Will this end cap work?

[handirifle]

OK so I took my splitter cylinder apart today. Well, I just took the end bell off. So here is a link to and end bell that looks like mine and is same size.
http://www.agrisupply.com/grizzly-rod-cap/p/102121/
I measured mine and the piece of the cap that holds the O ring measures 3.98" and the rod measures 1.499", so I am assuming 4" bore and 1.5" rod. Are the bolt hole openings pretty universal?

Also since it's open should I order a new seal kit? Seems like it would be wise.

Will any kit for those sizes work?

Also in the end bell there is an O ring (for the cylinder), and what appears to be two seals for the shaft. The shaft seals are the lip type and appear to have a 1/4" thick metal spacer between them. Is this correct, or is it part of a seal?

Also appears the shaft seal on my pump is leaking too. Will I be able to order a seal for that too. There is a hydraulic shop in town, about 30 miles away, would they likely have the parts, if I give them the part number?

 

[LD1]

Whats wrong with your rod cap?

Hard to say if it will work, given made in china and all, but yes they are normally standard. But why replace the cap rather than just replace the rod gland seals in your cap?

 

[handirifle]

I forgot to mention, mine has a pinhole leak in the top. There is a divot in it, from what I do not know. I am considering welding it to TRY and seal it but most folks seem to think that is mission impossible.

 

[LD1]

I forgot to mention, mine has a pinhole leak in the top. There is a divot in it, from what I do not know. I am considering welding it to TRY and seal it but most folks seem to think that is mission impossible.

For the price of a new cap then, I'd get the new cap.

Its likely cast, so welding will be an issue, and will likely still leak.

Taking the seals out and brazing is an option though

 

[handirifle]

That brings another question to mind. How do you get the shaft seals out? IS that a spacer in there or is it part of a seal? Mine does appear to be cast. It was once I determined that, I started comparing prices on end caps.

I am going to call the local shop this morning and get their input/quote as well.

 

[handirifle]

I realize at 3000 psi (or even 2000) it doesn't take much but I cannot see where the leak originates from on the end cap. I see where it appears on the top, but everything that goes into the cylinder appears normal, to me.

 

[Egon]

It may be a casting inclusion? Best to replace it.

 

[handirifle]

OK called the local shop (only game in town) and he feels pretty much the cylinder is Chinese, so he has no parts for it. ????? Claims they are all different.

Maybe mabye not. Anyway I figured what the heck, nothing to lose, so I cleaned it on the grinder/wire brush as much as possible, and put the Mig to it. I left the shaft seals in cause I wasn't sure how to get them out without ruining them. I soaked a cloth in water and stuffed it in the hole to keep them cool. It worked cause I could handle the darn thing right after welding.

I hit the pocket with the Mig wire and also hit a couple other suspect looking spots. Re-assembled the cylinder and fired it up. No leaks!!!!!
Not yet anyway.

So I did some cleaning and hosed it off. Ran it again, and cycled a few times to test for leaks. There are leaks, but not where I welded. These are old leaks in old hoses I need to replace.

So I hooked it back up to the quad and towed it beside my pile of wood. Got it leveled and fired it one more time for a test. Motor runs fine, pump is spinning, plenty of fluid, yet NOTHING MOVES in either direction.

Either I have no pressure, or something (valve wise) is stuck somewhere.

Any suggestions?

 

[handirifle]

Forgot to add, when working the direction valve, there is NO CHANGE on motor sounds or load. Normally if there is a load against it the motor loads up. but nothing changes.

Not sure where to start looking. Could the pump have failed? It doesn't make any noises.

 

[Leejohn]

Make sure the relieve valve is not stuck open in the control valve.