I have checked about 20 times that they're both 2". I've adjusted the clamp on the hitch loose and tight (but still moves a little on the ball when I pull up) and neither way makes it drop on and off the ball like the hitch on my UTV trailer does.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[2manyrocks]

Do you have another hitch to try with the ball and another ball to try with the wood splitter hitch?

My first guess would be that the wood splitter hitch could be bent inwards? ?

 

[bcp]

Maybe it was jack-knifed at some time in the past and the socket is bent inwards a bit.

Replace it. They are inexpensive and not worth the frustration.

Bruce

 

[BleedingOrange]

Maybe the receiver is stamped incorrectly. Try a 1 7/8 ball and see if that fits properly.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

There's a reason (okay, several) why I've switched all the bumper pull stuff over to pintle setups.

 

[4570Man]

There's a reason (okay, several) why I've switched all the bumper pull stuff over to pintle setups.

The junky stamped coupler wasn’t holding up on my wood splitter so I cut it off and went with a pintle ring. I purposely got the adjustable height one so I could remove it for extra security.

 

[Redlands Okie]

As posted above a slight Jack knife or other issues will mess these bail type couplings up. Usually it’s the sides getting bent. My opinion they are junk. I Replace them on any trailor I obtain. What I know as a bulldog style are hard to mess up or have come loose.

Bulldog style hood type

CURT 2-5/16" A-Frame Coupler with Sleeve-Lock (12,500 lbs., Black) 25227 - The Home Depot

This CURT A-frame coupler features a sleeve-lock latch and a solid neck for increased strength and security. It is made from hardy steel construction and has a durable carbide black finish to protect from corrosion, wear and tear. This CURT A-frame sleeve-lock coupler features a gross trailer...

www.homedepot.com

https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/9e3b7929-062e-4b13-bc8c-5e0b0f285fa3/svn/curt-hitch-accessories-25227-64_600.jpg

CURT 2-5/16" A-Frame Coupler with Sleeve-Lock (12,500 lbs., Black) 25227 - The Home Depot

This CURT A-frame coupler features a sleeve-lock latch and a solid neck for increased strength and security. It is made from hardy steel construction and has a durable carbide black finish to protect from corrosion, wear and tear. This CURT A-frame sleeve-lock coupler features a gross trailer...

www.homedepot.com

Bail type prone to problems

https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/735308e7-567b-41e4-b565-e3a3f9957f52/svn/curt-hitch-accessories-25100-64_600.jpg

CURT 2" Straight-Tongue Coupler with Posi-Lock (3" Channel, 5,000 lbs., Zinc) 25100 - The Home Depot

CURT Posi-Lock couplers are easy to operate and adjusts by tightening or loosening a simple bolt. This CURT straight-tongue coupler features a gross trailer weight capacity of 5,000 lbs. and a tongue weight capacity of 700 lbs. It has a 3" channel and fits a 2" diameter trailer ball.

www.homedepot.com

 

[ericm979]

Do you have another hitch to try with the ball

The UTV trailer's hitch fits that ball fine.

and another ball to try with the wood splitter hitch?

I think I have a 2" ball for the truck somewhere, I can try that.

My first guess would be that the wood splitter hitch could be bent inwards? ?

I didn't even think of that, this is why I ask these here. I got the splitter used and maybe its hitch got bent. I've bought some really well-used trailers before and never had a problem with the hitches, but maybe those were sturdier hitches.

I'm absolutely not switching the splitter and trailer and UTV to a pintle. That's way more work than this warrants. It would make them pretty theft-proof though!

 

[jmc]

Replacing the low cost socket is the practical thing but if you're stubborn, like me, take some shoe polish, paint pigment, or some other colored paste that won't dry soon, and coat the ball, stick it in the socket, and look for an abnormal contact position. Then decide if it's repairable.

 

[seville009]

I used to spray the ball and trailer hitch with WD40 - makes it much easier to both hook it up and later unhook it.