BIG CHUNKS OF WOOD TO MOVE

[frank_f15]

about 2 months ago i had a dead tree taken down, gave the wood to neighbor and he took all he could move, the rest was to big to lift and the ground has been to wet for me to get to it with the tractor . TILL TODAY /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif HAS BEEN cold enough long enogh for the ground to freeze at least enough to not tear it up. here is a photo of one ofe the chunks i had to move, i had to move them 800 ft to his house.

 

[frank_f15]

here is a shot of one peice i split by hand /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif only did one to hard on theses old arms, three wedges and a 16lb. sledge hammer.

 

[frank_f15]

oops forgot to attach the picture of the split log

 

[frank_f15]

this i how i moved the big ones , some of the smaller just fit in the bucket. 13 trips in all and as u can see the ground was frozen enough not to tear it up.

 

[PineRidge]

Frank from what I can see that looks like a pretty nice tractor. I'm assuming (god I hate that word) that you don't have a FEL? It would make short work of a moving project. A chain works too as you already know. You had a good days work.

 

[Golfgar4]

Mike,

I was thinking the same thing, but he said in the post that you replied to...</font><font color="blue" class="small">( some of the smaller just fit in the bucket. )</font> .

So Frank, how come you didn't use the bucket to carry the larger ones too? Could you have chained up the large ones and then lifted them with the bucket so that you didn't have to drag them? Or is it that it was just a lot easier to hook to them and drag them? If it wasn't tearing up the yard, maybe it was faster and easier?

 

[JDgreen227]

Got a point about safety, I just got a new RB and the manual has all kinds of warnings about fastening onto the frame and using it for pulling. Common sense alone tells me not to use an attachment in this manner, but to pull from the drawbar.

Yes, I know it's a bother to pull the RB so I likely would not either but I would at least keep the attaching point for the chain and the blade itself as low as possible to the ground.

 

[AndyMA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Got a point about safety, I just got a new RB and the manual has all kinds of warnings about fastening onto the frame and using it for pulling. Common sense alone tells me not to use an attachment in this manner, but to pull from the drawbar. )</font>

I went back and relooked at Frank's picture after reading this. I agree with the comments on keeping the hitching point low. Fortunately the ground looks fairly level. If the load had been heavier, or had snagged, with the way it was hitched, I suspect the front wheels of the tractor would have come off the ground. I understand why Frank hitched it that way, it kept the front edge of the log from digging in which probably would have been worse. I probably would have hitched it the same way. another way to move loads like that is to partially get them in the bucket lift about an inch off the ground and push them. Doesn't gouge the ground any more than pulling them. If you can 't lift the load, drive into the log with the bucket a couple of inches off the gfround and curled down so that the log goes into the bucket. Then curl the bucket up to lift the load.

Anyway, I bet the wife is happy to have them gone.

Andy

 

[frank_f15]

i do have a fel, and the fel would lift them, as none of these peices were more that 4 or 500 lbs. they were just to bulky to fit and it was easier to just hook them to the frame on the rb. as far as keeping the blade low, i did most of the time, just happened to take the pic with blade up, to help with the damage to the yard. and with the 3 pt high there was chance of digging in, causuing more of a problem. and i went slow. as far as lifting with the fel and chain, tried that ! was to hard to get the bal. just right. and with the straps when i pulled the straps got tighter and gripped harder. all in all at this time and for this job it was the best way to do it.