Wheel Spacers for Trailer?? Opinions?

[CHDinCT]

Well, a few months back I bought a used 14' tandem axle landscape type trailer to haul my BX and to pickup the occasional load of mulch, topsoil, etc. The trailer was in decent shape but the first thing I did was re-wire it since it had some bad connections and the existing wiring was pretty worn.

Next up was doing something about the rust-through on the wheel well skirts. The original thin gauge sheet metal had numerous rust perforations. So, given I don't work well with metal (don't weld), I decided to cut some 1/2" PT plywood for new skirts. About half way through doing the first side it dawned on me I might not have enough clearance between the tire and the plywood skirt. After sanding, priming and doing some touch up painting, I fit the wood skirt and re-mounted the wheels. Darn if one rubs and the other doesn't. The rear wheel with the drum brake (brakes not hooked up), clears while the front wheel doesn't.

I called around to see if anyone carries 1/4" PT plywood, but no go. So, I started looking into wheel spacers and did find plenty to choose from, but no one gives much for spec's other than the number of lugs. Here's an example though you can find them for sale elsewhere.

Amazon.com: Mr. Lugnut Automotive Wheel Spacers

The hubs are 5 lug with 2.75" spacing center to center for adjacent lugs. I probably only need 5-10mm of extra space. Any thoughts on which of these would work, or do you think I'm playing with fire adding thin spacers to gain clearance? How about some heavy gauge washers?

Pic's of trailer:

 

[Willl]

I don't see anything wrong with using those spacers.

Got a real problem with the way those blocks are stacked though.

 

[Diamondpilot]

My experience with spacers is bearing wear. I would not use them but to each his own.

What I would do is chalk it up to experience and either put brakes on the other axle, really not needed but would solve the spacing issue, or have some sheet metal skirts made then welded in. They serve no structural duty so you could have about anyone with a welder tack them in. I would go to a heating and air guy with temp-lets to have the metal ones made then find a local mom and pop muffler shop and have them welded in. I would do it for free if you lived near.

I could get the skirts made for about $40 around here and another $20 to weld in if all fitted right and things were prepared.

Nice truck by the way.

Chris

 

[CHDinCT]

Thanks DP/Chris on the truck. It's new a few months ago. Had a 1999 Tacoma that Toyota bought back from me due to the frame rust issues. Basically, they make you an offer you can't refuse even though the truck ran fine and I wasn't really looking to replace it. Decided to go full size .5 ton this time around.

Anyway, one vote for and one against spacers. I pulled the trigger last night and ordered a set of 5/16" spacers. One thing that confused me was how you measure the lug pattern for a 5 lug hub. Apparently, you measure from center to center on lug 1 and 3, or basically not CTC on adjacent lugs. Once I figured that out, I "think" I ordered a set that should fit. Will be here today, so I should know soon.

I'm not too nervous about mounting these 5/16" spacers since I don't use the trailer too often. Guess I'll take the chance on the added bearing wear.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Here is how you measure.

wheel bolt patterns

Chris

 

[CHDinCT]

Yeah, I found a similar how to via google. Received the spacers from UPS late morning. The good news is it fits. The bad news is that it looks like I need slightly longer lugs. One thing leads to another. ! Guess I'll have to figure out how to remove the old ones and replace them with longer ones. Haven't even looked into that yet. Thanks for your help.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Studs can be removed with a sledge hammer. Then to put the new ones in I like to use a stack of washers and the stud and a lug nut to pull it tight in place. You just simply slide the new stud in from the rear, slide 6 washers or so over the stud, and then use a nut and a impact wrench to pull it tight. Just make sure you check them at 10 miles, 100 miles, then 1000 miles.

Chris

 

[Willl]

If you use the washers to pull them in, flip the nut over so your not using the 'cone' side against the washers.

 

[J_J]

Did you consider different rims. Some rims have different off sets. One of the wheels on my trailer is off set more that the others.

Add a nut to the stud, and smack it with a 2 lb hammer

 

[Renze]

how do your wheels center ? are they hub centered or bolt centered ?
If they are hub centered, the hub should extend as far as the spacer is thick... otherwise they will run loose quite easy...

What are you getting yourself into ? buying spacers, buying longer wheelnuts, taking the drums off to change the lugs, and perhaps taking them off again to change wheel bearings...
It shouldnt be so hard to get a local shop, or a friend perhaps, help you get some steel mudguards ?

 

[CHDinCT]

Wow, this thread is picking up steam and I thought it was about done. DP, Willl, J J, thanks for the info on removing and replacing the studs. Don't have a 2lb hammer, but I do have a 3lb'r :thumbsup:

K7LN, I did think about the possibility of wobble at speed causing rubbing but with the spacer on, I can see a good bit of daylight between the tire and the skirt. The axle with the drums had enough clearance without the spacer, but looking from underneath, it'll be close if the tire spins out of round a bit. Time will tell.

J J, before I'd spend money on new rims, then have the hassle of remounting the tires, I'd just find a shop to make me up and install new skirts. That would have to be less money I would think, but I'm down the rabbit hole now, so might as well keep going.

Renze, if I follow your question, the wheel centers via the studs or bolts. The hub is considerably smaller in diameter than the inside of the rim. Besides, the spacers fit snugly and are the same diameter as the hub.

Basically, at this point, I will measure and order new studs for both sides before I start on fixing the skirt on the other side. After that, might hook up the brakes and give her a new coat of paint.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Skyco]

Too late now unless you wanna start over but new sheetmetal pre-made fender backs are less than $10 each-

Tandem Fender Back - 18 Guage - Backs - Trailer Fenders - Trailer Parts On-Line Store | Nuera Transport

Shipping to me for 2 is $8.50, your location will be different. I've had great luck with the Nuera trailer supply...have bought a good bit from them lately for several trailer projects:thumbsup:

If you don't weld then you could pop rivit them in.

 

[CHDinCT]

Too late now unless you wanna start over but new sheetmetal pre-made fender backs are less than $10 each-

Tandem Fender Back - 18 Guage - Backs - Trailer Fenders - Trailer Parts On-Line Store | Nuera Transport

Shipping to me for 2 is $8.50, your location will be different. I've had great luck with the Nuera trailer supply...have bought a good bit from them lately for several trailer projects:thumbsup:

If you don't weld then you could pop rivit them in.

Interesting. Are these galvanized? or is plain steel the norm? Pop riveting is another interesting though. I guess I could send the wheel spacers back and eat the cost of the PT plywood. I'm sure I could find a use for the rest of the 4x8 sheet.

 

[travis potter]

Did you check to see if the axel is centered it could off center by a little and if centered you would not need spacers.

 

[Renze]

Renze, if I follow your question, the wheel centers via the studs or bolts. The hub is considerably smaller in diameter than the inside of the rim. Besides, the spacers fit snugly and are the same diameter as the hub.

I worked at a custom trailer shop where we used wheels of Iveco and Mercedes vans to get the lowest floor heights possible. We found out that we had to put 2 bushings over the studs to fill the space between bolt hole and stud, because the inner dual rocked between the brake drum and outer wheel, when the trailer braked. the outer wheel was held by the conical wheel nuts, but the hub centering wasnt enough to hold the inner wheel..
You can get into a lot of trouble with wheels, studs, etcetera.

Also, a guy that used to work at my company, way before i got there, had a Ford Granada with spacers, so he could use wide tires. More than once, he saw his rear wheel taking him over on the highway on-ramp because the entire axle shaft broke...
Same with a contractor around here, that has a tractor carrying a 3pt power harrow, air drill, packer combo. They used to have 18.4 duals under that tractor, but the offset weight caused the halfshafts to snap. They changed to 800mm wide rear tires to get the same footprint but with less offset. As long as they take bumps at walking pace, they are allright.
I would avoid wheel spacers at just about any cost. When talking 10 bucks per side, for me it would be a no-brainer...

 

[CHDinCT]

I decided to send back the spacers. Tried loading my tractor to see what would happen to the tire clearance. Drove around a bit and there was tire rubbing noise on and off, especially in turns.

So, change in plans. I ordered those fender skirts Skyco posted a link to above. I'll probably pop rivet them on as he suggested. I did look on line for skirts but the only ones I could find included the fender with it. Lesson learned - should have posted here fist before going the plywood route.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I decided to send back the spacers. Tried loading my tractor to see what would happen to the tire clearance. Drove around a bit and there was tire rubbing noise on and off, especially in turns.

So, change in plans. I ordered those fender skirts Skyco posted a link to above. I'll probably pop rivet them on as he suggested. I did look on line for skirts but the only ones I could find included the fender with it. Lesson learned - should have posted here fist before going the plywood route.

You made a very good decision. I would skip the pop rivets though, well maybe a few to hold it in place, but then have it welded up. Should not cost you much at all if you have it all prepared. I would worry about the rivets busting loose if you were hauling sand or mulch.

So did you end up going though all the trouble and money of changing out the 10 studs?

Just remember, if you are going to do it do it right.

Chris

 

[CHDinCT]

So did you end up going though all the trouble and money of changing out the 10 studs?

No, I changed course before ordering/buying new studs so I avoided that extra expense. I may have the new skirts welded in - will see - I do have a guy that does welding for me, but he's not exactly down the block. As far as mulch, etc., I made up some 2' plywood sides that I line the trailer with using U-bolts around the vertical rail members except for the tailgate. Works pretty good as I can drive my BX up the ramp and scoop most of the material off the wood deck.

Question for you DP, or others. Having taken the rear wheels off and seeing brakes mounted to the axle with two green wires sticking out the back side, am I safe to assume I would just need to wire them up to a 7-way plug in place of my 4-way? The brake controller came with the truck, so I think I'm good on that end. Anyway to test these brakes before I spend the time/money to wire them up?

The guy I bought it from said he had some "stuff" for adding brakes but when I picked it up, the "stuff" was at his office. He was suppose to get it for me but never called me back, so I didn't even figure it had the actual brakes on the back axle. Kind of a nice surprise.

 

[J_J]

There is an electric brake controller for the electric brakes. Some are manual, and some electronic. You have to set them up for the load you are carrying.

 

[Diamondpilot]

To test those brakes just hook up 12 volts to them... It does not matter which wire is positive or negative and try to move the wheel while jacked up. If you want to add brakes you will need a 7 pin plug, and a break-away kit, about $35. Very easy to do.

Chris