Shortening Rod on Hydraulic Top Link

[VTPSD]

Good Morning,

I have a hydraulic top link on my deere 5400. It is similar to what is shown here, but there is about 2-3 more inches of space between the end of the cylinder and the eye on the rod end. I would like it to be about 1.5-2" shorter so I can get a more aggressive angle with my box blade.

I am considering shortening the space between the non-used end of the rod and the eye (so it looks more like the unit shown here). I would be cutting it with a cutoff wheel and welding back on with my miller 211 MIG welder. Is there any reason that I can't do this at home? I think there is enough space on the end of the rod that I would not have to worry about damaged chrome.

 

[workinonit]

Obviously it can be done. It was done originally. Personally, I wouldn't do it, I'm just not that much of a welder. I would have also bought the correct one originally based on my OEM toplink. I'm a bit confused about the more aggressive angle. Shorter toplink = lower front and higher blade from the ground. Do you have multiple holes that the toplink can be pinned into on the tractor end? Maybe that is a better solution. BTW, my toplink is as you describe. I have a lot of shaft as well but I have ample stroke on mine.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Be sure that the rod is extended when working on the end.

Grind a good-sized bevel when prepping the ends.

Protect the chrome from any splatter.

Cool the rod starting up next to the seal and slowly cool.

Good luck.

 

[VTPSD]

Obviously it can be done. It was done originally. Personally, I wouldn't do it, I'm just not that much of a welder. I would have also bought the correct one originally based on my OEM toplink. I'm a bit confused about the more aggressive angle. Shorter toplink = lower front and higher blade from the ground. Do you have multiple holes that the toplink can be pinned into on the tractor end? Maybe that is a better solution. BTW, my toplink is as you describe. I have a lot of shaft as well but I have ample stroke on mine.

Yes, the tractor has 3 holes, but I still cant quite get the angle that I am looking for. I purchased a link from Agristore that was supposedly matched to the tractor and matched the original toplink. It is a bit longer, and that little bit makes a difference. When the box blade is tilted forward, the front blade digs in more and cuts harder, tilted back the rear blade levels material without cutting. I do driveways as a business, so this is the main reason I put on a hydraulic top link.

I am a decent welder, so I can probably pull this off.

 

[VTPSD]

Be sure that the rod is extended when working on the end.

Grind a good-sized bevel when prepping the ends.

Protect the chrome from any splatter.

Cool the rod starting up next to the seal and slowly cool.

Good luck.

Yes, I would plan on a good bevel. Thank you for the pointers.

I figured getting things perfectly aligned in this scenario is not as important since its not exactly a precise fit here, unlike a loader lift piston or something like that.

 

[zzvyb6]

How about moving the box blade top pin rearward/upward to require more length for a connection ? Or, extend the lower links by several different ways (new, longer parts, extendable links, quick hitch settings, ...).

 

[VTPSD]

How about moving the box blade top pin rearward/upward to require more length for a connection ? Or, extend the lower links by several different ways (new, longer parts, extendable links, quick hitch settings, ...).

I might be able to bore a second set of holes on the top link of the box blade, good idea. I'll need to look at that.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yes, the tractor has 3 holes, but I still cant quite get the angle that I am looking for. I purchased a link from Agristore that was supposedly matched to the tractor and matched the original toplink. It is a bit longer, and that little bit makes a difference. When the box blade is tilted forward, the front blade digs in more and cuts harder, tilted back the rear blade levels material without cutting. I do driveways as a business, so this is the main reason I put on a hydraulic top link.

I am a decent welder, so I can probably pull this off.

This is the exact reason not to match the OEM link. 50% of the time the OEM top links are wrong for the tractor that they are on. It is always best to match your conditions, not what the factory provides.

Again, good luck with the alteration.