My new additions (tree shear / puller)

ovrszd · Mar 13, 2016

Bill, I modified my puller so it can be used on the 3pt and/or FEL. Not familiar with your tractors 3pt ability.

I recommend pulling versus shear to avoid the stump issue as you mentioned. A shear should not be used on ground you plan to develop.

Rustyiron · Mar 13, 2016

Ken you'll find that the dryer the soil is, the easier it will pull out. (at least in my gravelly soils)
I use an excavator but I would expect no matter the machine, it would be the same. In heavy clay soils, the opposite might be true?

Wild Bill the 2nd · Mar 13, 2016

I have clay soil and I do find the opposite to be true. Too dry and a tree will snap off due to the concrete nature of the soil, nice and moist soil will let the root ball pull right out. This comes from experience clearing old christmas trees with the FEL. Could be different with hardwoods.

What is the technique with using these simple tree pullers? Are you limited to yanking them out and leaving them there or can you roll the bucket (shear) forward laying the tree down and dragging it backwards to a pile where you can easily use a grapple to pick them up and move them?

If moving them while upright I would prefer to add a small grapple similar to this

or this

although I would be afraid of a tractor easily tipping sideways since the front axle pivots. You'd have to be aware of the limitations and not be tempted to grab on to something that has too much weight up high. Saw this in my searches. Excavator Killed Using Skid-Steer Loader and Tree Shear Attachment

I really like the idea of this but since I have an open station I am very leery of them as well. I've been eyeing FOPS builds such as Rusty Iron's for some time now...

KenB2920 · Mar 13, 2016

ovrszd said:
I think you will get a LOT of use out of that tool!!!! Almost as handy as a Grapple. I question the framework being strong enough. If used hard I believe the swinging jaw will very soon not align with the stationary jaw. If so, then it will lose the shearing ability. On your tractor it may hold up very well. Sure hope so. In regards to shearing, with small trees you will have to develop a "soft" touch if wanting to pull a tree. Clamp too hard and it is going to shear it. This talent will probably develop with use. Mine doesn't overlap and I still sometimes grip a small tree too firmly and crush it to the point it pulls in two before the stump and roots are dislodged from the ground. We expect pics in use of course!!!!

Gosh that's the hope. I hope it's a handy asset that gets a lot of use in addition to my grapple and mulcher. I believe it's built pretty stout and over built for my tractor. I still hope you're correct and it doesn't work itself loose.

You are correct as well in regards to getting the feeling to no Crush something. I've since grown to become pretty sensitive with my grapple and hope this happens with this tool.

I'm pretty much on clay but plan to use the tool all over so only time will tell on soil conditions.

KenB2920 · Mar 13, 2016

ovrszd said:
Bill, I modified my puller so it can be used on the 3pt and/or FEL. Not familiar with your tractors 3pt ability. I recommend pulling versus shear to avoid the stump issue as you mentioned. A shear should not be used on ground you plan to develop.

This is exactly what I mentioned to Tim. I am also hoping to make this compatible with my three point. Being I have a hydraulic top link it should come in handy.

KenB2920 · Mar 13, 2016

Rustyiron said:
Ken you'll find that the dryer the soil is, the easier it will pull out. (at least in my gravelly soils) I use an excavator but I would expect no matter the machine, it would be the same. In heavy clay soils, the opposite might be true?

Many experiments to come

KenB2920 · Mar 13, 2016

Wild Bill the 2nd said:
I have clay soil and I do find the opposite to be true. Too dry and a tree will snap off due to the concrete nature of the soil, nice and moist soil will let the root ball pull right out. This comes from experience clearing old christmas trees with the FEL. Could be different with hardwoods. What is the technique with using these simple tree pullers? Are you limited to yanking them out and leaving them there or can you roll the bucket (shear) forward laying the tree down and dragging it backwards to a pile where you can easily use a grapple to pick them up and move them? If moving them while upright I would prefer to add a small grapple similar to this <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=460801"/> or this <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=460802"/> although I would be afraid of a tractor easily tipping sideways since the front axle pivots. You'd have to be aware of the limitations and not be tempted to grab on to something that has too much weight up high. Saw this in my searches. Excavator Killed Using Skid-Steer Loader and Tree Shear Attachment I really like the idea of this but since I have an open station I am very leery of them as well. I've been eyeing FOPS builds such as Rusty Iron's for some time now...

that's a much beefier unit but to answer your question it will take time and learning curves. Starting small of course

KenB2920 · Mar 13, 2016

Wild Bill the 2nd said:
I have clay soil and I do find the opposite to be true. Too dry and a tree will snap off due to the concrete nature of the soil, nice and moist soil will let the root ball pull right out. This comes from experience clearing old christmas trees with the FEL. Could be different with hardwoods. What is the technique with using these simple tree pullers? Are you limited to yanking them out and leaving them there or can you roll the bucket (shear) forward laying the tree down and dragging it backwards to a pile where you can easily use a grapple to pick them up and move them? If moving them while upright I would prefer to add a small grapple similar to this <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=460801"/> or this <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=460802"/> although I would be afraid of a tractor easily tipping sideways since the front axle pivots. You'd have to be aware of the limitations and not be tempted to grab on to something that has too much weight up high. Saw this in my searches. Excavator Killed Using Skid-Steer Loader and Tree Shear Attachment I really like the idea of this but since I have an open station I am very leery of them as well. I've been eyeing FOPS builds such as Rusty Iron's for some time now...

I do happen to have a cab (which naturally glass is always something to worry about ). Front axle is definitely something to take into consideration. However I don't think I'll be lifting too too much. Just what the tractor can handle until a saw is needed

C4Ranch · Mar 14, 2016

Looks sweet! Sooooo what brand is it and whT did it run? Looks well made to me.

My homemade one goes on my 3pt easy to see. Will u have any trouble seeing it up front?

Xfaxman · Mar 14, 2016

Based on my experience with a Cedar Tree Cutter and a Long Arm Tree Puller, I will be very surprised if it works well cutting or pulling.

For cutting, the blades are not sharp and there is no room for the trunk.

For pulling, it doesn't have the contact area to get a grip on the trunk.

ovrszd · Mar 14, 2016

I think you'll find a need for some rear ballast.

I don't see a gripping problem. The way the cylinder is setup it will grip very tightly. Leading to the issue of shearing when you want to pull.

Be aware that you will put stress on your FEL that it isn't designed for. Example being if you clamp onto a tree that you can't simply pull. Then you decide to reverse the tractor and try to lift and backup. Your FEL is being forced to "roll back". It's possible to bend the bucket cylinder rams.

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 14, 2016

I have done a ton of pushing and lifting with the bucket 1-4ft off the ground while using my tree puller. No damage YET to loader or front axle. I've found it quite surprising what I can pull!

ovrszd · Mar 14, 2016

Luke'sScreenName said:
I have done a ton of pushing and lifting with the bucket 1-4ft off the ground while using my tree puller. No damage YET to loader or front axle. I've found it quite surprising what I can pull!

Yep, me too. Over the past 5 years I've pulled at least 1,000 trees. Bent the rams on my bucket cylinders on my previous Kubota L4400 doing exactly what I described. Your results may vary. Can also be duplicated using a Grapple, but less likely because you are normally Grappling loose material and not trying to pull something. Just understand that the puller can put stresses on your FEL that can't be duplicated with a bucket.

Edit: Let me clarify, cause my explanation might not have been worded quite right. I'm not talking about "lifting and pushing". That puts "pull" stress on your bucket cylinders, which they are designed for. I'm talking about lifting and pulling backwards with the tractor. That puts "push" stress on your bucket cylinders and their ability to stand that is limited by the amount of pressure required to bend them thru compression. Totally different scenario and load.

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 14, 2016

No, you were clear. :thumbsup:
I went off on a related tangent. Belies my concern over damaging my loader! Lifting and diving forward is a big no-no according to some of the "experts" on TBN.

It has probably worn off for you but pulling trees sure is satisfying. (so much so that SWMBO always keeps an eye on me when I use the puller... I can get carried away. :confused3

ovrszd · Mar 14, 2016

Oh, do not misunderstand, I get GREAT pleasure from pulling trees. Especially Cedars.

Lifting and retreating backwards is when you'll bend your bucket cylinders. The "stuck" tree will cause your puller to curl upward, putting push pressure on the cylinders, which they do not like. The down pressure will give your tractor exceptional traction. Then things can possibly go bad.

Aquamoose · Mar 15, 2016

I've been trying to decide on which type of tree puller I should get, the "scissor" type or the "log splitter" type (with the ram & jaw against the SSQA). I have a tractor with a 2,100 lb capacity and want to pull out up to 3-4" pine & fir saplings. Which should I get? Do the scissor type work fine? I like the reach but I'm worried about the weaker capacity to yank them out of the ground.

ovrszd · Mar 15, 2016

Scissor type is easier to capture the tree. If the tree is pinched in the back of the jaw the load is very close to the FEL. If pulling small saplings I load deep in the scissor first, then get another and another until I'm pinching the last one at the outer end of the jaws. Might have 3 or 4 in the puller at the same time. Works very well in minimizing trips to the pile.

Luke'sScreenName · Mar 15, 2016

I have the large brado jawz and love them. I have never had a problem with the jaws slipping. The tractor runs out of lifting/pushing capacity first.
4-6" pine and fir are not a problem in my soils.
The jaws are 1" thick where they meet and do not cut even small vines and saplings.
I decide on the two jaw type because I thought it would be more forgiving if the tree was not perfectly centered on the loader. It is forgiving but have never compared to single jaw type.
If I were buying today I would look very hard at the new Danhoser (sp?) sold through EverythingAttachments.

Xfaxman · Mar 15, 2016

Aquamoose said:
I've been trying to decide on which type of tree puller I should get, the "scissor" type or the "log splitter" type (with the ram & jaw against the SSQA). I have a tractor with a 2,100 lb capacity and want to pull out up to 3-4" pine & fir saplings. Which should I get? Do the scissor type work fine? I like the reach but I'm worried about the weaker capacity to yank them out of the ground.

I like the "log splitter" type with the three point hitch brackets added so it will fit front or rear: Buckthorn Puller - Custom built Skid Steer attachments to fit almost any need you may have.